Rare/Electrical Issues Affecting Latency — Interference, EMI, EMF

[Sqnax17]

Hi guys, I'm from Brazil. I am not encouraging anyone to stop looking for solutions. I'm a layman on the subject, but I've been researching this anomolo inputlag caused by electricity for years. in 2018-2019 the pc was perfect and very cool, but after 2019 it's all over. I tried 2 completely different pcs, different houses and nothing happened. Recently, after testing an online double conversion UPS with pure sine wave (I feel the battery play better with the equipment disconnected from the socket, but it doesn't come close to normal operation) it didn't work, not even a panamax power conditioner. I saw several people saying that a balanced theroidal transformer would solve the problem, so I decided to buy it and spent some money because I live in Brazil and for us it is a very high value. And it didn't solve anything. So guys, don't spend money for nothing until you have an explanation with factual evidence about the solution. I particularly give up playing for fun and competitively (which I did best and it was good). It really is impossible.

FIXED THE PROBLEM. I CONNECTED THE MONITOR TO THE BATTERY DIRECTLY AND I SEE EVERYTHING, EVERYTHING AND FAST. NOW I WILL CONNECT THE SOURCE DIRECTLY TO THE BATTERY. SINE INVERTERS ARE RUMBLE. FIXED

I SAID I DIDN'T FIX THE PROBLEM. UNTIL CONNECTING THE MONITOR DIRECTLY TO THE 12V BATTERY

[delve]

Hi guys, I'm from Brazil. I am not encouraging anyone to stop looking for solutions. I'm a layman on the subject, but I've been researching this anomolo inputlag caused by electricity for years. in 2018-2019 the pc was perfect and very cool, but after 2019 it's all over. I tried 2 completely different pcs, different houses and nothing happened. Recently, after testing an online double conversion UPS with pure sine wave (I feel the battery play better with the equipment disconnected from the socket, but it doesn't come close to normal operation) it didn't work, not even a panamax power conditioner. I saw several people saying that a balanced theroidal transformer would solve the problem, so I decided to buy it and spent some money because I live in Brazil and for us it is a very high value. And it didn't solve anything. So guys, don't spend money for nothing until you have an explanation with factual evidence about the solution. I particularly give up playing for fun and competitively (which I did best and it was good). It really is impossible.

FIXED THE PROBLEM. I CONNECTED THE MONITOR TO THE BATTERY DIRECTLY AND I SEE EVERYTHING, EVERYTHING AND FAST. NOW I WILL CONNECT THE SOURCE DIRECTLY TO THE BATTERY. SINE INVERTERS ARE RUMBLE. FIXED

I SAID I DIDN'T FIX THE PROBLEM. UNTIL CONNECTING THE MONITOR DIRECTLY TO THE 12V BATTERY

how did you do this though, for pc you need dc power supply, very expensive sadly.

[Mims]

Fixed my issue 5 days ago by replacing my power cable from my 240hz monitor (which i bought 2-3 months ago), it was moving a lot and making electric sound when i was moving my monitor sometimes.

And before that i noticed that i didn't had the issue of being late when playing fps game like valorant or csgo when picking a corner, i had time to shoot back before dying when switching the AMA mode to HIGH instead of PREMIUM, and had a better hit registry, guess it wasn't an internet issue all along ...

I also didn't had all of my standoff screw for the motherboard put in my pc case, which helped a lot too.

[F1zus]

if you connect the pc directly to a battery, it would refute your argument

If you connect the computer directly to the battery, the input lag will disappear. It is a fact. The battery cannot contain dirty electricity.
If your input lag does not disappear when powered by battery, then the problem is in the system, computer components.

[internetexplorer4]

Hi guys, I'm from Brazil. I am not encouraging anyone to stop looking for solutions. I'm a layman on the subject, but I've been researching this anomolo inputlag caused by electricity for years. in 2018-2019 the pc was perfect and very cool, but after 2019 it's all over. I tried 2 completely different pcs, different houses and nothing happened. Recently, after testing an online double conversion UPS with pure sine wave (I feel the battery play better with the equipment disconnected from the socket, but it doesn't come close to normal operation) it didn't work, not even a panamax power conditioner. I saw several people saying that a balanced theroidal transformer would solve the problem, so I decided to buy it and spent some money because I live in Brazil and for us it is a very high value. And it didn't solve anything. So guys, don't spend money for nothing until you have an explanation with factual evidence about the solution. I particularly give up playing for fun and competitively (which I did best and it was good). It really is impossible.

FIXED THE PROBLEM. I CONNECTED THE MONITOR TO THE BATTERY DIRECTLY AND I SEE EVERYTHING, EVERYTHING AND FAST. NOW I WILL CONNECT THE SOURCE DIRECTLY TO THE BATTERY. SINE INVERTERS ARE RUMBLE. FIXED

I SAID I DIDN'T FIX THE PROBLEM. UNTIL CONNECTING THE MONITOR DIRECTLY TO THE 12V BATTERY

great!! can you record a video showing the difference in your gameplay maybe? playing on grid vs playing off grid

or maybe post some screenshots of your matches, comparing your frags and performance

it would be really cool if you could record that difference on camera like, first playing with the monitor connected in the outlet and then plugging into the battery, all that in the same video without edit or cuts for us to really see the difference, it would be a great proof for everyone here

[Chief Blur Buster]

This is crazy stuff, but it's still got scientific basis. This would be very guerilla/MacGyver/ducttape way of going about things, but I'm monitoring this because of a lot of forum members on very bad Eastern Europe / Southern America electricity grids. To the point where I am seeing people trying to power a PC off a car battery to get away from electrical interference built into grids.

A lot of computer monitors use 12V-20V AC adaptor bricks, so I am not surprised that some gaming monitors works fine off unregulated car battery electricity. There's switching DC voltage regulators built into computer monitors so monitors have its own way of regulating power, to support the wide variety of DC power bricks used.

Even the 18V-20V computer monitors can usually be successfully undervolted to 12-14V (aka direct voltage from a car battery) and still function, but it varies from monitor to monitor. This is because most monitors have a built-in DC-DC switching power supply, that will regulate the barrel input jack.

However, the computer is going to fry very easily -- due to the 3.3V and 5V rail -- unless you thought of it. I'm really curious how you did it to a computer PSU. Most have 12V, 5V and 3.3V rails. Applying 12V to the 5V and 3.3V rails, would blow up a lot of components, unless you're using some kind of voltage regulator or modifying a 120V PSU as a 12VDC power supply splitting to 12/5/3.3. I am not crazy enough to try that, but it would be quite cheaper than a Jackery Power Station or similar clone -- the recommended offgridding route. Be careful. The battery can explode if short circuited. I don't recommend it. But if you're doing it anyway, I'm monitoring -- just everyone here disclaim all risks of following advice here. This isn't stuff for the inexperienced!

For those successfully hooking a PC to a car battery -- you said "DIRECTLY". Do you mean through an inverter? Or without one?

If without an inverter, how are you handling the very dangerously sensitive 3.3V and 5V rails? Hopefully you are actually using an inverter, and just simply mean "directly" as the battery+inverter system.

500 watt power-socket inverters with car-battery clips, are nowadays cheap at under USD $50 on Amazon/Alibaba/ebay so that would work much more safely -- you're letting a computer PSU do its job. Some local stores in some countries may sell 500 watt inverters at the equivalent of USD$20-$30 in your currency (no Amazon premium). Pay a few pennies more and get a 750/1000W capable inverter instead. So you have a cheap car battery, a cheap inverter, and you're offgrid for a little while depending on battery capacity.

Even the 4000-watt solar inverters (compatible with car batteries) have fallen to under USD $400, so you could even use those with a car battery for now. (And add solar panels later, win-win). And works with multiple car batteries (expandable) in parallel for longer runtimes. Some even also double as car battery rechargers when plugging the inverter into the grid.

All very Macgyver-style duct-tape stuff. Monitors/routers/etc would usually easily work fine directly connected to a car battery (12-20V DC barrel input), with some mitigatable risks, but the computer is complex to power! Ideally if it's not an indoors-safety-rated battery, then the battery needs to be outdoors (but still weather-protected), hooked by extension cable, if you try this. You'll be safer.

And, if possible, consider the 12.8V 100aH lithium iron batteries with built in BMS (safety system!), a bit more expensive but you get 7000+ charge cycles and they're much more explosion-proof than the common lithium-maganese or lead-acid batteries. Make sure the charger is compatible with lithium (and configure the charger correctly)!

I'm lucky I don't have to do it in Canada with a (comparatively) cleaner electric grid, but offgridding is indeed getting cheaper and cheaper. A good-quality spare car battery, a $30 inverter, and you're offgrid with a gaming PC rig roughly one hour-ish (give or take).

Disclaimer: Not For The Inexperienced. Batteries Can Explode. Batteries (Lead or Lithium) Are Highly Toxic. You Can Fry Computer Components. Inverters Can Electrocute You. Do At Own Risk!

[Sqnax17]

This is crazy stuff, but it's still got scientific basis. This would be very guerilla/MacGyver/ducttape way of going about things, but I'm monitoring this because of a lot of forum members on very bad Eastern Europe / Southern America electricity grids. To the point where I am seeing people trying to power a PC off a car battery to get away from electrical interference built into grids.

A lot of computer monitors use 12V-20V AC adaptor bricks, so I am not surprised that some gaming monitors works fine off unregulated car battery electricity. There's switching DC voltage regulators built into computer monitors so monitors have its own way of regulating power, to support the wide variety of DC power bricks used.

Even the 18V-20V computer monitors can usually be successfully undervolted to 12-14V (aka direct voltage from a car battery) and still function, but it varies from monitor to monitor. This is because most monitors have a built-in DC-DC switching power supply, that will regulate the barrel input jack.

However, the computer is going to fry very easily -- due to the 3.3V and 5V rail -- unless you thought of it. I'm really curious how you did it to a computer PSU. Most have 12V, 5V and 3.3V rails. Applying 12V to the 5V and 3.3V rails, would blow up a lot of components, unless you're using some kind of voltage regulator or modifying a 120V PSU as a 12VDC power supply splitting to 12/5/3.3. I am not crazy enough to try that, but it would be quite cheaper than a Jackery Power Station or similar clone -- the recommended offgridding route. Be careful. The battery can explode if short circuited. I don't recommend it. But if you're doing it anyway, I'm monitoring -- just everyone here disclaim all risks of following advice here. This isn't stuff for the inexperienced!

For those successfully hooking a PC to a car battery -- you said "DIRECTLY". Do you mean through an inverter? Or without one?

If without an inverter, how are you handling the very dangerously sensitive 3.3V and 5V rails? Hopefully you are actually using an inverter, and just simply mean "directly" as the battery+inverter system.

500 watt power-socket inverters with car-battery clips, are nowadays cheap at under USD $50 on Amazon/Alibaba/ebay so that would work much more safely -- you're letting a computer PSU do its job. Some local stores in some countries may sell 500 watt inverters at the equivalent of USD$20-$30 in your currency (no Amazon premium). Pay a few pennies more and get a 750/1000W capable inverter instead. So you have a cheap car battery, a cheap inverter, and you're offgrid for a little while depending on battery capacity.

Even the 4000-watt solar inverters (compatible with car batteries) have fallen to under USD $400, so you could even use those with a car battery for now. (And add solar panels later, win-win). And works with multiple car batteries (expandable) in parallel for longer runtimes. Some even also double as car battery rechargers when plugging the inverter into the grid.

All very Macgyver-style duct-tape stuff. Monitors/routers/etc would usually easily work fine directly connected to a car battery (12-20V DC barrel input), with some mitigatable risks, but the computer is complex to power! Ideally if it's not an indoors-safety-rated battery, then the battery needs to be outdoors (but still weather-protected), hooked by extension cable, if you try this. You'll be safer.

And, if possible, consider the 12.8V 100aH lithium iron batteries with built in BMS (safety system!), a bit more expensive but you get 7000+ charge cycles and they're much more explosion-proof than the common lithium-maganese or lead-acid batteries. Make sure the charger is compatible with lithium (and configure the charger correctly)!

I'm lucky I don't have to do it in Canada with a (comparatively) cleaner electric grid, but offgridding is indeed getting cheaper and cheaper. A good-quality spare car battery, a $30 inverter, and you're offgrid with a gaming PC rig roughly one hour-ish (give or take).

Disclaimer: Not For The Inexperienced. Batteries Can Explode. Batteries (Lead or Lithium) Are Highly Toxic. You Can Fry Computer Components. Inverters Can Electrocute You. Do At Own Risk!

Boss, I'm using the graphics card and processor right now on battery. Only the 24-pin plug from the motherboard is missing. I already ordered an adapter with 12v 5v normal and 3.3, this adapter goes straight to the battery and provides the proper voltage to the motherboard. I have off-grid solar so my battery doesn't drop below 12.2 and doesn't go over 12.4v. inputlag is infinitely better. Missing only the motherboard to be connected to the battery to see the results. I'm pretty confident because every piece of hardware I put on the drums improved the inputlag. Now I'm playing all my games quietly. And the tensions are normal. I'll be back next week with the final results.

[Sqnax17]

Hi guys, I'm from Brazil. I am not encouraging anyone to stop looking for solutions. I'm a layman on the subject, but I've been researching this anomolo inputlag caused by electricity for years. in 2018-2019 the pc was perfect and very cool, but after 2019 it's all over. I tried 2 completely different pcs, different houses and nothing happened. Recently, after testing an online double conversion UPS with pure sine wave (I feel the battery play better with the equipment disconnected from the socket, but it doesn't come close to normal operation) it didn't work, not even a panamax power conditioner. I saw several people saying that a balanced theroidal transformer would solve the problem, so I decided to buy it and spent some money because I live in Brazil and for us it is a very high value. And it didn't solve anything. So guys, don't spend money for nothing until you have an explanation with factual evidence about the solution. I particularly give up playing for fun and competitively (which I did best and it was good). It really is impossible.

computer fully connected to battery, without any type of inverter. After years, finally. No inputlag. Solar energy to charge battery and PC connected to battery. finally solved

[delve]

Hi guys, I'm from Brazil. I am not encouraging anyone to stop looking for solutions. I'm a layman on the subject, but I've been researching this anomolo inputlag caused by electricity for years. in 2018-2019 the pc was perfect and very cool, but after 2019 it's all over. I tried 2 completely different pcs, different houses and nothing happened. Recently, after testing an online double conversion UPS with pure sine wave (I feel the battery play better with the equipment disconnected from the socket, but it doesn't come close to normal operation) it didn't work, not even a panamax power conditioner. I saw several people saying that a balanced theroidal transformer would solve the problem, so I decided to buy it and spent some money because I live in Brazil and for us it is a very high value. And it didn't solve anything. So guys, don't spend money for nothing until you have an explanation with factual evidence about the solution. I particularly give up playing for fun and competitively (which I did best and it was good). It really is impossible.

computer fully connected to battery, without any type of inverter. After years, finally. No inputlag. Solar energy to charge battery and PC connected to battery. finally solved

How did you make the monitor work, can you explain?

[Sqnax17]

Hi guys, I'm from Brazil. I am not encouraging anyone to stop looking for solutions. I'm a layman on the subject, but I've been researching this anomolo inputlag caused by electricity for years. in 2018-2019 the pc was perfect and very cool, but after 2019 it's all over. I tried 2 completely different pcs, different houses and nothing happened. Recently, after testing an online double conversion UPS with pure sine wave (I feel the battery play better with the equipment disconnected from the socket, but it doesn't come close to normal operation) it didn't work, not even a panamax power conditioner. I saw several people saying that a balanced theroidal transformer would solve the problem, so I decided to buy it and spent some money because I live in Brazil and for us it is a very high value. And it didn't solve anything. So guys, don't spend money for nothing until you have an explanation with factual evidence about the solution. I particularly give up playing for fun and competitively (which I did best and it was good). It really is impossible.

computer fully connected to battery, without any type of inverter. After years, finally. No inputlag. Solar energy to charge battery and PC connected to battery. finally solved

How did you make the monitor work, can you explain?

you need a monitor with an external power supply