Input Lag / Desync only on one computer

[akylen]

it could be the logical reason indeed, I thought about it, suddenly it would confirm that it may come from electricity, after how to solve the problem, I don't see too much, but it seems to be a track to investigate.

I highly doubt it's 'electrical.' You yourself already said your old PC works fine but new one does not. If it were electrical, both PC(s) would be affected. Also, your old PC is is running off an architecture from over 10 years ago that employed far less power saving features compared to today's boards/cpus.

Can you detail what you disabled in your bios, if anything? Speedstep, eist, C-states, thermal monitor should all be disabled in your bios. If they aren't, you'll experience throttling in games which will result in stutters, lag, etc. As for your memory, are you running in Gear 1 or Gear 2 mode? Gear 2 will cut your IMC (Memory Controller) freq in half which could result in an 'input lag' like feel. Gear 1 is ideal.

Have you done the basics like test your thermals? Thermal throttling is also very common which results in your CPU aggressively downclocking itself on the fly which also results in stutters, input lag, etc. I don't know what your settings are but but on the 10700k the max turbo is 5.1GHZ. Are all of your turbo settings on auto or did you set a fixed clock w/ fixed voltage? Either way, you want to test your thermals by running something like cinebench or prime95. Cinebench is probably better to use because prime95 puts unrealistic strains on your system. Run HWINFO64 to monitor your thermals, clocks, throttling while running cinebench. You'll know right away if your system is being throttled if your frequency starts dropping. If it does, then you know you have a thermal related issue which needs to be resolved.

By electricity, I mean maybe the old pc consumes less and may have a correlation with electricity because the new pc consumes more, something like that, I don't know much about it.

As for the settings in the bios, I haven't touched anything, everything is by default on both PCs.

[kokkatc]

it could be the logical reason indeed, I thought about it, suddenly it would confirm that it may come from electricity, after how to solve the problem, I don't see too much, but it seems to be a track to investigate.

I highly doubt it's 'electrical.' You yourself already said your old PC works fine but new one does not. If it were electrical, both PC(s) would be affected. Also, your old PC is is running off an architecture from over 10 years ago that employed far less power saving features compared to today's boards/cpus.

Can you detail what you disabled in your bios, if anything? Speedstep, eist, C-states, thermal monitor should all be disabled in your bios. If they aren't, you'll experience throttling in games which will result in stutters, lag, etc. As for your memory, are you running in Gear 1 or Gear 2 mode? Gear 2 will cut your IMC (Memory Controller) freq in half which could result in an 'input lag' like feel. Gear 1 is ideal.

Have you done the basics like test your thermals? Thermal throttling is also very common which results in your CPU aggressively downclocking itself on the fly which also results in stutters, input lag, etc. I don't know what your settings are but but on the 10700k the max turbo is 5.1GHZ. Are all of your turbo settings on auto or did you set a fixed clock w/ fixed voltage? Either way, you want to test your thermals by running something like cinebench or prime95. Cinebench is probably better to use because prime95 puts unrealistic strains on your system. Run HWINFO64 to monitor your thermals, clocks, throttling while running cinebench. You'll know right away if your system is being throttled if your frequency starts dropping. If it does, then you know you have a thermal related issue which needs to be resolved.

By electricity, I mean maybe the old pc consumes less and may have a correlation with electricity because the new pc consumes more, something like that, I don't know much about it.

As for the settings in the bios, I haven't touched anything, everything is by default on both PCs.

It looks like I originally responded to your thread on 12/2/21 and you responded that you tried the things I suggested but now you're saying you haven't touched anything and both systems are at default. I already mentioned the things that could help you create a baseline to work off of. If you're interested in that you can find my previous comment I'm this thread.

The fact of the matter is that if you're unwilling to create a solid baseline to work off of, you'll always experience this issue with your new system. Default settings on a 10 year old CPU/mobo is not the same as default settings on a modern system that employs far more energy saving features enabled by default.

[akylen]

it could be the logical reason indeed, I thought about it, suddenly it would confirm that it may come from electricity, after how to solve the problem, I don't see too much, but it seems to be a track to investigate.

I highly doubt it's 'electrical.' You yourself already said your old PC works fine but new one does not. If it were electrical, both PC(s) would be affected. Also, your old PC is is running off an architecture from over 10 years ago that employed far less power saving features compared to today's boards/cpus.

Can you detail what you disabled in your bios, if anything? Speedstep, eist, C-states, thermal monitor should all be disabled in your bios. If they aren't, you'll experience throttling in games which will result in stutters, lag, etc. As for your memory, are you running in Gear 1 or Gear 2 mode? Gear 2 will cut your IMC (Memory Controller) freq in half which could result in an 'input lag' like feel. Gear 1 is ideal.

Have you done the basics like test your thermals? Thermal throttling is also very common which results in your CPU aggressively downclocking itself on the fly which also results in stutters, input lag, etc. I don't know what your settings are but but on the 10700k the max turbo is 5.1GHZ. Are all of your turbo settings on auto or did you set a fixed clock w/ fixed voltage? Either way, you want to test your thermals by running something like cinebench or prime95. Cinebench is probably better to use because prime95 puts unrealistic strains on your system. Run HWINFO64 to monitor your thermals, clocks, throttling while running cinebench. You'll know right away if your system is being throttled if your frequency starts dropping. If it does, then you know you have a thermal related issue which needs to be resolved.

By electricity, I mean maybe the old pc consumes less and may have a correlation with electricity because the new pc consumes more, something like that, I don't know much about it.

As for the settings in the bios, I haven't touched anything, everything is by default on both PCs.

It looks like I originally responded to your thread on 12/2/21 and you responded that you tried the things I suggested but now you're saying you haven't touched anything and both systems are at default. I already mentioned the things that could help you create a baseline to work off of. If you're interested in that you can find my previous comment I'm this thread.

The fact of the matter is that if you're unwilling to create a solid baseline to work off of, you'll always experience this issue with your new system. Default settings on a 10 year old CPU/mobo is not the same as default settings on a modern system that employs far more energy saving features enabled by default.

It's not because my settings are by default today that I haven't tested your settings, what you mentioned, I've already tested them, but once tested, it makes sense for me to put the settings by default , since it didn't change anything, it makes sense to me.

[MegaMelmek]

I stand behind akylen. (his issue looks similar to mine) What he says make total sense. If default BIOS setup on 10y old PC is outperform new default setup PC then what is wrong?
Why even tweek it if its not able to do it by default?

Ryzen master says 75W TDP max and thats by default. Before all this begin a was using i7 7700 and GTX1060 Z270 MSI, never touch BIOS settings…
Not 500FPS but the handling was insane…

[kokkatc]

I highly doubt it's 'electrical.' You yourself already said your old PC works fine but new one does not. If it were electrical, both PC(s) would be affected. Also, your old PC is is running off an architecture from over 10 years ago that employed far less power saving features compared to today's boards/cpus.

Can you detail what you disabled in your bios, if anything? Speedstep, eist, C-states, thermal monitor should all be disabled in your bios. If they aren't, you'll experience throttling in games which will result in stutters, lag, etc. As for your memory, are you running in Gear 1 or Gear 2 mode? Gear 2 will cut your IMC (Memory Controller) freq in half which could result in an 'input lag' like feel. Gear 1 is ideal.

Have you done the basics like test your thermals? Thermal throttling is also very common which results in your CPU aggressively downclocking itself on the fly which also results in stutters, input lag, etc. I don't know what your settings are but but on the 10700k the max turbo is 5.1GHZ. Are all of your turbo settings on auto or did you set a fixed clock w/ fixed voltage? Either way, you want to test your thermals by running something like cinebench or prime95. Cinebench is probably better to use because prime95 puts unrealistic strains on your system. Run HWINFO64 to monitor your thermals, clocks, throttling while running cinebench. You'll know right away if your system is being throttled if your frequency starts dropping. If it does, then you know you have a thermal related issue which needs to be resolved.

By electricity, I mean maybe the old pc consumes less and may have a correlation with electricity because the new pc consumes more, something like that, I don't know much about it.

As for the settings in the bios, I haven't touched anything, everything is by default on both PCs.

It looks like I originally responded to your thread on 12/2/21 and you responded that you tried the things I suggested but now you're saying you haven't touched anything and both systems are at default. I already mentioned the things that could help you create a baseline to work off of. If you're interested in that you can find my previous comment I'm this thread.

The fact of the matter is that if you're unwilling to create a solid baseline to work off of, you'll always experience this issue with your new system. Default settings on a 10 year old CPU/mobo is not the same as default settings on a modern system that employs far more energy saving features enabled by default.

It's not because my settings are by default today that I haven't tested your settings, what you mentioned, I've already tested them, but once tested, it makes sense for me to put the settings by default , since it didn't change anything, it makes sense to me.

It's very difficult to take you seriously when you claim you didn't notice anything by changing the settings I suggested in the bios. You're telling me that by disabling eist/speedstep/cstates/thermal monitor yielded you no positive results? That's very hard to believe. Eist/speedstep is a stepping technology that literally throttles your cpu and significant raises your systems overall latency. C-States is another energy saving feature that literally puts your cpu to sleep in different states which also significantly raises overall system latency and is responsible for stuttering. Imagine your cpu going to sleep and then waking up when u need it while you're gaming. It's a very bad experience. Thermal monitor is another energy saving features which down clocks you CPU if a specified thermal is hit. This also increases system latency. These are all on by default and if you want a responsive machine they must be disabled in the bios before you begin with the OS. Also, on your modern system you also have a thing called power limits. You have to find out how to configure your power limits so your cpu isn't being choked or limited by a default power setting in your bios. If it's limited to a low tdp by default, your cpu frequency will constantly change due to throttling causing all kinds of negative side effects while gaming. I also commented earlier regarding thermals and benching to determine what your best power settings should be so you're not being throttled. If you're interested, look for my comment in this thread. These are all things that need to be done on any modern system to ensure it runs as it's designed to do otherwise you're going to be in a world of hurt and forever frustrated.

In The OS, the bare minimum things to do is to first install all of your chipset drivers from your motherboards manufactures website. All of them, the infs, chipset drivers and even Intel management engine. The newer the machine, the more Intel management is needed since it's also responsible for providing power to the CPU. Whatever LAN and Audio drivers that the windows installed initially should be fine. Disable all power saving features in device manager. Find your nic in the device manager and disable power savings for it using one of the tabs. Then go in advanced and disable all nic related power saving features such as green Ethernet, power saving mode, etc. Now go down to you USB controllers and disable all power savings for each one. They all have power saving tabs. Next, install the latest GPU driver for your card.. Set it to high performance, disable vsync, etc. Now, Google how to enable ultimate performance power plan and enable it. Go into the plan options and make sure USB select suspend is DISABLED! I also recommend installing quickcpu to disable all core parking so you know all cores are awake and ready for action. Next, install msi utility v3 and make sure your gpu and USB devices are set to msi mode. Run this app as administrator. Put a check mark next to each device you want in msi mode, click apply, reboot. I recommend only putting your gpu and USB controllers in msi mode. If you have nvme or sata they are likely already in msi mode. After this, download timer resolution and set it to .5ms and keep it running in the background when gaming. This tells the system how often interrupts should be fired. 15.6ms is default which will result in a sluggish machine. In regards to registry edits, the ones with the most impact will be disable power throttling and spectre meltdown. Google how to do this, it's quick and easy and you'll acquire even more performance. For system responsiveness, look for win32priorityseparation. A good value to use is 26 in hex. Here's a link on this viewtopic.php?t=8535

Also make sure gamedvr is disabled and game mode enabled if on win 2004 or newer.

Lastly, when running your games on windows 10, you can't just run the game without tweaking the games .exe because full screen optimizations won't be disabled. If you don't disable this per game exe you'll be forced to feel the wrath of windows evil DWM compositor that adds tons of input lag because you'll be forced to run in borderless or windowed mode. You want to run full screen exclusive mode to get the best mouse input.

Just to note, if you do reinstall, make sure you only install your gaming mouse. Don't change it out with another mouse or you'll likely get hit with the windows mouse/keyboard big where drivers are installed incorrectly with existing dead drivers fucking up your mouse which is a common cause of 'floaty and detached feeling.'. This can be resolved but it's a pain.

This sounds like a lot, but then again this is a PC, not a console. These are the hurdles and obstacles we have to navigate to get a modern system functioning properly for gaming. Nowadays windows is really our only legit option and as windows and computers evolve, more and more of these bottlenecks will come.

I highly recommended you follow all of the steps i mentioned because most people have no idea how desync or input lag occurs and they start throwing absolutely insane ideas like buy another computer, or take it of to a friend's house, etc. EMI is a rare occurrence. In the vast majority of cases, the problem is the PC. If you want a baseline to work off of, this is how you do it. Then you can more easily troubleshoot future issues if you don't you I's and cross you T's. Once again, good luck and I hope you report back. I personally dealt with years of desync, input lag, etc. Im finally at a point after all of my research, trial and error, discovery on how to tune a windows PC specifically for gaming.

Last thing to add that I missed. In your bios you need to enable XMP or DOCP for your memory so it runs at the overclocked speeds, otherwise it will run at very slow stock speeds yielding horrible in game performance.

[kokkatc]

I stand behind akylen. (his issue looks similar to mine) What he says make total sense. If default BIOS setup on 10y old PC is outperform new default setup PC then what is wrong?
Why even tweek it if its not able to do it by default?

Ryzen master says 75W TDP max and thats by default. Before all this begin a was using i7 7700 and GTX1060 Z270 MSI, never touch BIOS settings…
Not 500FPS but the handling was insane…

I'm sorry, I don't understand the logic here. With all due respect, Akylens observation is short sighted and not a comparable or even similar comparison. You can't compare CPU architecture from 10 years ago to a modern system today. Secondly, for all we know, his old PC's thermals could be just fine with no throttling and his modern PC by default could either a) have unfavorable power limits set resulting in throttling or bad thermals also resulting in throttling. That is one of hundreds of examples as to why this comparison is useless unless you account for all the variables on both sides and CONFIRM both systems are running well. Good thermals, no throttling, no power saving features enabled resulting in increased latency and just plain lag.

Look, I'm trying to help you guys yet you're veering over towards nonsense solutions which apparently this thread is quickly becoming known for. Good luck.

[tinkiy4333]

By electricity, I mean maybe the old pc consumes less and may have a correlation with electricity because the new pc consumes more, something like that, I don't know much about it.

As for the settings in the bios, I haven't touched anything, everything is by default on both PCs.

It looks like I originally responded to your thread on 12/2/21 and you responded that you tried the things I suggested but now you're saying you haven't touched anything and both systems are at default. I already mentioned the things that could help you create a baseline to work off of. If you're interested in that you can find my previous comment I'm this thread.

The fact of the matter is that if you're unwilling to create a solid baseline to work off of, you'll always experience this issue with your new system. Default settings on a 10 year old CPU/mobo is not the same as default settings on a modern system that employs far more energy saving features enabled by default.

It's not because my settings are by default today that I haven't tested your settings, what you mentioned, I've already tested them, but once tested, it makes sense for me to put the settings by default , since it didn't change anything, it makes sense to me.

It's very difficult to take you seriously when you claim you didn't notice anything by changing the settings I suggested in the bios. You're telling me that by disabling eist/speedstep/cstates/thermal monitor yielded you no positive results? That's very hard to believe. Eist/speedstep is a stepping technology that literally throttles your cpu and significant raises your systems overall latency. C-States is another energy saving feature that literally puts your cpu to sleep in different states which also significantly raises overall system latency and is responsible for stuttering. Imagine your cpu going to sleep and then waking up when u need it while you're gaming. It's a very bad experience. Thermal monitor is another energy saving features which down clocks you CPU if a specified thermal is hit. This also increases system latency. These are all on by default and if you want a responsive machine they must be disabled in the bios before you begin with the OS. Also, on your modern system you also have a thing called power limits. You have to find out how to configure your power limits so your cpu isn't being choked or limited by a default power setting in your bios. If it's limited to a low tdp by default, your cpu frequency will constantly change due to throttling causing all kinds of negative side effects while gaming. I also commented earlier regarding thermals and benching to determine what your best power settings should be so you're not being throttled. If you're interested, look for my comment in this thread. These are all things that need to be done on any modern system to ensure it runs as it's designed to do otherwise you're going to be in a world of hurt and forever frustrated.

In The OS, the bare minimum things to do is to first install all of your chipset drivers from your motherboards manufactures website. All of them, the infs, chipset drivers and even Intel management engine. The newer the machine, the more Intel management is needed since it's also responsible for providing power to the CPU. Whatever LAN and Audio drivers that the windows installed initially should be fine. Disable all power saving features in device manager. Find your nic in the device manager and disable power savings for it using one of the tabs. Then go in advanced and disable all nic related power saving features such as green Ethernet, power saving mode, etc. Now go down to you USB controllers and disable all power savings for each one. They all have power saving tabs. Next, install the latest GPU driver for your card.. Set it to high performance, disable vsync, etc. Now, Google how to enable ultimate performance power plan and enable it. Go into the plan options and make sure USB select suspend is DISABLED! I also recommend installing quickcpu to disable all core parking so you know all cores are awake and ready for action. Next, install msi utility v3 and make sure your gpu and USB devices are set to msi mode. Run this app as administrator. Put a check mark next to each device you want in msi mode, click apply, reboot. I recommend only putting your gpu and USB controllers in msi mode. If you have nvme or sata they are likely already in msi mode. After this, download timer resolution and set it to .5ms and keep it running in the background when gaming. This tells the system how often interrupts should be fired. 15.6ms is default which will result in a sluggish machine. In regards to registry edits, the ones with the most impact will be disable power throttling and spectre meltdown. Google how to do this, it's quick and easy and you'll acquire even more performance. For system responsiveness, look for win32priorityseparation. A good value to use is 26 in hex. Here's a link on this viewtopic.php?t=8535

Also make sure gamedvr is disabled and game mode enabled if on win 2004 or newer.

Lastly, when running your games on windows 10, you can't just run the game without tweaking the games .exe because full screen optimizations won't be disabled. If you don't disable this per game exe you'll be forced to feel the wrath of windows evil DWM compositor that adds tons of input lag because you'll be forced to run in borderless or windowed mode. You want to run full screen exclusive mode to get the best mouse input.

Just to note, if you do reinstall, make sure you only install your gaming mouse. Don't change it out with another mouse or you'll likely get hit with the windows mouse/keyboard big where drivers are installed incorrectly with existing dead drivers fucking up your mouse which is a common cause of 'floaty and detached feeling.'. This can be resolved but it's a pain.

This sounds like a lot, but then again this is a PC, not a console. These are the hurdles and obstacles we have to navigate to get a modern system functioning properly for gaming. Nowadays windows is really our only legit option and as windows and computers evolve, more and more of these bottlenecks will come.

I highly recommended you follow all of the steps i mentioned because most people have no idea how desync or input lag occurs and they start throwing absolutely insane ideas like buy another computer, or take it of to a friend's house, etc. EMI is a rare occurrence. In the vast majority of cases, the problem is the PC. If you want a baseline to work off of, this is how you do it. Then you can more easily troubleshoot future issues if you don't you I's and cross you T's. Once again, good luck and I hope you report back. I personally dealt with years of desync, input lag, etc. Im finally at a point after all of my research, trial and error, discovery on how to tune a windows PC specifically for gaming.

Last thing to add that I missed. In your bios you need to enable XMP or DOCP for your memory so it runs at the overclocked speeds, otherwise it will run at very slow stock speeds yielding horrible in game performance.

I did not see anything adequate except for the chipset drivers, game mode, maximum performance power plan and xmp. Have these tips helped you personally? What is the point of touching the power saving functions in the BIOS? they all turn off during games. the last time i changed these settings it only made it worse my fps in game dropped and input lag just increased. msi mod and registry editing are placebo. changing the timer, disabling hpet in the bios or in windows will only worsen the situation, the mouse will only get worse. I have already checked all this and realized that it is best when everything is by default. just install the latest drivers for everything you have
in the PC and set the power plan to maximum performance or bitsum. the reason for the input lag is only the Internet, do not say stupid things because of which people can only damage their PC

[MegaMelmek]

i was try out 5 diferent ISP including 5g wireless there was no diference…

[kokkatc]

It looks like I originally responded to your thread on 12/2/21 and you responded that you tried the things I suggested but now you're saying you haven't touched anything and both systems are at default. I already mentioned the things that could help you create a baseline to work off of. If you're interested in that you can find my previous comment I'm this thread.

The fact of the matter is that if you're unwilling to create a solid baseline to work off of, you'll always experience this issue with your new system. Default settings on a 10 year old CPU/mobo is not the same as default settings on a modern system that employs far more energy saving features enabled by default.

It's not because my settings are by default today that I haven't tested your settings, what you mentioned, I've already tested them, but once tested, it makes sense for me to put the settings by default , since it didn't change anything, it makes sense to me.

It's very difficult to take you seriously when you claim you didn't notice anything by changing the settings I suggested in the bios. You're telling me that by disabling eist/speedstep/cstates/thermal monitor yielded you no positive results? That's very hard to believe. Eist/speedstep is a stepping technology that literally throttles your cpu and significant raises your systems overall latency. C-States is another energy saving feature that literally puts your cpu to sleep in different states which also significantly raises overall system latency and is responsible for stuttering. Imagine your cpu going to sleep and then waking up when u need it while you're gaming. It's a very bad experience. Thermal monitor is another energy saving features which down clocks you CPU if a specified thermal is hit. This also increases system latency. These are all on by default and if you want a responsive machine they must be disabled in the bios before you begin with the OS. Also, on your modern system you also have a thing called power limits. You have to find out how to configure your power limits so your cpu isn't being choked or limited by a default power setting in your bios. If it's limited to a low tdp by default, your cpu frequency will constantly change due to throttling causing all kinds of negative side effects while gaming. I also commented earlier regarding thermals and benching to determine what your best power settings should be so you're not being throttled. If you're interested, look for my comment in this thread. These are all things that need to be done on any modern system to ensure it runs as it's designed to do otherwise you're going to be in a world of hurt and forever frustrated.

In The OS, the bare minimum things to do is to first install all of your chipset drivers from your motherboards manufactures website. All of them, the infs, chipset drivers and even Intel management engine. The newer the machine, the more Intel management is needed since it's also responsible for providing power to the CPU. Whatever LAN and Audio drivers that the windows installed initially should be fine. Disable all power saving features in device manager. Find your nic in the device manager and disable power savings for it using one of the tabs. Then go in advanced and disable all nic related power saving features such as green Ethernet, power saving mode, etc. Now go down to you USB controllers and disable all power savings for each one. They all have power saving tabs. Next, install the latest GPU driver for your card.. Set it to high performance, disable vsync, etc. Now, Google how to enable ultimate performance power plan and enable it. Go into the plan options and make sure USB select suspend is DISABLED! I also recommend installing quickcpu to disable all core parking so you know all cores are awake and ready for action. Next, install msi utility v3 and make sure your gpu and USB devices are set to msi mode. Run this app as administrator. Put a check mark next to each device you want in msi mode, click apply, reboot. I recommend only putting your gpu and USB controllers in msi mode. If you have nvme or sata they are likely already in msi mode. After this, download timer resolution and set it to .5ms and keep it running in the background when gaming. This tells the system how often interrupts should be fired. 15.6ms is default which will result in a sluggish machine. In regards to registry edits, the ones with the most impact will be disable power throttling and spectre meltdown. Google how to do this, it's quick and easy and you'll acquire even more performance. For system responsiveness, look for win32priorityseparation. A good value to use is 26 in hex. Here's a link on this viewtopic.php?t=8535

Also make sure gamedvr is disabled and game mode enabled if on win 2004 or newer.

Lastly, when running your games on windows 10, you can't just run the game without tweaking the games .exe because full screen optimizations won't be disabled. If you don't disable this per game exe you'll be forced to feel the wrath of windows evil DWM compositor that adds tons of input lag because you'll be forced to run in borderless or windowed mode. You want to run full screen exclusive mode to get the best mouse input.

Just to note, if you do reinstall, make sure you only install your gaming mouse. Don't change it out with another mouse or you'll likely get hit with the windows mouse/keyboard big where drivers are installed incorrectly with existing dead drivers fucking up your mouse which is a common cause of 'floaty and detached feeling.'. This can be resolved but it's a pain.

This sounds like a lot, but then again this is a PC, not a console. These are the hurdles and obstacles we have to navigate to get a modern system functioning properly for gaming. Nowadays windows is really our only legit option and as windows and computers evolve, more and more of these bottlenecks will come.

I highly recommended you follow all of the steps i mentioned because most people have no idea how desync or input lag occurs and they start throwing absolutely insane ideas like buy another computer, or take it of to a friend's house, etc. EMI is a rare occurrence. In the vast majority of cases, the problem is the PC. If you want a baseline to work off of, this is how you do it. Then you can more easily troubleshoot future issues if you don't you I's and cross you T's. Once again, good luck and I hope you report back. I personally dealt with years of desync, input lag, etc. Im finally at a point after all of my research, trial and error, discovery on how to tune a windows PC specifically for gaming.

Last thing to add that I missed. In your bios you need to enable XMP or DOCP for your memory so it runs at the overclocked speeds, otherwise it will run at very slow stock speeds yielding horrible in game performance.

I did not see anything adequate except for the chipset drivers, game mode, maximum performance power plan and xmp. Have these tips helped you personally? What is the point of touching the power saving functions in the BIOS? they all turn off during games. the last time i changed these settings it only made it worse my fps in game dropped and input lag just increased. msi mod and registry editing are placebo. changing the timer, disabling hpet in the bios or in windows will only worsen the situation, the mouse will only get worse. I have already checked all this and realized that it is best when everything is by default. just install the latest drivers for everything you have
in the PC and set the power plan to maximum performance or bitsum. the reason for the input lag is only the Internet, do not say stupid things because of which people can only damage their PC

'The last time I changed 'these' settings.' What settings exactly are you referring to? You're being very vague. If things got 'worse' after you changed some settings as you claim, it's most likely user error and you messed something up. Or by disabling something for all we know your computer ran hotter and started to throttle which is an entirely separate issue. You need to be specific on what exactly 'messed up your system.' W/ that said I'll attempt to respond.

First I'll respond to your 'power savings functions in bios' comment. Your understanding on this subject is incorrect. They do not 'turn off during games' as you claimed. Once again, entirely false. EIST, C-states, thermal monitor, do not turn off during games. They will hurt performance, add stutter, increase latency. This is just a fact. This can be confirmed by using latency monitor or even a mouse polling app such as mousetester. Please delete this notion from your head. You want a more responsive system, disable those power saving features.

'MSI mod and registry editing are placebo.' Sigh... once again, entirely false. Let me begin with MSI mode. Line based mode used to be the standard but had issues in regards to IRQ/interrupt sharing and scalability. Devices often compete for interrupts in this design which created a lot of problems along w/ being an obvious latency hazard. In MSI mode, the device sends a message directly to its driver so the need for IRQ lines is no longer needed. I'll quote a good source on this matter, "MSI-X, an extension to the MSI model, which is introduced in PCI 3.0, adds support for 32-bit messages (instead of 16-bit), a maximum of 2048 different messages (instead of just 32)" <https://forums.guru3d.com/threads/windo ... ol.378044/>. Here's a microsoft doc on MSI as well: <https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/window ... interrupts>. Want proof? Cool, so would I. You can confirm driver latency by using latency monitor that when a driver is in MSI mode, latency is significantly lower. Mousetester will also confirm a tighter polling rate when in msi mode vs line based mode. W/ that said, I only recommended putting the GPU and USB controller in MSI mode. These 2 will have the most impact on latency which once again is CONFIRMED by using latency monitor. You can also run frametime tests and you'll see tighter frametimes as well if GPU is in MSI mode. USB latency will also be lower if the GPU is in MSI mode. You can lower usb latency even further by putting your usb controller in MSI mode as well. Whether you want your usb controller in MSI mode is honestly in my opinion based on personal preference. Many prefer their usb controllers stay in line based mode because the mouse will feel 'more in control.' MSI mode on your usb controller can feel too reactive for some due to the increased responsiveness. So no, MSI mode is NOT placebo. AMD cards have always shipped out in MSI mode where nvidia stuck w/ line based mode. There used to be an argument that MSI mode wasn't needed because Nvidia gpus by default were in line based mode. Well, this argument is no longer valid because now even Nvidia ships out their modern gpus in MSI mode by default. If it were placebo as you say, they would have kept it in line based mode which they did not. So I'll repeat, you want your GPU & USB controller in MSI mode. If you don't like the feel of the mouse in MSI mode, change it back to line based.

'Registry editing are placebo.' Once again, SIGH. I recommended only 2 registry edits that are confirmed performance enhancements for gaming. Disabling Power Throttling and Spectre Meltdown. Power throttling is another power saving mechanism to lower energy consumption. This hurts gaming performance and overall system latency. Spectre Meltdown has already been proven to hurt gaming performance some 5-10%. Spectre Meltdown introduced mitigation techniques to cover for security vulnerabilities. Microsoft themselves already confirmed that protecting against these security vulnerabilities will have a performance impact. There are plenty of benchmarks out there proving the negative impact of the spectre & meltdown patches. If you're using your PC mainly for gaming, this should be disabled. If you're very concerned about security, keep it enabled. So I'll repeat, your 'placebo' statement is false. There's plenty of placebo out there, this isn't one of them.

I never mentioned anything about HPET or the windows timer so I'm not sure why you're suggesting I did. Now, in regards to HPET and the windows timer, HPET should be ENABLED in the bios and DISABLED in the OS. Most new motherboards won't even give you the option to disable HPET in the bios at this point, likely do the fact that disabling HPET @ the bios level is a bad idea. Some apps will call for HPET, so you should let the OS decide which timer to use. You can disable HPET in the OS by opening an elevated command prompt and entering this command <bcdedit /deletevalue useplatformclock>. That's really all you need to do in regards to timers. If on windows version 2004 or newer, I would advise not using any bcdedit commands w/ the exception of the one I mentioned. That's just to confirm HPET is disabled in the OS. I did mention however that you should use an app like timer resolution to lower timer resolution to .5ms for increased responsiveness and lower input lag.

Lastly you mentioned the only reason for input lag 'is the Internet.' I really don't know how to respond to this but it's clear you're a bit out of your depth on this. I will not resort to suggesting you're saying 'stupid things' as you did to me but I will say that half of what you said is false and you really shouldn't be spreading false information.

[tinkiy4333]

Apparently you will be difficult to convince. I won't even try. but I want you to watch this video, where a person disconnects the computer from the Internet and his mouse becomes responsive and without twitching. i also tested it on my pc and it's true, the game is getting smoother. I don't understand why this is happening and I'm trying to find the reason for it. www.youtube.com/watch?v=zsqz7GYyqm8