puzaq wrote:Jorimt - how would that tool work with ps4? and wouldn't 60hz cause eyestrain? I only had LG crt in about 2003 and I remember my eyes were tired and that was gone when lcd was introduced. I was expecting the strobing could be done at 120hz and game at 30 or 60 so it divides evenly and magically works. Sorry I don't have any idea how this works
anyway - images of that super clear ufo look very promising !
The monitor is reprogrammed via the Utility. Once it's configured, you can swap cables and it will keep strobing at 60Hz with PS4.
But if your eyes hurt with 60Hz flicker, do not try this, that's not what you want. There are other options, however.
For strobe-based blur reduction, you need one strobe per frame for perfect butter-smooth CRT motion clarity (no stutter, no double images). Doing a frame rate lower than flicker rate will create multi-image effects. Remember when 30fps created double images (CRT 30fps@60Hz). Same problem occurs at 60fps@120Hz, too!
To fix that and get stutterless single-image CRT motion clarity, you require the triple match:
stroberate = refreshrate = framerate
See:
https://forums.blurbusters.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=3555
If you dislike flicker or double image effects, you must use high frame rate (e.g. 120 frames per second) to achieve high flicker rate. To do that, may require require moving from console gaming to PC gaming, and using a high-Hz monitor to gain blur-free flicker-free CRT motion clarity. Or putting up with the big input lag of traditional frame rate interpolation (e.g. Sony MotionFlow, etc).
The only way to get blur-free, without flicker and without double-images, is really high Hz either way. Whether it's fake frames (TV interpolation) or genuine frames (high-Hz gaming monitors). And if you want to avoid strobing at any Hz, the Hz necessary to eliminate motion blur, becomes really super-high (we've recently
tested 480Hz, by the way! Though this is a display for computers, not consoles)
Currently, if you hate motion blur
and hate 60Hz CRTs, your best bet is to get a high-end PC gaming system, and a
good high-Hz monitor (I'd recommend 240Hz G-SYNC). That way, you can get low motion blur either way, strobed or nonstrobed. Either completely flicker-free strobe-free 4.1ms persistence (via GSYNC, 1/240sec persistence) or high-144Hz-strobed <1ms (via ULMB, 1ms strobe flash).
Persistence is frame visibility length either way, whether it's strobed or the refresh cycle length (of non-strobed):
Assumes framerate = refreshrate (And = stroberate, when strobed).
So your options really, are:
- Get a 60Hz CRT
Flickers a lot, but zero-blur with consoles.
-
- Get a 60Hz single-strobe-capable monitor like early BenQ-branded XL2720Z.
Flickers a lot, but zero-blur with consoles.
-
- Get a 60Hz-strobe-capable HDTV. RTINGS.com tells you which HDTVs provide a single-strobe mode.
Flickers a lot, but zero-blur with consoles.
-
- Get a 120Hz strobe-capable display that can strobe on a 60Hz console input (BenQ/Zowie displays can do it).
Much less flicker, no blur, but double-images with 60fps, and quadruple-images with 30fps
-
- Switch to PC gaming, high-end GPU, high-Hz monitor
Much better flicker-free blur-reduced experience. Using either:
-- Strobe modes above your flicker sensitivity threshold (85fps@85Hz, 100fps@100Hz, 120fps@120Hz)
-- Nonstrobed blur reduction via brute Hertz (240fps@240Hz nonstrobed)
Remember there's a lot of brands of
Motion Blur Reduction strobe backlights, such as ULMB, LightBoost, DyAc, Turbo240, etc. Some of these brands only work with PCs, some are locked to a minimum Hz (e.g. 85Hz), while a very few also work with consoles. The inability to do 60Hz strobe flicker with consoles comes from two reasons:
(A) from vendor-locking (e.g. NVIDIA GPU needed for ULMB, preventing use of ULMB on consoles)
(B) from liability concerns (e.g. epilepsy from 60Hz flicker, preventing use with consoles)
So bringing back the CRT-motion-clarity days while saying goodbye to CRT flicker, requires pretty much defacto option (5) above.