Re: XL2720z V2 + BB Strobe Utility = Greatest Gaming Monitor
Posted: 16 Dec 2015, 13:04
Turn off blur reduction and lower the strobe phase in the service menu.
The screen goes black because whenever the monitor is fresh from the factory or set to factory defaults (including after a firmware flash), the strobe phase is reset to 100. 100 strobe phase was the default (unchangeable) setting from V1 because a high strobe phase (e.g. 100 or max before backlight shutoff) has 1 frame lower input lag (equal exactly to the refresh rate frame time = 1000 divided by hz in milliseconds) than a low strobe phase (e.g. 000).
As masterotaku explained in his thread and as I explained in the "VT tweak/AMA" thread, there is a formula for determining the maximum strobe phase before the backlight shuts off. Please refer to that thread.
http://forums.blurbusters.com/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=2590
If you desire a high strobe phase, remember that the maximum strobe duty allowed to be used (before increasing strobe duty has no effect) is exactly equal to the AMOUNT OF POINTS remaining in strobe phase before the backlight cuts off. referring to the formula in my thread, you can easily calculate that with a VT tweak applied at 120hz refresh rate, where strobe phase 049 is the maximum phase and 050 shuts off the backlight, you can see that at a strobe phase of 044, the max strobe DUTY will be 006, as there are 6 values left of strobe phase before the backlight shuts off.
I also think you're confusing "AMA low" and "blur reduction off low overdrive" (which is equal to tracefree=60 on the Asus VG248QE)
AMA low is an undocumented setting for blur reduction *ON* where you set AMA to high after enabling blur reduction, which overwrites the default (too aggressive; too much overshoot) overdrive with a much lower value. This didn't work in V2 firmware (just made things worse than AMA premium) but this seems to have been intentionally added. This AMA low setting is very similar to how Lightboost looks on the XL2720Z, without the trashed colors of course. The 24" benq monitors naturally have much lower ghosting in LIGHTBOOST mode than the 27" monitors, as this applies to every 24" vs 27" monitor (including the Asus VG248QE vs VG278HE), but that's just referring to Lightboost.
The "Perfect overdrive" for blur reduction *OFF* is a bug in the firmware and is a true *BUG* (unlike the AMA low undocumented setting) and was never intended, but it's very helpful if you don't use blur reduction. Basically, if you switch from a display mode preset with blur reduction ON, to a display mode preset with blur reduction OFF, the overdrive level that was *CURRENTLY IN USE* (whether toggled to "Low" or not) used in blur reduction on, gets applied to blur reduction off, instead of the "Default" (too aggressive) overdrive that is usually used if you disable blur reduction manually.
All of the Benq monitors have FAR too aggressive AMA (overdrive) with blur reduction off, to lower the response time, but this causes intense purplish inverse ghosting and white ghost trails on black objects. The RL2455HM and RL 2755HM have it even worse, in this regard. Blur reduction on has its own default different overdrive setting, which still has too aggressive overdrive but the overdrive level is lower (you can see for yourself, there's a lot less white ghost trails behind dark objectives with blur reduction on but there are still inverse RTA artifacts). So if you switch directly from blur reduction on current/preset profile to a different preset with blur reduction off, blur reduction off will have a lower overdrive applied to it (which is a bug).
Now knowing that, you can combine the "AMA Low" blur reduction on toggle (which reduces the AMA of blur reduction on by about 50%) and have it "Activated" with blur reduction off, by switching profiles. Then you can get blur reduction off overdrive to look far better than any Benq monitor on the market, pretty much (it's a very drastic improvement), and almost exactly equal to Asus Tracefree=60 on their VG248 or VG278 monitors.
Anyway you're making the preset thing much more difficult than it is.
Just read my post again and it makes sense.
Just remember this:
When changing from a preset with blur reduction enabled to a different preset with blur reduction disabled, the CURRENT AMA SETTING in use gets APPLIED to the new preset dynamically (which is a bug you are exploiting). You can use the (undocumented) blur reduction AMA low setting and apply AMA low's calibration to blur reduction off, which is usually not supposed to happen, by changing presets instead of turning off blur reduction on the OSD.
And remember:
if you are using 'AMA low' with blur reduction ENABLED (setting AMA to high after enabling blur reduction), any change to brightness (but not contrast or gamma, just brightness), ANY strobe settings, or any refreshrate/resolution changes will revert the AMA to default.
If you are using the "profile switch" to improve AMA for blur reduction OFF, strobe settings don't matter and this time you CAN change brightness, but changing refresh rate or resolutions will revert the AMA again.
And the reason to use the S-switch is because it's faster. You could do the same thing through Picture Advanced ->Picture mode on the OSD but that takes longer.
---------
Input lag between VT 1350-VT 1500?
the same.
Just having a VT Tweak active seems to change the buffering of the strobe phase.
Look at the formula in the thread I linked.
Once you see how VT tweaks and the "60hz pulse widths" work and you understand WHY Strobe phase 050 shuts off the backlight at 120hz, Strobe phase 060 shuts off the backlight at 100hz, and strobe phase 048 shuts off the backlight at 125hz and strobe phase 071 shuts off the backlight at 85hz (ALL WITH VT TWEAKS ACTIVE), once you fully understand the math and this makes sense, then you can start thinking outside the box and realize something.
120hz is double 60hz.
60hz pulse widths is 0.167 milliseconds (60hz = 16.7 milliseconds equal to 16.7 divided by 100 = 0.167 ms strobe pulse widths)
Since the backlight shuts off at strobe phase 050 with 120hz with 60hz pulse widths (VT tweaks FORCE 60hz pulse widths), then you would EXPECT that WITHOUT A VT tweak, that Strobe phase = 100 should either shut off the backlight or make the maximum strobe DUTY = 001, at 100 strobe phase, right?
(masterotaku on steam mentioned this)
However for some reason, that's not how it seems to work. At strobe phase=100 (WITHOUT VT tweak), you STILL can use strobe duty 000-030 and have it apply at most refresh rates, which seems to break the formula which works perfectly WITH VT Tweaks. The formula not applying without VT tweaks seems to imply that there is extra input or processing lag added to allow all strobe duty values to work with a max strobe phase of 100. But when using a VT tweak, this gets cut out completely, which is why at 120hz, strobe phase=049, the only strobe DUTY value that works is 001...everything up from duty 002-duty 030 act the same as duty 001. So this seems to imply that even though a LOW strobe phase (e.g. 000) has a 1 frame HIGHER input lag than strobe phase 100 (or around the maximum with VT tweak), strobe phase 000 WITHOUT a VT tweak still has slightly higher input lag than strobe phase 000 WITH a VT tweak (it was chief blur buster who mentioned just using a VT tweak SHOULD also improve input lag slightly even if you are NOT using blur reduction!).
But you can test the strobe phase and input lag for yourself. Just watch the UFO's and watch how when you INCREASE The strobe phase from 000 to maximum, the UFO's move AHEAD 1 frame (to the right)--which means you are lowering input lag.
Then turn blur reduction on and off rapidly by holding down the OSD button. You will see that the frames between MBR on and MBR off are identical with a HIGH strobe phase, but the frame moves BACK 1 frame with a LOW strobe phase with MBR on.
http://www.testufo.com/#test=photo&phot ... &height=-1
If yon can't see the difference, try the test at 60hz refresh rate with "single strobe= ON" in the service menu, then adjust strobe phase and test rapidly enabling and disabling blur reduction. It will be extremely obvious.
The screen goes black because whenever the monitor is fresh from the factory or set to factory defaults (including after a firmware flash), the strobe phase is reset to 100. 100 strobe phase was the default (unchangeable) setting from V1 because a high strobe phase (e.g. 100 or max before backlight shutoff) has 1 frame lower input lag (equal exactly to the refresh rate frame time = 1000 divided by hz in milliseconds) than a low strobe phase (e.g. 000).
As masterotaku explained in his thread and as I explained in the "VT tweak/AMA" thread, there is a formula for determining the maximum strobe phase before the backlight shuts off. Please refer to that thread.
http://forums.blurbusters.com/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=2590
If you desire a high strobe phase, remember that the maximum strobe duty allowed to be used (before increasing strobe duty has no effect) is exactly equal to the AMOUNT OF POINTS remaining in strobe phase before the backlight cuts off. referring to the formula in my thread, you can easily calculate that with a VT tweak applied at 120hz refresh rate, where strobe phase 049 is the maximum phase and 050 shuts off the backlight, you can see that at a strobe phase of 044, the max strobe DUTY will be 006, as there are 6 values left of strobe phase before the backlight shuts off.
I also think you're confusing "AMA low" and "blur reduction off low overdrive" (which is equal to tracefree=60 on the Asus VG248QE)
AMA low is an undocumented setting for blur reduction *ON* where you set AMA to high after enabling blur reduction, which overwrites the default (too aggressive; too much overshoot) overdrive with a much lower value. This didn't work in V2 firmware (just made things worse than AMA premium) but this seems to have been intentionally added. This AMA low setting is very similar to how Lightboost looks on the XL2720Z, without the trashed colors of course. The 24" benq monitors naturally have much lower ghosting in LIGHTBOOST mode than the 27" monitors, as this applies to every 24" vs 27" monitor (including the Asus VG248QE vs VG278HE), but that's just referring to Lightboost.
The "Perfect overdrive" for blur reduction *OFF* is a bug in the firmware and is a true *BUG* (unlike the AMA low undocumented setting) and was never intended, but it's very helpful if you don't use blur reduction. Basically, if you switch from a display mode preset with blur reduction ON, to a display mode preset with blur reduction OFF, the overdrive level that was *CURRENTLY IN USE* (whether toggled to "Low" or not) used in blur reduction on, gets applied to blur reduction off, instead of the "Default" (too aggressive) overdrive that is usually used if you disable blur reduction manually.
All of the Benq monitors have FAR too aggressive AMA (overdrive) with blur reduction off, to lower the response time, but this causes intense purplish inverse ghosting and white ghost trails on black objects. The RL2455HM and RL 2755HM have it even worse, in this regard. Blur reduction on has its own default different overdrive setting, which still has too aggressive overdrive but the overdrive level is lower (you can see for yourself, there's a lot less white ghost trails behind dark objectives with blur reduction on but there are still inverse RTA artifacts). So if you switch directly from blur reduction on current/preset profile to a different preset with blur reduction off, blur reduction off will have a lower overdrive applied to it (which is a bug).
Now knowing that, you can combine the "AMA Low" blur reduction on toggle (which reduces the AMA of blur reduction on by about 50%) and have it "Activated" with blur reduction off, by switching profiles. Then you can get blur reduction off overdrive to look far better than any Benq monitor on the market, pretty much (it's a very drastic improvement), and almost exactly equal to Asus Tracefree=60 on their VG248 or VG278 monitors.
Anyway you're making the preset thing much more difficult than it is.
Just read my post again and it makes sense.
Just remember this:
When changing from a preset with blur reduction enabled to a different preset with blur reduction disabled, the CURRENT AMA SETTING in use gets APPLIED to the new preset dynamically (which is a bug you are exploiting). You can use the (undocumented) blur reduction AMA low setting and apply AMA low's calibration to blur reduction off, which is usually not supposed to happen, by changing presets instead of turning off blur reduction on the OSD.
And remember:
if you are using 'AMA low' with blur reduction ENABLED (setting AMA to high after enabling blur reduction), any change to brightness (but not contrast or gamma, just brightness), ANY strobe settings, or any refreshrate/resolution changes will revert the AMA to default.
If you are using the "profile switch" to improve AMA for blur reduction OFF, strobe settings don't matter and this time you CAN change brightness, but changing refresh rate or resolutions will revert the AMA again.
And the reason to use the S-switch is because it's faster. You could do the same thing through Picture Advanced ->Picture mode on the OSD but that takes longer.
---------
Input lag between VT 1350-VT 1500?
the same.
Just having a VT Tweak active seems to change the buffering of the strobe phase.
Look at the formula in the thread I linked.
Once you see how VT tweaks and the "60hz pulse widths" work and you understand WHY Strobe phase 050 shuts off the backlight at 120hz, Strobe phase 060 shuts off the backlight at 100hz, and strobe phase 048 shuts off the backlight at 125hz and strobe phase 071 shuts off the backlight at 85hz (ALL WITH VT TWEAKS ACTIVE), once you fully understand the math and this makes sense, then you can start thinking outside the box and realize something.
120hz is double 60hz.
60hz pulse widths is 0.167 milliseconds (60hz = 16.7 milliseconds equal to 16.7 divided by 100 = 0.167 ms strobe pulse widths)
Since the backlight shuts off at strobe phase 050 with 120hz with 60hz pulse widths (VT tweaks FORCE 60hz pulse widths), then you would EXPECT that WITHOUT A VT tweak, that Strobe phase = 100 should either shut off the backlight or make the maximum strobe DUTY = 001, at 100 strobe phase, right?
(masterotaku on steam mentioned this)
However for some reason, that's not how it seems to work. At strobe phase=100 (WITHOUT VT tweak), you STILL can use strobe duty 000-030 and have it apply at most refresh rates, which seems to break the formula which works perfectly WITH VT Tweaks. The formula not applying without VT tweaks seems to imply that there is extra input or processing lag added to allow all strobe duty values to work with a max strobe phase of 100. But when using a VT tweak, this gets cut out completely, which is why at 120hz, strobe phase=049, the only strobe DUTY value that works is 001...everything up from duty 002-duty 030 act the same as duty 001. So this seems to imply that even though a LOW strobe phase (e.g. 000) has a 1 frame HIGHER input lag than strobe phase 100 (or around the maximum with VT tweak), strobe phase 000 WITHOUT a VT tweak still has slightly higher input lag than strobe phase 000 WITH a VT tweak (it was chief blur buster who mentioned just using a VT tweak SHOULD also improve input lag slightly even if you are NOT using blur reduction!).
But you can test the strobe phase and input lag for yourself. Just watch the UFO's and watch how when you INCREASE The strobe phase from 000 to maximum, the UFO's move AHEAD 1 frame (to the right)--which means you are lowering input lag.
Then turn blur reduction on and off rapidly by holding down the OSD button. You will see that the frames between MBR on and MBR off are identical with a HIGH strobe phase, but the frame moves BACK 1 frame with a LOW strobe phase with MBR on.
http://www.testufo.com/#test=photo&phot ... &height=-1
If yon can't see the difference, try the test at 60hz refresh rate with "single strobe= ON" in the service menu, then adjust strobe phase and test rapidly enabling and disabling blur reduction. It will be extremely obvious.