I feel like i could achieve a spectacular level of motion clarity on my cheap chinese 280hz TN monitor (i don't even know the real brand name, because its sold on Brazil with a rebranded name, lol), i dont know if this is the norm, but thats what happened, and its so good that i felt like i was playing on a CRT again.
But im afraid it can put so much stress on my display that it could damage it overtime, i just dont want ruin it because it feels hard to get another cheap 280hz TN monitor.
Basically i used desktopBFI then activated my monitor "MPRT" mode.
Almost feels like playing on a CRT, but can it damage my LCD?
Re: Almost feels like playing on a CRT, but can it damage my LCD?
In LCD it's usually not "black frame insertion" that is happening, but backlight strobing.
In other word, you don't get 140 real frames and 140 black frames like you would on an OLED, instead, the backlight strobes 240 times at a very short and bright pulse, reducing persistence blur.
That's good news regarding motion clarity, with a good implementation of backlight strobing, you don't need a lot of hz to match CRT, which is far far more that 240hz equivalent motion clarity (more like 1000hz equivalent).
With a great strobed LCD, you of course don't get the contrast or pixel response time of OLED, but you get a motion clarity that goes beyond what the best OLED on the market offer (I believe there is a 1440p 480hz OLED monitor, perhaps a few faster 1080p models, but good luck getting the real framerate to match these refresh rates => they would likely require black frame insertion and/or frame-generation to fill those 480hz without duplicate frames).
I have an Asus PG27VQ that has perfect motion at >1000pixel/sec (via Nvidia's proprietary ULMB strobing mode), even when hacked to work at 60hz (though resulting in strong flickering at that refresh).
Speaking of, does your "BFI" mode has a specific brand name? ULMB? ELMB? PureXP,...?
Edit: because you're currently set at 240hz, you will get duplicate frames artifacts whenever you don't reach 240fps, therefore you should try the lowest refresh rates that still supports your strobing mode.
Again for instance, my PG27VQ is a max 165hz refresh rate monitor, but only supports ULMB at 120, 100, and 85hz. Using the CRU app, I hacked it to "sacrifice" 85hz strobing to get 60hz strobing instead (there's a guide floating out there).
In other word, you don't get 140 real frames and 140 black frames like you would on an OLED, instead, the backlight strobes 240 times at a very short and bright pulse, reducing persistence blur.
That's good news regarding motion clarity, with a good implementation of backlight strobing, you don't need a lot of hz to match CRT, which is far far more that 240hz equivalent motion clarity (more like 1000hz equivalent).
With a great strobed LCD, you of course don't get the contrast or pixel response time of OLED, but you get a motion clarity that goes beyond what the best OLED on the market offer (I believe there is a 1440p 480hz OLED monitor, perhaps a few faster 1080p models, but good luck getting the real framerate to match these refresh rates => they would likely require black frame insertion and/or frame-generation to fill those 480hz without duplicate frames).
I have an Asus PG27VQ that has perfect motion at >1000pixel/sec (via Nvidia's proprietary ULMB strobing mode), even when hacked to work at 60hz (though resulting in strong flickering at that refresh).
Speaking of, does your "BFI" mode has a specific brand name? ULMB? ELMB? PureXP,...?
Edit: because you're currently set at 240hz, you will get duplicate frames artifacts whenever you don't reach 240fps, therefore you should try the lowest refresh rates that still supports your strobing mode.
Again for instance, my PG27VQ is a max 165hz refresh rate monitor, but only supports ULMB at 120, 100, and 85hz. Using the CRU app, I hacked it to "sacrifice" 85hz strobing to get 60hz strobing instead (there's a guide floating out there).
Last edited by JimProfit on 18 Jan 2025, 07:36, edited 1 time in total.
LG OLED65G1 - LG OLED55GX - Panasonic 58EX780E - Pioneer KRP500A - Sony D24E1WE (ooo) - Toshiba 288DF
Asus PG27VQ - Asus PG278QR - Sony FW900 - Iiyama HM204DT - Mitsubishi 2070SB
Asus PG27VQ - Asus PG278QR - Sony FW900 - Iiyama HM204DT - Mitsubishi 2070SB
Re: Almost feels like playing on a CRT, but can it damage my LCD?
Steam • GitHub • Stack Overflow
The views and opinions expressed in my posts are my own and do not necessarily reflect the official policy or position of Blur Busters.
The views and opinions expressed in my posts are my own and do not necessarily reflect the official policy or position of Blur Busters.
Re: Almost feels like playing on a CRT, but can it damage my LCD?
Oh ok I didn't catch that.RealNC wrote: ↑18 Jan 2025, 07:30He's combining DesktopBFI together with strobing.
(https://github.com/squeaksci/desktopbfi)
The point still stands though, if the "MPRT" mode still offers good results alone at a lower refresh, it should be considered in real life scenarios.
Right now, I of course use 120hz ULMB in PC games that allow me a matching framerate, in emulators and other games stuck at 60fps, I either go hacked 60hz ULMB, or Lossless Scaling @120hz ULMB (if I play a very bright game where frame-gen artifacts are preferable to 60hz flickering).
LG OLED65G1 - LG OLED55GX - Panasonic 58EX780E - Pioneer KRP500A - Sony D24E1WE (ooo) - Toshiba 288DF
Asus PG27VQ - Asus PG278QR - Sony FW900 - Iiyama HM204DT - Mitsubishi 2070SB
Asus PG27VQ - Asus PG278QR - Sony FW900 - Iiyama HM204DT - Mitsubishi 2070SB