My experience with all sorts of Problems regularly mentioned here.

[ChristophSmaul1337]

Did you get the smooth feeling instantly or did you adjust any settings etc?

Yes, it happens instantaneously. I have to do nothing more than unplug the new PSU, plug in any other unit (no matter which one, as long as it isn't the 1200W part) and it's immediately back to sh*t. No other settings, no other hardware change.

Do you use usb type c connector too?

Not regularly or to do anything related to this topic/problem. I charge my iPhone on that port from time to time, but not when playing games. So for all intents and purposes, no, the USB-C port isn't occupied.

[cursed-gamer]

I bought 1300W ultra high quality PSU. For the first few hours the game was different, I can say it was really good, but all issues came back like usual. Anyway I am not going to return it because it will be useful for new build.

BTW. If you're convinced that it's something about grounding, then you can test it easily (only when you live in a house with backyard). Buy grounding rod, few meters of a 2,5 mm^2 wire and modify outlet in the way, that it will be separated from main PE. Keep in mind that grounding rod must be buried quite deep in the ground and away from your main grounding rod (to avoid ground loop). It's gonna be much cheaper than buying anything else.

[nannii]

Hey man, not that it matters 99%, but are you using single rail or multi rail behind the PSU?

[Kipperii]

I bought 1300W ultra high quality PSU. For the first few hours the game was different, I can say it was really good, but all issues came back like usual. Anyway I am not going to return it because it will be useful for new build.

BTW. If you're convinced that it's something about grounding, then you can test it easily (only when you live in a house with backyard). Buy grounding rod, few meters of a 2,5 mm^2 wire and modify outlet in the way, that it will be separated from main PE. Keep in mind that grounding rod must be buried quite deep in the ground and away from your main grounding rod (to avoid ground loop). It's gonna be much cheaper than buying anything else.

Indeed, regardless of whether the problem is solved in the end, buying a new high-quality PSU will be a good investment, at least you will use it when upgrading your computer in the future.

[ChristophSmaul1337]

I bought 1300W ultra high quality PSU. For the first few hours the game was different, I can say it was really good, but all issues came back like usual. Anyway I am not going to return it because it will be useful for new build.

Thought so. I'm pretty sure that your kind of problems are at least somewhat different from what I have. For you it always comes back, for me it's not changing without me actually changing the hardware. It's manifesting in different ways for sure. Good luck on finding a solution for your problem, too.

BTW. If you're convinced that it's something about grounding, then you can test it easily (only when you live in a house with backyard).

I'm pretty sure that in my case, it has nothing to do with grounding. Over the years I've had multiple electricians look at the installation and they all came to the conclusion that everything is wired correctly and working as intended. My house definitely has grounding and it's up to the standards. If you suspect grounding issues, it's never a bad idea to call the electrician to check.

I'm just gonna say the obvious, but please don't screw around with your outlets unless you know exactly what you're doing. 240V can instantaneously kill you, and so can 120V. You don't want to play around with this stuff, please be careful.

Hey man, not that it matters 99%, but are you using single rail or multi rail behind the PSU?

I'm not sure, for all I know it could very much matter, and indeed I do have a few multirail and a few singlerail units. The current 1200W one is a [multirail] (original wording: "singlerail", which is wrong) PSU, the previously used 850W was also a multirail unit.

Obviously, if you're using multirail PSUs you need to make sure your components don't overload a rail. I'll quickly explain it, in case someone doesn't know about this. Let's use a 700W unit as an example, one I've also tested before. It has 2 12V rails, 12V1 and 12V2. As per the label, the 12V1 rail can deliver 36A and the 12V2 rail can deliver 30A. The manual tells me which connectors are on which rail, in this case the 12V1 rail consists of the 24pin, drives and one GPU PCIe 8-pin connector. The 12V2 rail consists of the CPU EPS 8-Pin and the other GPU 8-pin PCIe connector.
Let's say that my computer undergoes a worst-case scenario, full load on CPU and GPU. Again, the CPU can reach up to 250W, and the GPU with stock settings goes to 300W. This makes 550W in total, and adding the rest-of-system power of about 100W would tell me that this 700W is enough even under full load, when viewed in a "traditional" sense. But because it's a multirail PSU, it's actually not. As stated on the label, the 12V2 rail can deliver 30A, which is 360W (12V*30A). The 12V2 rail has to deliver power to one of the 8-pins and the CPU, so it needs to be able to deliver 250W (CPU) plus another 150W (max. rating on one 8-pin GPU connector). This would mean that, under the maximum load worst-case scenario, the 12V2 rail would be loaded with 400W, which is 40W more than it can actually deliver. This would overload the PSU, even though the total wattage of 700W was never exceeded. When you use a multirail PSU it's important that you do these calculations for yourself, to see if you exceed the capacity of one of the 12V rails. In my case, I know about this and I've done all my tests with the proper power limits in place to not overload the rails.

Indeed, regardless of whether the problem is solved in the end, buying a new high-quality PSU will be a good investment, at least you will use it when upgrading your computer in the future.

That is true and while not suggesting that you're buying a new PSU to "solve" your specific problems, it is still advisable to get a good quality PSU for your computer. I've had one CPU and GPU killed by a PSU un-aliving itself. It's never a bad idea to get a quality unit to prevent damage towards the rest of the system.

[nannii]

I mean there is a physical switch behind the PSU, you can choose whether single rail or multirail, what do you have there?

[ChristophSmaul1337]

I mean there is a physical switch behind the PSU, you can choose whether single rail or multirail, what do you have there?

Ah, got it. I didn't even know it had that switch, never noticed it. It came with the switch set to "Multiple" (so I stand corrected, the current PSU is actually multirail), and I've also just now tried to use it in "Single", there isn't a difference in behaviour. Both feel perfect.

[Misha1337]

I mean there is a physical switch behind the PSU, you can choose whether single rail or multirail, what do you have there?

Ah, got it. I didn't even know it had that switch, never noticed it. It came with the switch set to "Multiple" (so I stand corrected, the current PSU is actually multirail), and I've also just now tried to use it in "Single", there isn't a difference in behaviour. Both feel perfect.

Can you mention your exact name of the PSU you bought?

[donktuman]

ah damn it. i just realised ive bought hx1200i not hx1200. its different PSU. can anyone else confirm that hx1200 dont work for them?

[Thatweirdinputlag]

ah damn it. i just realised ive bought hx1200i not hx1200. its different PSU. can anyone else confirm that hx1200 dont work for them?

2 other members I know of "one had it already" and the other one purchased it and it did not help. As OP stated, numerous times, don't rush into buying this unit or at least make sure that a good return policy comes with it.