Blur Busters Forums

Waiting for local sales is preferable to shipping -- it costs several hundreds to ship overseas. Ouch.

I have a tentative local loan from spacediver, but I'd love a permanent specimen (a model matching one in flood's cherrypick list) as i now have the laboratory space for a permanent 'reference' CRT.

well like
crt's are great and all but for purely testing purposes, i don't see the benefit of specifically using a top of the line crt.

like
all crt's have 0 input lag
persistence/motion blur for crt's doesn't depend on refresh rate in any way
some crt's might have shorter persistence phosphors but i don't think any particular one is outstanding

I've been wondering: maybe the clarity of CRT (apart of its technology) could be related to having a "glass"?
I think it could be that because of an article i read some time ago. I never liked glossy TFTs but with the CRT i don't see it as "reflective" as these glossy screens that are almost mirrors, and on that article seems it has a glossy layer but better (no idea why don't do more with these).

As you know a lot (as you showed on last pages of the thread ), maybe you know about this too .

ya crt's have a film with an antireflective coating (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anti-reflective_coating). (totally different from the antiglare on most lcd's). it's similar to the coating on eyeglasses.

if you look a specular reflection from a crt, it will appear blue because of this.

I've seen that type of coating on camera lenses more often than eyeglasses.

I'd like to see a LCD with a glass (and the coating you comment) and see it improves somehow (and i'll be easier to clean ).

By the way is there any easy way to find if a CRT is good (without looking for its specs on internet)? or it is a list somewhere of good CRTs? (just in case i find one to know if it is worthy) .
I guess that it must have flat screen-glass, but apart of that i have no idea .

age/condition of tube is more important than the specific model

aside from that, the most important metric is the max hsync rate. look for something >100kHz, this determines the maximum product of (vertical resolution)*(refresh rate)

aperture grill (sony trinitron mitsubishi diamondtron or rebrands) is probably better than shadow mask

flood wrote:age/condition of tube is more important than the specific model

aside from that, the most important metric is the max hsync rate. look for something >100kHz, this determines the maximum product of (vertical resolution)*(refresh rate)

aperture grill (sony trinitron mitsubishi diamondtron or rebrands) is probably better than shadow mask

Is there a way to see the hoizontal sync rate on the back lavel? Is the line i see of "100-240V 50-60Hz 1.5A" (guess it must show 50-100Hz or something like that)?

The problem can be to know the age of the tube, guess the only way is to plug in to a computer and check if it leaves the phosphor ghosting, as i read in another thread that the older they are the more clear it is.

I'll have to search info about the aperture grill and the other things you mention .

Thanks for the detailed answer .

look for a number that ends in "kHz". generally, larger crt's have higher hsync rates.

phosphor ghosting doesn't depend on tube age.

i'm not sure if it's possible to determine the tube condition before buying a monitor (other than asking the seller how much it's been used... which he might not even know if he's not the original owner). For trinitrons, there are some metrics that may be used if you go through the white point balance procedure in WINDAS

flood wrote:look for a number that ends in "kHz". generally, larger crt's have higher hsync rates.

phosphor ghosting doesn't depend on tube age.

i'm not sure if it's possible to determine the tube condition before buying a monitor (other than asking the seller how much it's been used... which he might not even know if he's not the original owner). For trinitrons, there are some metrics that may be used if you go through the white point balance procedure in WINDAS

I think my """plan""" (xD) would be check the external condition, size (the biggest the better) and date on the back label, and thanks to you tips i'll look for sony (and its rebrands -I think Dell uses trinitron too-) and mitsubishi diamondtron, don't think i can check anything else without plugin it to a computer. And i'll try to get it the cheapest possible, just in case .


Thank you for the great tips .