xenphor wrote: ↑08 Dec 2021, 02:17
Chief Blur Buster wrote: ↑07 Dec 2021, 23:16
xenphor wrote: ↑07 Dec 2021, 13:27
I would be interested in trying out BFI but I'm afraid my eyes won't be able to tolerate it for very long. For example, I'm not able to use interlaced resolutions like 1080i on an LCD. Since a lot of the content I want to use it for is older retro stuff that's locked at 60hz, I'm guessing the flickering would be even worse than at 120hz+. Do I have the right assumptions?
INFO
Thanks for the info.
This may seem like a weird question, but do you know if the monitor accepts Limited Range RGB (meaning blacks would be gray)? I've had issues with eye strain when using Full Range RGB (even after adjusting brightness/contrast/saturation/gamma) and find that using Limited Range RGB is the only way to over come it (I realize this is not desirable by most people). I think it would also be helpful to reduce eye strain when using strobing.
I've tried monitors in the past that don't change when selecting Limited Range in the control panel which is why I ask.
For The Few People Who Like To Make Screen Blacks Brighter/Grayer For Vision Reasons
The XG2431 will do what you want to do. However, generically there’s also a workaround that works on any monitor:
On any monitor with appropriate picture adjustments (Contrast, R Gain, G Gain, B Gain, and/or a digital Brightness adjustment like NVIDIA Control Panel) you can quite accurately simulate Limited Range RGB using judicious digital-only (non-backlight) Contrast/Brightness changes with a colorimeter, or even eyeball it with a reference monitor.
Sometimes you have “Black Level” and “White Level” which can be used, but you can simply use Contrast, combined with R/G/B Gains, to squeeze/compress/shift your desired GPU color gamut as a subset within the monitor’s color gamut — accurately doing what you need.
Basically, you use one of the Lagom test patterns, and raise the black levels / lower the white level, so that you have brighter blacks without messing up the whites.
If you do not have a colorimeter, use
www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/contrast.php
Decrease contrast until the blacks are as grey as you want. Then adjust white level (via R/G/B gain) until you can see all the bright colors properly. Go back and forth (adjust Contrast to set your black, then adjust white level with whatever monitor adjustments allows you to, like R/G/B Gain, then go back to Contrast, then back to white level, then back to Contrast, then back to white level), jiggling back and fourth until you’ve got the perfect balance, because the adjustments can interact with each other.
If using NVIDIA Control Panel, use Contrast as your black level setter, and use Brightness as your white level setter. Adjust Contrast, Brightness, Contrast, Brightness, Contrast, Brightness. It’s a lot more jiggle back and forth but you can do it without monitor menus too.
Remember to ALWAYS write down the original picture adjustment settings, it’s easy to mess up the picture by randomly screwing around.
Or quick-n-dirty, you can simply use HDTV RGB range settings instead to kick your 0 IRE blacks to 7.5 IRE (aka 7.5% brightness, a dark gray), and use the HDMI input (which supports 240Hz) if DisplayPort doesn’t let you via monitor menus.
One big bonus of doing that is your strobe crosstalk will go down even further, because a raised black level gives you more overdrive undershoot room below your GPU blacks. The monitor can automatically overdrive via 0% black to speed a pixel transition from 90% white pixel to 7.5% near-black. So you sidestep a known slow part of the GtG heatmap known to many IPS LCD. It’s not quite as bad as VA LCDs, but near-white to near-black transitions are known “slow-ish” transitions, especially on cold panels.