Input lag and eSport. Every gamer should know this.

[Kvoordex]

Alright, i'm starting to think that not everyone is having the exact same issue, some people having a problem with some kind of stutter, some when only playing online. I'd like to show my exact problem because I'm starting to doubt it's from high dynamic distortion or routing issues. When playing CS:GO the feel of the mouse becomes slow and heavy and you just can't get any kills, the game sucks, but after you restart it if you're lucky the game could run perfect and you start fragging. I've been having this problem for over 5 months, or even more.
My question is: Has anyone tried turning off and on the monitor and notice any change in Input/Output lag? For me doing this fixes 90% of the problem, but only for a few games. at first I thought it was from my PC so I went extremely out of budget and build a new one, the game was running amazing for about 3 days. Then I made a post about the issue because I found a temporary fix for myself, some people said that it's from the monitor itself (XL2411P) so I trusted it and bought a new one (XL2746s) The only problem is, I have never experienced 240hz so it's hard to tell if I fixed the lag or not, I also went and bought a brand new Philips extension cord with some protection things, that didn't seem to do shit. I put my router and modem in another cord, because some of you said that could be the cause of the problem, when I did that my game seemed more ghosty, not smoother just weird. Could the problem be from using too many extension cords? I'm using electricity all the way from my kitchen because the one in my room exploded, so I have to use 2 extenders to connect my PC, monitor, router, modem, TV. Something makes me thing that it creates a delay.I'm not a professional or anything, i'm just thinking of any possibility that could be the cause of this problem.

[nuggify]

There might be difference with killing dwm, but what people talk about here is probably magnitudes or order higher lag.

Very much so. In fact when I have played at a fixed location, I literally have no desire to touch any of the DWM stuff. The difference is completely negligible compared to this issue.

[nuggify]

Ok guys. I was thinking about one more thing. the voltage in the electrical network. For example, in Japan, only 100 volts. Japan have this problem, does anyone know?
I watched Japanese streams, different games(multiplayer). Everything is perfectly smooth and synchronized with them.

You can try a 220 / 240v-100 volt step-down transformer. Modern power supplies in a PC can operate from 100 volts (this is written on the sticker)
Almost all chargers, monitor and console power supplies can also operate from 100 volts.
Can someone test this theory? Many of you have bought different equipment, have you tried a step-down transformer?

I have a few good quality step-down transformers, they do not effect the issues described here.

Grounding/earthing does has a noticeable effect though.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Earthing_system

The TT earthing system is used throughout Japan, with RCD units in most industrial settings. This can impose added requirements on variable frequency drives and switched-mode power supplies which often have substantial filters passing high frequency noise to the ground conductor.

In TN-S and TT systems, the consumer has a low-noise connection to earth, which does not suffer from the voltage that appears on the N conductor as a result of the return currents and the impedance of that conductor. This is of particular importance with some types of telecommunication and measurement equipment.

In TT systems, each consumer has its own connection to earth, and will not notice any currents that may be caused by other consumers on a shared PE line.

Appliances in Japan must comply with PSE law, and building wiring uses TT earthing in most installations.

I think Japan has quite high quality standards for major things like power and roads, so these issues might not be as noticeable.

Now this is interesting discussion right here. However I think its important to note the differences between the "grounded conductor" (neutral return path- where the noise should travel) and the "grounding conductor" (earth ground/safety ground). The interesting thing is that people with our issue that installed a new earth ground rod with sufficiently low resistance have seemed to achieve some results as far as the problem is concerned.

How harmonic distortion affects all this I am not sure.

[Kvoordex]

lol

[dendu]

Now this is interesting discussion right here. However I think its important to note the differences between the "grounded conductor" (neutral return path- where the noise should travel) and the "grounding conductor" (earth ground/safety ground). The interesting thing is that people with our issue that installed a new earth ground rod with sufficiently low resistance have seemed to achieve some results as far as the problem is concerned.

How harmonic distortion affects all this I am not sure.

https://www.electrical-installation.org ... _harmonics

TNS system
This system is recommended if harmonics are present.
The neutral conductor and the protection conductor PE are completely separate and the potential throughout the distribution network is therefore more uniform.

https://www.electrical-installation.org ... IT_systems

In addition, the TN-C system:
At first glance, would appear to be less expensive (elimination of a device pole and of a conductor)
Requires the use of fixed and rigid conductors
Is forbidden in certain cases:
Premises with a risk of fire
For computer equipment (presence of harmonic currents in the neutral)

In addition, the TN-S system:
May be used even with flexible conductors and small conduits
Due to the separation of the neutral and the protection conductor, provides a clean PE (computer systems and premises with special risks)

After you mentioned that another(Ashr) didn't tie ground to neutral, and I came across the links above(ty NiyuMiya), I tried not connecting neutral to ground. This made things work better and even more consistently.

Since my conditioner has a jumper(green wire) to bond the two, i assumed it was the ideal setup and didn't bother to test unconnected:

Many of you have bought different equipment, have you tried a step-down transformer?

A step-down transformer doesn't help directly, but it did help with observing the problem, so thanks for mentioning it.

I made a crude sound card oscilloscope, but couldn't test AC mains, because of its relatively high voltage. But it is possible to connect/chain multiple transformers and lower the voltage down to something more reasonable:

With four of them chained, I could step-down from (240v->120) (120->60) (60->30) (30->15v).

https://makezine.com/projects/sound-card-oscilloscope/
I followed this site's example:


It says neutral and ground not bonded, but even with the two bonded or the ground floating/lifted while measuring hot and neutral, all look similar:



It says hot to ground, but neutral to ground displays nearly the same:



EDIT: These graphs below are not correct
Same as before, neutral to ground similar readings, however with the neutral and ground bonded it makes the wave clip, and the frequency hits really high relatively(check the magnitude):



EDIT: After reading instructions closer, this is why the wave is flattening out:

This occurs when you turn the potentiometer up too much and the diodes start conducting. It's typically called waveform clipping. If you notice waveform clipping, simply dial back the potentiometer until the waveform is corrected i.e. peaks of the sine wave are not flattening out.

This is what neutral and ground bonded looks like with the potentiometer adjusted:


This is from the house circuit, so right now I have no idea why neutral not bonded to ground works/feels better.

Keep in mind I don't really understand what is going on theory-wise or if i'm measuring correctly or testing the right thing, just trial and error to try and highlight the differences.

[dendu]

Could the problem be from using too many extension cords? I'm using electricity all the way from my kitchen because the one in my room exploded, so I have to use 2 extenders to connect my PC, monitor, router, modem, TV.

This sounds like a worse case scenario if you can believe electrical issues might cause problems with computer usage. I would try temporarily setting up your computer somewhere near a good outlet and just connect your monitor and computer to one extension cord and have the rest of the devices on another. If things improve, then it is advisable to have an electrician diagnose and fix the exploded one, maybe also ask to test/upgrade grounding system to improve things further.

[Bobo]

If you got the time and resources, try this.

1: Keep your PC & Monitor isolated from everything else. Use a power strip only for them and make sure that it`s connected directly to the wall.
2: Get better power cables for them, something like Supra Lorad which can be found quite cheap.
3: If you want to use a UPS, make sure you get a powerful one (Cyberpower PR1500ELCDRTXL2U) and that it has a Pure Sinewave.
4: If you got the money, get yourself a Power Regenerator and use that just for your PC and Monitor.
5: Try an usb filter and see if that makes some improvements: IFI Nano iGalvanic, Uptone ISO REGEN, Wyred 4 Sound Recovery, AudioQuest Jitterbug, IFI iPurifier3

[Mylliah]

I have been having stuttering, mouse inconsistencies, etc for a while, after searching and testing a lot of fix, what helped me the most was:

1)Aulterra Whole House USB https://aulterra.com/product/whole-house-usb/
Having 10 of them on my computer, 2 of them on my monitor, 1 on my modem, 5 of them on my Cyberpower UPS (2 through the usb port, 3 from the standard power outlet of the ups with usb adapter), 18 of them on my electrical network with adapter.
It has no downside except the price!

2)Greenwave Dirty Electricity https://greenwavefilters.com/ https://www.amazon.com/Greenwave-Dirty- ... B01M5C90XV
Have some but can't use them because it dissipate the dirty electricity it filters around the filters so you have to put the filters far away from conductive materials, and I don't have room to use them so because everywhere I have outlet, there's either metallic pipe, heater, washing machine, modem, computer, but I link it because, seeing the comment on amazon, it seems very effective when you can use them.

3)Removed most of the conductive materials from my home that I could & all the useless thing from inside the computer (like cable audio cable going to the front I/O of the case that I don't use ) or changing my SATA SSD to M2 NVME SSD so there's no more cable!

4)I make sure that most of the cables are shielded, and you should look for the best shielding you can, like the Ugreen TRIPLE shielding display port. https://www.befr.ebay.be/itm/Ugreen-DP- ... 2749.l2649

5)I make sure that my computer use the less watt It can, I saw that the most watt my computer use, the more the stuttering, the mouse inconsistencise are strong! So I change CPU,GPU each generation for better performance by watt, and lock my fps at 60/100hz (100hz for when I use DYAC) @1080p and use tweak to reduce heavily input lag so 60Hz become acceptable!

6)Make sure that your GPU has a backplate that have the less holes you can find in it, the backplate act like a shield, and so reduce the upper part component like cpu & ram electromagnetic radiation to interfere with the gpu and lower parts of the motherboard.
Card like https://www.omgpu.com/wp-content/upload ... te-top.jpg is a card that I would tell you to ABSOLUTELY STAY AWAY!!!

7)All wireless controller emit wifi/bluetooth, and so the wireless frequency goes through the cable, and through all the component inside your computer and create interference, either use a wired controller like the 360 if you want to use a controller, or find a way to disable the wireless component of the controller.

8)The cable must be the minimum length, make sure all of you cable touch themselves the less possible. Do not wrap the cable!

9)Make sure your monitor, computer case are far away from each other!

10)Make sure you deactivate all the useless thing you don't use in your motherboard!

11)I've put aluminium on my case, and grounded it, my monitor stand is grounded too.

12)Some might say it's quack, but I use shungite pyramid at key position, like between my monitor and my case, between the monitor and the keyboard, between the heather and the computer, it reduce issues for me!

Each of these point made the issues less and less strong, like by 70% with all those points combined.
The only thing that left me to do is to move out from my actual home because it is too polluted, even if you filters all the dirty electricty, your case, monitor, cable (even shielded) act like a conductor for the wireless, and it goes through the computer and create interference...

By the way, sorry for my english, I'm belgian!

Hope it will help people that have theses issues!

[RamenRider]

Telling you right now. The #1 cause of input lag for most people is Windows Desktop Rendering. Windows is shit. viewtopic.php?f=10&t=7168

dmw killer helo

Is there a DWM killer for 20.04? If so then speak up.

[Unixko]

I have been having stuttering, mouse inconsistencies, etc for a while, after searching and testing a lot of fix, what helped me the most was:

1)Aulterra Whole House USB https://aulterra.com/product/whole-house-usb/
Having 10 of them on my computer, 2 of them on my monitor, 1 on my modem, 5 of them on my Cyberpower UPS (2 through the usb port, 3 from the standard power outlet of the ups with usb adapter), 18 of them on my electrical network with adapter.
It has no downside except the price!

2)Greenwave Dirty Electricity https://greenwavefilters.com/ https://www.amazon.com/Greenwave-Dirty- ... B01M5C90XV
Have some but can't use them because it dissipate the dirty electricity it filters around the filters so you have to put the filters far away from conductive materials, and I don't have room to use them so because everywhere I have outlet, there's either metallic pipe, heater, washing machine, modem, computer, but I link it because, seeing the comment on amazon, it seems very effective when you can use them.

3)Removed most of the conductive materials from my home that I could & all the useless thing from inside the computer (like cable audio cable going to the front I/O of the case that I don't use ) or changing my SATA SSD to M2 NVME SSD so there's no more cable!

4)I make sure that most of the cables are shielded, and you should look for the best shielding you can, like the Ugreen TRIPLE shielding display port. https://www.befr.ebay.be/itm/Ugreen-DP- ... 2749.l2649

5)I make sure that my computer use the less watt It can, I saw that the most watt my computer use, the more the stuttering, the mouse inconsistencise are strong! So I change CPU,GPU each generation for better performance by watt, and lock my fps at 60/100hz (100hz for when I use DYAC) @1080p and use tweak to reduce heavily input lag so 60Hz become acceptable!

6)Make sure that your GPU has a backplate that have the less holes you can find in it, the backplate act like a shield, and so reduce the upper part component like cpu & ram electromagnetic radiation to interfere with the gpu and lower parts of the motherboard.
Card like https://www.omgpu.com/wp-content/upload ... te-top.jpg is a card that I would tell you to ABSOLUTELY STAY AWAY!!!

7)All wireless controller emit wifi/bluetooth, and so the wireless frequency goes through the cable, and through all the component inside your computer and create interference, either use a wired controller like the 360 if you want to use a controller, or find a way to disable the wireless component of the controller.

8)The cable must be the minimum length, make sure all of you cable touch themselves the less possible. Do not wrap the cable!

9)Make sure your monitor, computer case are far away from each other!

10)Make sure you deactivate all the useless thing you don't use in your motherboard!

11)I've put aluminium on my case, and grounded it, my monitor stand is grounded too.

12)Some might say it's quack, but I use shungite pyramid at key position, like between my monitor and my case, between the monitor and the keyboard, between the heather and the computer, it reduce issues for me!

Each of these point made the issues less and less strong, like by 70% with all those points combined.
The only thing that left me to do is to move out from my actual home because it is too polluted, even if you filters all the dirty electricty, your case, monitor, cable (even shielded) act like a conductor for the wireless, and it goes through the computer and create interference...

By the way, sorry for my english, I'm belgian!

Hope it will help people that have theses issues!

18 of them on my electrical network with adapter.
It has no downside except the price! screenshot thanks