Xbox one 60 Hertz xl2720z questions
Xbox one 60 Hertz xl2720z questions
Hi, first of all i want to say great forum. Im french so bare with me for the writhing. I just resently purchase the xl2720z model following some advice on this forum about the blur buster application and AMA low trick. The thing is its kind of complicated ive read a lot almost every post. I simply want the less lag possible (instant mode on i guess ?) best quality picture (without increased input lag timing). So do i need the application or i just need to do the Ama low trick or maybe both ? Do i also need to play with strobe phase and vt tweak ? Just remember is for console gaming. Simple the less lag best picture without blur motion on since it add input lag. See displaylag.com for refference on that be i guess u guys all ready know all of that. Can u guys can just give me a best setting all around without going into to much detail best picture best input lag with no blure and tell me the exact step. Im also wondering once the monitor is set will it ever keep his setting if i change console or else and how u know ur still on amma low trick or strobe ect.. Im pretty visual so it would be nice to have a video teaching each step at a time . I also dont wont to add flicker or other bad visual with thoses trick is it possible ? I know im asking for alot and i tank you for ur timeand patience. Lastly i just want to add ive been reading a lots of post on here but i still need something more concret like best to do for gaming fps do this this and that anyways u get the point.
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Falkentyne
- Posts: 2795
- Joined: 26 Mar 2014, 07:23
Re: Xbox one 60 Hertz xl2720z questions
*Benq Service Menu / factory menu codes are here*
http://forums.blurbusters.com/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=2590
No, you do not need the windows utility.
For Xbox one, all you have to do is the following.
1) Open the Benq service menu and set Strobe Phase to 100. This will give you the same input lag as blur reduction off (lowest possible), with NO input lag penalty for blur reduction on. If you Never intend to use blur reduction then you don't have to open the service menu. But there are other 60hz monitors without blur reduction that give better overdrive without having to do annoying tweaks and toggles (the Benq matches them perfectly after doing these toggles listed below, however).
If you see my post here, http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/forum/YaBB. ... 1450870725 , after doing the toggles, the Benq's overdrive can be as good as the famous s23a950d.
Be warned that ANY service menu strobe setting change, ANY resolution change or changing the OSD monitor brightness level will instantly revert the AMA to default.
3) for blur reduction *OFF*, remove ALL inverse ghosting and overdrive coronas by doing a sort of complicated trick:
(it will turn your monitor from what you see in picture #1 that I linked here, into picture #2, although that was taken at 100hz, same rules apply. http://forums.blurbusters.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=2631 )
3A) set blur reduction on and do step 2 as above (set AMA to high AFTER enabling blur reduction or overwrite AMA high again).
3B) After setting AMA to low, you need to change into a preset (easiest with the S-switch remote) that has blur reduction disabled. Disabling blur reduction via the OSD will NOT work.
Doing this will give you literally perfect overdrive with blur reduction off.
You can use this test to test it in windows as a guinea pig until you get the hang of it.
http://www.testufo.com/#test=photo&phot ... &height=-1
I found some 60hz pictures so I can tell you what Xbox blur reduction OFF will look like before and after you do stops 2 and 3.
Before:
After:
I don't have any 60hz blur reduction ON + "AMA high" and "AMA low" pictures, however.
Due to how strobing works, there will always be SOME ghosting with blur reduction. AMA low will remove the inverse ghosting, however, which makes a big difference.
http://forums.blurbusters.com/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=2590
No, you do not need the windows utility.
For Xbox one, all you have to do is the following.
1) Open the Benq service menu and set Strobe Phase to 100. This will give you the same input lag as blur reduction off (lowest possible), with NO input lag penalty for blur reduction on. If you Never intend to use blur reduction then you don't have to open the service menu. But there are other 60hz monitors without blur reduction that give better overdrive without having to do annoying tweaks and toggles (the Benq matches them perfectly after doing these toggles listed below, however).
If you see my post here, http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/forum/YaBB. ... 1450870725 , after doing the toggles, the Benq's overdrive can be as good as the famous s23a950d.
2) For blur reduction, set AMA to high AFTER enabling blur reduction for lower "inverse overdrive ghosting (this is the 'AMA low' trick).My samsung s23a950d looked as good as your benq after your hack toggle
Be warned that ANY service menu strobe setting change, ANY resolution change or changing the OSD monitor brightness level will instantly revert the AMA to default.
3) for blur reduction *OFF*, remove ALL inverse ghosting and overdrive coronas by doing a sort of complicated trick:
(it will turn your monitor from what you see in picture #1 that I linked here, into picture #2, although that was taken at 100hz, same rules apply. http://forums.blurbusters.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=2631 )
3A) set blur reduction on and do step 2 as above (set AMA to high AFTER enabling blur reduction or overwrite AMA high again).
3B) After setting AMA to low, you need to change into a preset (easiest with the S-switch remote) that has blur reduction disabled. Disabling blur reduction via the OSD will NOT work.
Doing this will give you literally perfect overdrive with blur reduction off.
You can use this test to test it in windows as a guinea pig until you get the hang of it.
http://www.testufo.com/#test=photo&phot ... &height=-1
I found some 60hz pictures so I can tell you what Xbox blur reduction OFF will look like before and after you do stops 2 and 3.
Before:
After:
I don't have any 60hz blur reduction ON + "AMA high" and "AMA low" pictures, however.
Due to how strobing works, there will always be SOME ghosting with blur reduction. AMA low will remove the inverse ghosting, however, which makes a big difference.
Re: Xbox one 60 Hertz xl2720z questions
First of all tnx alot for ur fast anwser. So lets get this straight 1. No need to istall the blur program ? 2.lets say i don t care about the input lag, is the blur setting on AMA low trick is better then blur reduction of AMA trick in term of picture quality ? Or they just different picture and witch one do u suggest and for what reason ? Lets not forget the 60 hertz playing fps and fighting game. Cause thats why i baught it .
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Falkentyne
- Posts: 2795
- Joined: 26 Mar 2014, 07:23
Re: Xbox one 60 Hertz xl2720z questions
Um...your question is impossible to answer.
First, the windows utility was designed for 120hz refresh rate with a Vertical total tweak applied for blur reduction, however Masterotaku found out that Chief's recommended "earlier strobe phase" slider to the left is wrong. It should be LATER strobe phase on the left and EARLIER strobe phase on the right. I explained all of this in math detail in my VT tweak/AMA thread, but it's rather complicated.
Having "Earlier strobe phase" on the left in the windows utility will add 1 frame of input lag to your games.
The "later strobe phase" slider is designed for 120hz refresh rate (so the backlight doesn't turn off if you go too "far") but it is not suitable for 100hz or lower refresh rates, or if you are NOT using a VT tweak (the slider maxes out at strobe phase 047, and you want to use strobe phase=100 at 60hz refresh rate).
** THE WINDOWS UTILITY IS SIMPLY A FRONT END FOR THE SERVICE MENU **
The Service menu is MORE powerful as it allows you to use full range strobe phase of 1-100 instead of being limited to 1-47.
Single Strobe must be turned ON in the service menu for strobe adjustments from 60-90 hz.
You're asking is "image quality of blur reduction" better than the image quality without blur reduction?"
That's an impossible question to answer.
Blur reduction on LCD monitors will have crosstalk due to how pixel persistence and strobing works.
With blur reduction off, you will have ghosting of the image frame, but it will be blurry without overdrive artifacts if the overdrive is calibrated well.
WITH blur reduction, you will *ALWAYS* have SOME ghosting, because the frame that was 'blurry' with blur reduction off, will show the pixels that could not finish transition in time for the refresh to end, or pixels that were still in transition during the next strobe (a combination of ghosting and "Crosstalk").
By default, if you don't do *ANY* tweaks at all, the ghosting of blur reduction OFF is worse (more overdrive artifacts/coronas) than the ghosting of blur reduction ON. Blur reduction "on has an internal AMA setting that is activated when you enable blur reduction. blur reduction off has a *much* more intense AMA high setting than blur reduction on. This was a rather bad design by Benq to do that.
However you can "force" blur reduction OFF's overdrive setting to use the same internal AMA calibration as blur reduction ON's AMA setting, by changing from a profile with blur reduction "ON", DIRECTLY to a profile preset with blur reduction OFF, which bypasses the firmware using the "default" AMA calibration for blur reduction OFF. Instead of using what it was "set" to use by default, it uses the same internal AMA level that blur reduction on used (This is a bug in the firmware). But thank god it's a useful bug.
So...when you use the "AMA low" (this is not a bug btw, this is actually intended) setting for blur reduction ON (by setting AMA to high after enabling blur reduction), you can then force "AMA low" to be applied to blur reduction OFF, by first activating it with MBR on, and then switching to a preset (easiest if you saved it in the S-switch beforehand) with blur reduction Off.
That's how I got the perfect overdrive for blur reduction off.
Blur reduction ON won't have "perfect" overdrive with AMA low, due to how strobing works and pixel persistence work. The frame becomes crystal clear, and the contrast/brightness levels change also, so you wind up seeing the the pixel transitions left over.
You can lower the amount of "black to white ghosting" when using AMA low (WITH BLUR REDUCTION ON) by lowering the contrast from 40-50 (the recommended level) to 10-15. The whole point of AMA low is to remove the inverse ghosting/inverse coronas that occur from too much overdrive.
This isn't necessary to do with blur reduction off, because there is blurring of the frame anyway, so the image looks much cleaner.
BTW
doing the AMA low "double switch/toggle" for blur reduction off ALSO improves the massive, UGLY streaking of black on greys you get normally with blur reduction off. The default AMA settings for this monitor are simply horrible.
(And don't think the XL2420Z or XL2411Z is any better. It's almost as bad).
First, the windows utility was designed for 120hz refresh rate with a Vertical total tweak applied for blur reduction, however Masterotaku found out that Chief's recommended "earlier strobe phase" slider to the left is wrong. It should be LATER strobe phase on the left and EARLIER strobe phase on the right. I explained all of this in math detail in my VT tweak/AMA thread, but it's rather complicated.
Having "Earlier strobe phase" on the left in the windows utility will add 1 frame of input lag to your games.
The "later strobe phase" slider is designed for 120hz refresh rate (so the backlight doesn't turn off if you go too "far") but it is not suitable for 100hz or lower refresh rates, or if you are NOT using a VT tweak (the slider maxes out at strobe phase 047, and you want to use strobe phase=100 at 60hz refresh rate).
** THE WINDOWS UTILITY IS SIMPLY A FRONT END FOR THE SERVICE MENU **
The Service menu is MORE powerful as it allows you to use full range strobe phase of 1-100 instead of being limited to 1-47.
Single Strobe must be turned ON in the service menu for strobe adjustments from 60-90 hz.
You're asking is "image quality of blur reduction" better than the image quality without blur reduction?"
That's an impossible question to answer.
Blur reduction on LCD monitors will have crosstalk due to how pixel persistence and strobing works.
With blur reduction off, you will have ghosting of the image frame, but it will be blurry without overdrive artifacts if the overdrive is calibrated well.
WITH blur reduction, you will *ALWAYS* have SOME ghosting, because the frame that was 'blurry' with blur reduction off, will show the pixels that could not finish transition in time for the refresh to end, or pixels that were still in transition during the next strobe (a combination of ghosting and "Crosstalk").
By default, if you don't do *ANY* tweaks at all, the ghosting of blur reduction OFF is worse (more overdrive artifacts/coronas) than the ghosting of blur reduction ON. Blur reduction "on has an internal AMA setting that is activated when you enable blur reduction. blur reduction off has a *much* more intense AMA high setting than blur reduction on. This was a rather bad design by Benq to do that.
However you can "force" blur reduction OFF's overdrive setting to use the same internal AMA calibration as blur reduction ON's AMA setting, by changing from a profile with blur reduction "ON", DIRECTLY to a profile preset with blur reduction OFF, which bypasses the firmware using the "default" AMA calibration for blur reduction OFF. Instead of using what it was "set" to use by default, it uses the same internal AMA level that blur reduction on used (This is a bug in the firmware). But thank god it's a useful bug.
So...when you use the "AMA low" (this is not a bug btw, this is actually intended) setting for blur reduction ON (by setting AMA to high after enabling blur reduction), you can then force "AMA low" to be applied to blur reduction OFF, by first activating it with MBR on, and then switching to a preset (easiest if you saved it in the S-switch beforehand) with blur reduction Off.
That's how I got the perfect overdrive for blur reduction off.
Blur reduction ON won't have "perfect" overdrive with AMA low, due to how strobing works and pixel persistence work. The frame becomes crystal clear, and the contrast/brightness levels change also, so you wind up seeing the the pixel transitions left over.
You can lower the amount of "black to white ghosting" when using AMA low (WITH BLUR REDUCTION ON) by lowering the contrast from 40-50 (the recommended level) to 10-15. The whole point of AMA low is to remove the inverse ghosting/inverse coronas that occur from too much overdrive.
This isn't necessary to do with blur reduction off, because there is blurring of the frame anyway, so the image looks much cleaner.
BTW
doing the AMA low "double switch/toggle" for blur reduction off ALSO improves the massive, UGLY streaking of black on greys you get normally with blur reduction off. The default AMA settings for this monitor are simply horrible.
(And don't think the XL2420Z or XL2411Z is any better. It's almost as bad).
Re: Xbox one 60 Hertz xl2720z questions
Ok tnx again but its still a really good explanation. But at the end of the day from your knowledge AMA trick low with blur reduction of its the best for what i need ? And if it is what should be my contrast gamma and picture setting would be the best tnx alot
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Falkentyne
- Posts: 2795
- Joined: 26 Mar 2014, 07:23
Re: Xbox one 60 Hertz xl2720z questions
TBH, it depends on your eyes and what you think looks best.
If you use blur reduction OFF with AMA low, which I highly recommend if you don't use blur reduction (remember, which you have to toggle from blur reduction on AMA low) then use whatever contrast and brightness you want (usually 40-50 contrast, brightness whatever doesn't hurt your eyes).
With blur reduction on, you *always* use 100 brightness (with single strobe set to ON) then adjust "strobe Duty" to change brightness vs amount of blur reduction.
if you use blur reduction ON, without AMA low (that is, normal regular old blur reduction with strobe phase=100), then contrast 40-50.
if you use MBR on with AMA low, the normal ghosting is too high with high contrast since you lowered the AMA (can't explain why. All I know is that ghosting tends to be worse with high contrast with low levels of overdrive); contrast 10-15 works best.
Other settings are up to you.
If you use blur reduction OFF with AMA low, which I highly recommend if you don't use blur reduction (remember, which you have to toggle from blur reduction on AMA low) then use whatever contrast and brightness you want (usually 40-50 contrast, brightness whatever doesn't hurt your eyes).
With blur reduction on, you *always* use 100 brightness (with single strobe set to ON) then adjust "strobe Duty" to change brightness vs amount of blur reduction.
if you use blur reduction ON, without AMA low (that is, normal regular old blur reduction with strobe phase=100), then contrast 40-50.
if you use MBR on with AMA low, the normal ghosting is too high with high contrast since you lowered the AMA (can't explain why. All I know is that ghosting tends to be worse with high contrast with low levels of overdrive); contrast 10-15 works best.
Other settings are up to you.
Re: Xbox one 60 Hertz xl2720z questions
I think ill probably go with blur of ama low trick do i need to set the strobe phase to 100 or don t touch it at all at 60 hertz? Another big question are u sure there is no other input lag ? As it been tested with proper periferal to do Input lag test ? or its purely by math calculation and common sense ? Again your anwser are real informative problem with them is they hard to understand. It would be more simple to keep it "do this trick to optain this or that to optain this but the best for u its this" i hope u understand my situation since im new to all that and at the end of the day i would like to have the less lag and picture possible, and if its to complicated ill just go with regular blur off just to ensure the less lag possible. But it would be real nice to have nice picture with less ghosting and other stuff as a bonus so to finish all this i hope u can answer thoses few worries that i got. Last but not least when u set the monitor if u dont change nothing in the setting will the ama low trick stay on as long as u keep it ? And how to know if the trick is enable or not ?
so to finish all this i hope u can answer thoses few worries that i got. Last but not least when u set the monitor if u dont change nothing in the setting will the ama low trick stay on as long as u keep it ? And how to know if the trick is enable or not ?-
Falkentyne
- Posts: 2795
- Joined: 26 Mar 2014, 07:23
Re: Xbox one 60 Hertz xl2720z questions
I told you everything I can, already 
You're just making me repeat everything I already said before. Everything has already been answered clearly.
So I'll say it one more time for you.
STROBE PHASE=100 with blur reduction has NO ADDED INPUT LAG Compared to blur reduction OFF.
This gets really tedious....
You need to start testing these things yourself instead of asking me all these questions.
have you tested frame lag yourself? or are you just trying to ask me questions until I answer enough that its 100% clear for you without you even testing it out?
Here, watch.
Try http://www.testufo.com/#test=photo&phot ... &height=-1 o your computer with blur reduction at 60hz refresh rate (single strobe enabled, otherwise no strobe adjustments will work. You will have 60hz flicker from strobing however
).
Mess with the strobe phase setting and watch the crosstalk move.
compare strobe phase=000 with strobe phase 100. Watch the position of the frame of the UFO's and the frame of the vertical red bar.
Then hold down the blur reduction hot key (on/off) to repeatedly turn on and off blur reduction every 1/3rd second by holding down the on/off butt on on the monitors OSD, at strobe phase 000 and also at strobe phase 100.
If the UFOs move to the left <--1 frame when you turn ON blur reduction, then blur reduction will have 1 frame HIGHER input lag than blur reduction off (this happens at strobe phase 000).
This test is most easily done at 60hz since 60hz = 16.7 ms of frame input lag with vsync enabled (on any monitor, doesn't matter which). So if strobing added ANOTHER frame of input lag, that would be 33.3 milliseconds total.
if the frame position remains the SAME, then the input lag is identical between blur reduction on or off (at strobe phase=100).
on PC's, at higher refresh rates (like 100hz or 120hz) this remains the same formula (1 frame higher or lower input lag) but the maximum strobe phase you can set is lowered if you use a Vertical Total (VT) tweak. I listed all of this in my VT thread.
I'm sorry if you cant understand all of this quickly, but its all there for you. There's no point in me repeating everything that's already been said. You need to take your time and mess with things without trying to learn it all in a few hours or 1 day. To put this in perspective, it took me over a year to find all this information.
And I don't know anything else about reducing input lag besides a high strobe phase. I don't use a console. I don't know anything about them. I only write about how strobing works and how strobe phase and strobe duty work, and the overdrive/AMA tweaks I found out by complete accident.
You're just making me repeat everything I already said before. Everything has already been answered clearly.
So I'll say it one more time for you.
STROBE PHASE=100 with blur reduction has NO ADDED INPUT LAG Compared to blur reduction OFF.
This gets really tedious....
You need to start testing these things yourself instead of asking me all these questions.
have you tested frame lag yourself? or are you just trying to ask me questions until I answer enough that its 100% clear for you without you even testing it out?
Here, watch.
Try http://www.testufo.com/#test=photo&phot ... &height=-1 o your computer with blur reduction at 60hz refresh rate (single strobe enabled, otherwise no strobe adjustments will work. You will have 60hz flicker from strobing however
).
Mess with the strobe phase setting and watch the crosstalk move.
compare strobe phase=000 with strobe phase 100. Watch the position of the frame of the UFO's and the frame of the vertical red bar.
Then hold down the blur reduction hot key (on/off) to repeatedly turn on and off blur reduction every 1/3rd second by holding down the on/off butt on on the monitors OSD, at strobe phase 000 and also at strobe phase 100.
If the UFOs move to the left <--1 frame when you turn ON blur reduction, then blur reduction will have 1 frame HIGHER input lag than blur reduction off (this happens at strobe phase 000).
This test is most easily done at 60hz since 60hz = 16.7 ms of frame input lag with vsync enabled (on any monitor, doesn't matter which). So if strobing added ANOTHER frame of input lag, that would be 33.3 milliseconds total.
if the frame position remains the SAME, then the input lag is identical between blur reduction on or off (at strobe phase=100).
on PC's, at higher refresh rates (like 100hz or 120hz) this remains the same formula (1 frame higher or lower input lag) but the maximum strobe phase you can set is lowered if you use a Vertical Total (VT) tweak. I listed all of this in my VT thread.
I'm sorry if you cant understand all of this quickly, but its all there for you. There's no point in me repeating everything that's already been said. You need to take your time and mess with things without trying to learn it all in a few hours or 1 day. To put this in perspective, it took me over a year to find all this information.
And I don't know anything else about reducing input lag besides a high strobe phase. I don't use a console. I don't know anything about them. I only write about how strobing works and how strobe phase and strobe duty work, and the overdrive/AMA tweaks I found out by complete accident.
Re: Xbox one 60 Hertz xl2720z questions
Its okay tnx alot for ur time. I will do some testing with this
Re: Xbox one 60 Hertz xl2720z questions
Hey its me again 
got a few quick question 1. If i got firmware version 2 can i do the blur reduction of AMA trick or i need v3 4 5 ? 2.If i understand correctly setting strobe phase at 100 60 hertz with blur motion on will give me no additional input lag compare to not setting the strobe and get additional input lag with motion blur on ? Does strobe at 100 give a better picture ? If so what kind of benefit it do? 3. If i do the blur montion of AMA trick will it ever stay the same all the time or it reset after some time? And how to know if the trick is still active and not being off ? I tank you alot for ur response and it aint got to be long answer just straight to point its okay tnx alot 
got a few quick question 1. If i got firmware version 2 can i do the blur reduction of AMA trick or i need v3 4 5 ? 2.If i understand correctly setting strobe phase at 100 60 hertz with blur motion on will give me no additional input lag compare to not setting the strobe and get additional input lag with motion blur on ? Does strobe at 100 give a better picture ? If so what kind of benefit it do? 3. If i do the blur montion of AMA trick will it ever stay the same all the time or it reset after some time? And how to know if the trick is still active and not being off ? I tank you alot for ur response and it aint got to be long answer just straight to point its okay tnx alot