Blur Busters Forums

Darkvader100 wrote: ↑

05 Mar 2021, 07:45

Hi, if i overclock the monitor to 280hz, how will the input lag be if the game has a lot of fps drops (fortnite)? Since the monitor have high input lag on 60hz. I got a rtx 3080 and i7 10700k.

Rtings measured high inputlag only at a "fixed 60hz" refreshrate.

How much time does it take to power up this monitor?
I don't know is it just my unit but it is slow. Takes 10 sec to power on, and my windows boot times are 35% slower then they used to be with other monitors because of it. Seems like it changes resolution or refresh multiple times while booting. Is there a way to solve this?

I can maintain +400 fps (with occasional drops to 240-270) in CS:GO playing at 4:3 1280x960 with my laptop, which settings should i use for competitive gameplay ?

i cant decide between 280Hz ELMB ON or 280Hz OD80 ELMB Off

rem wrote: ↑

08 Mar 2021, 06:50

i cant decide between 280Hz ELMB ON or 280Hz OD80 ELMB Off

There are pros/cons depending on what kind of gaming tactics you do.

If you are a stare-at-crosshairs type, you don't benefit much from blur reduction. But if you're tracking eyes on moving objects going through camouflaged areas, or that you need aim-stabilization (for automatic-fire weapons), then motion blur reduction can be a big benefit. See HOWTO: Using ULMB Beautifully or Competitively.

LucPls wrote: ↑

17 Nov 2020, 04:01

Anybody fixed the deepsleep on the display port?
Is there a way to check if there's a new firmware available?

Hey man, did you manage to fix this, is it even possible? Firmware can't be updated on this monitor unfortunately.
Im having similar issue, monitor seems to take forever to power up. Its a bottleneck to my fast ssd windows boot times.

What's about elmb? Can you explain me the best settings for it and whether its worth it?

Itaxchi wrote: ↑

09 Mar 2021, 14:38

What's about elmb? Can you explain me the best settings for it and whether its worth it?

ELMB is strobing, basically when you start a refresh cycle a color goes from X to Y, and it takes a percentage of the refresh window to do so, this produces motion blur due to the transition not being instantaneous.

ELMB and other strobing technologies cut the color transition period, by switching off the backlight, only to flash it when the transition is over, this ends up removing motion blur and showing you only a completed (or partially completed) color transition.

This translates into better motion clarity, but it has some downsides:
1) due to the backlight switching OFF and back ON there will be a brightness penalty
2) there will be crosstalk on the top/bottom of the screen, not at the center
3) You are more sensible to stutters and refresh rate fluctuations (you always need fps>=refresh rate)
4) Some people are sensible to eyestrains

Personally I love strobing and I believe that it's worth the tradeoffs.

Standard ELMB works quite well on the VG259QM at both 240 and 280hz however when you enable ELMB + Adaptive Sync the backlight will double strobe and you won't be able to benefit from impoved motion clarity.

Best settings are ELMB ON, Adaptive SYnc OFF, either 240 or 280hz and Black boost to 2 or 3.

axaro1 wrote: ↑

09 Mar 2021, 17:44

Itaxchi wrote: ↑

09 Mar 2021, 14:38

What's about elmb? Can you explain me the best settings for it and whether its worth it?

ELMB is strobing, basically when you start a refresh cycle a color goes from X to Y, and it takes a percentage of the refresh window to do so, this produces motion blur due to the transition not being instantaneous.

ELMB and other strobing technologies cut the color transition period, by switching off the backlight, only to flash it when the transition is over, this ends up removing motion blur and showing you only a completed (or partially completed) color transition.

This translates into better motion clarity, but it has some downsides:
1) due to the backlight switching OFF and back ON there will be a brightness penalty
2) there will be crosstalk on the top/bottom of the screen, not at the center
3) You are more sensible to stutters and refresh rate fluctuations (you always need fps>=refresh rate)
4) Some people are sensible to eyestrains

Personally I love strobing and I believe that it's worth the tradeoffs.

Standard ELMB works quite well on the VG259QM at both 240 and 280hz however when you enable ELMB + Adaptive Sync the backlight will double strobe and you won't be able to benefit from impoved motion clarity.

Best settings are ELMB ON, Adaptive SYnc OFF, either 240 or 280hz and Black boost to 2 or 3.

First of all I gonna refer ELMB as ELMB without GSYNC and ELMB SYNC as ELMB + GSYNC.
In my experience ELMB SYNC works better on than off at 240 hz but at 280 hz it's imperceptible the difference between ELMB SYNC on vs off and OD 80, just can see a difference at 280 hz with ELMB. But my issue is that even at 280 hz, OD 80 have minimal but perceptible overshoot. With ELMB SYNC that overshoot goes away

Hey guys, I'm playing R6S for the competitive, I get 280+ FPS constant, what better OD to use with 280Hz? thankful.

mcxr6s wrote: ↑

13 Mar 2021, 09:43

Hey guys, I'm playing R6S for the competitive, I get 280+ FPS constant, what better OD to use with 280Hz? thankful.

R6s is one of those games that massively benefit from strobing so I always recommend ELMB at 280hz with Adaptive Sync OFF (as long as you can constantly achieve 280+fps, which is not too difficult especially if you launch the game in Vulkan instead of DX11).
Always pair strobing with TAA OFF (and Vividpixel 25 or 50 + Shadow Boost lvl 2 or 3) to make enemy shapes sharper and easier to distinguish.

R6S is one of those games where even top players (such as Spoit to name one) play while strobing, this is because there are many game mechanics that perfectly suits strobing such as Quick Peeking, Recoil control with recoil induced shaking heavily mitigated, which helps you not lose track of the enemies when shooting for example with a high recoil high rpm weapon such as Twitch's F2.
Spatial awareness is also noticeably improved by strobing and this is very useful when you enter a room and an enemy head pops out in your FOV while you are moving or when an enemy appear behind a bullet hole in the wall, noticing these details can make difference.

If you are not a fan of strobing you have 3 alternatives:
- If you are very sensible to overshoot and not so sensible to ghosting go for OD60
- If you want the fastest response times at the expenses of some overshoot go for OD80
- If you want something in the middle, follow my OD120 guide, it's a good balance between OD60 and OD80 with overshoot being limited to a smaller percentage of transitions compared to OD80.