My experience with all sorts of Problems regularly mentioned here.

[cursed-gamer]

I don't know what is your point guys. Install PopOS if you blame windows for everything. If you'll face the same issues on PopOS, it means it's not operating system related. That's it.

[themagic]

I have ordered the same PSU - Corsair HX1200. I face the same problems as the OP. Did everything. [...] try not getting my money wasted as there is no return policy here in my country.

Good luck mate. I really hope it does something for you, although I'm not confident it'll do anything at all. But, considering your computers are super high-end, I don't think it's a bad idea to invest in a quality PSU in the first place. These great components deserve a high quality device. So even if it doesn't fix the problem, in my opinion it's not a waste of money. To find a tinly silver lining. Not having a return policy certainly is strange.

If new PSU would'nt help, you can leave it for your brand new configuration, and next time use Windows Box Retail bought directly from Microsoft only, and use Usb stick from package on the very first hardware installation with minimalistic setup(without any ARGB controllers).

Damn dude.

You believe what you say youtself ? there guys who suffer issues for many years and probably of them dont had 5$ WIN KEYS. this all problem started even back with windows 7.

I feel like this discussion is a little bit futile, innit? If Windows was to blame, millions of people would have this problem all the time and there would be a HUGE outrage about it. With how aggressively these third party key shops, where you can buy a Windows license for a few bucks, are being promoted on YouTube at times you'd think at least a few hundred thousand if not millions of users would be on such a "key". I'm not convinced that everybody who's on such a key has these issues. To go further into this logic, if you download Windows 10, or 11, from Microsoft themselves, their very own website, you can install it on any computer and use it without even activating it. It's an almost fully-functional OS that lacks the ability to customize some settings when not activated. A few friends, who don't have any problems whatsoever, play on a non-activated Windows and in every recording, the watermark "Activate Windows" is visible. Heck, even I'm on a 5€ Windows 10 key and - after replacing the PSU - everything is exactly how it should be now.

What drives this OS-thing home for me is that you can easily and trivially test for this by yourself. We're in a lucky position that Windows now has great competition in terms of gaming. Gaming on Linux isn't a niche thing anymore and it's getting more and more common. Many games on Steam run natively on Linux, without needing any "workarounds" or similar stuff. Simply install Linux, install steam, download a game and play it. Counter-Strike is a good example and it also just happens to be a perfect game to test on if you're still suffering from problems, as it has a decent netcode. If issues are still present on Linux, it's very likely that problems are not going to stem from the OS. If you find yourself with perfect gameplay on Linux but not on Windows, you might be onto something and there might be incentive to investigate further.

the only thing that doesn't add up here is the deterioration of lod, flickering and pop-in textures.
There is absolutely no solution to this, but I think that this has nothing to do with smoothness, although there may be one root.
The idea with a license key is the craziest idea that has ever been on this forum. For some reason, the dude thinks that something inside the PC “does not start” or is not activated, but this is nonsense.
If it were right, MS would make billions of trillions of dollars because everyone would know that the license will make your PC "healthy".
The only thing I agree with him on is that the problem may be inside the PC components.
From a ton of messages, I saw how two people solved the problem with image blur, bad lod, pop in, by reinstalling windows.
In one case, a person installed a cropped pirated win10 home, in another case it was an MCT installation, through another person’s PC with a “licensed system”.

i notice that i have same issue with my picture and textures...even then if fps is high 200-300fps but it just feels worng and same bullshit happens to my hitreg and my timing are just messed up completely in online games. unplayable in such state. everything just feels wrong whe n join an online game. i cant rly describe this feeling but its all messed up since that day this issue hit me...

[Tuhin Lavania]

I have ordered the same PSU - Corsair HX1200. I face the same problems as the OP. Did everything. [...] try not getting my money wasted as there is no return policy here in my country.

Good luck mate. I really hope it does something for you, although I'm not confident it'll do anything at all. But, considering your computers are super high-end, I don't think it's a bad idea to invest in a quality PSU in the first place. These great components deserve a high quality device. So even if it doesn't fix the problem, in my opinion it's not a waste of money. To find a tinly silver lining. Not having a return policy certainly is strange.





Im the same person ( The Malpractice ) who replied earlier. This is my older account, i had forgotten credentials of this one so made that new account, but now somehow i remembered so i logged in lol.

To be really honest i have very very less hopes that it might do something better but ive spent so much money and time on this that it doesnt matter spending some more on this PSU. Moreover if it doesnt work i can keep the Corsair for another build or my existing ( 1300W ) for that case.
I dont want to explain my problems coz its going to take a lot of time, and in short its just basically your problem. Enemies behaving like superhumans, firing faster than possible in game. For years i believed this is network issue, isp quality is not up to the mark, i still believe it, but after changing so many isps ( ftth connections ) i think the problem might be elsewhere, not entirely rubbing off poor network quality which is possible. I also have tested three network cards ( Intel i210-t1 consumer grade, server grade and Asus XG C100C which im using now ) in hopes of eliminating this problem, nothing helps.

I also did not reply to that dude who said about Windows keys and all that and frankly i dont have the energy and time to deal with those kind of answers. i prefer to not answer anything.
Regarding return policy, i live in India and people here try to scam companies who once offered return policy on items, so most of the companies here have stopped providing that, infact i hear they are also going to stop Cash on Delivery in some time, including Amazon India which is right coz if the people are like that then companies have to improvise.
So yeah, the PSU should be here by Monday or max Tuesday. Like i said i have slim hopes that it will improve things but if i hadnt bought it then FOMO would have kicked in haha. So i had to test it.

[ChristophSmaul1337]

Good evening everyone. I've got another update for you in my situation, and also got some good information from a friend.

For starters, my setup still works good and all is well. It has been like this since swapping PSUs so, as expected, it's still fine.

Now for another idea i can throw in for people to try. This comes with a lot of caveats.
I was on a phone call with a friend that I knew for a long, long time. We haven't spoken in about 10 years but he knows I had all these weird issues. I still remember him saying something like "let's hope I'll never get this sh*t, it sounds infuriating".

We talked earlier, and the reason he called me was that he's had the exact same problems happen to him. Surprisingly, he didn't phone me up to ask me for a solution; he's gotten his own solution that I'm relaying to you guys.

My friend has been living in a single-family home, just like me. He had a fairly small house and apparently a few years ago, he got engaged. The couple needed more space in the house so they decided on a house extension. All was built and well, but according to his memory, the moment the house extension was done his problems started to appear. It coincided exactly. As he was confused and remembered what I told him, he immediately turned towards his electrical system and assumed that somebody had done an oopsie while wiring up the house extension. He called multiple electricians, just for the first 3 to tell him that everything looks good and the wiring is up to par. Only the 4th electrician told him what a problem could be.

See, here in Germany, we usually get 3-phase power to the building. Each phase is carrying 240V against neutral and 400V phase to phase, as the phases are shifted 120° against each other. As virtually no residential home is in actual need of 3-phase power (apart from maybe the oven or the electric stove), the common practice is to separate the 3 phases out and balance the load of the whole houre across them. This makes wiring easier, you need only 3 wires to an outlet: Live (L), neutral (N) and protective earth (PE). Now, the load across all 3 phases should ideally be balanced out. The electrician wiring up my friend's house extension apparently wasn't aware of this, he just placed all the circuits onto the same phase. Don't confuse this with circuit breakers, that was all done correctly with more than enough breakers, and you wouldn't know from just looking at the breaker box.

Now, there are a ton of caveats to this. First off, there are ways to measure which outlets/circuits are on which phase, how much load is on each phase and so on. But, I'm not going to leave any tutorial here, because I just don't want to be held accountable for people un-aliving themselves by inappropriately trying to stick various measuring devices into their electrical panel. If you're living in a 240V country, you have a house where you're in control of your meter and breaker box (unlike for example in a rented flat or similar), you're certian that you get 3-phase power to your house, you're absolutely certain that you have weird problems like wonky hitreg, bad synchronization and so on, and these problems and their intensity vary throughout the day, then you might want to consider calling an electrician to check specifically for balancing the load across the phases. My friend got that fixed up, and now he's problem-free again.

For the usual described issues where the behaviour changes over time, this may make sense. Assuming the load across the three phases is perfectly balanced and all loads are of the same type (ohmic e.g.), then there shouldn't be any current flowing on the neutral (N) wire. This is because the phases are shifted across each other by 120°, cancelling each other out. The starpoint of the transformer becomes the neutral in this imaginary, perfect situation, and therefore no neutral (N) wire would be needed. As the real world isn't perfect, you do need a neutral (N) wire. When the load across the phases isn't balanced, or you're connecting different "kind" of loads, e.g. ohmic and capacitive loads, there is a compensating current flowing on the neutral (N) wire. As the imbalance gets bigger, the compensating current also increases. The excess presence of these compenstaing currents may or may not be responsible for problems observed.

As many people described, their gameplay improves drastically over the evening, peaks at night and then returns to being crap during the day. During the day the entire apartment complex you might live in is using the electricity, and since the load across the phases is supposedly imbalanced, it creates more compensating currents. If this actually would be true and the cause of problems, I'm not sure how to fix it if you're in an apartment building and your landlord is in charge of maintaining the electrical installation.

Another caveat: This is hearsay, and I can't confirm or deny what he actually did or didn't do. There might have been more factors in play, this is just what he told me. It sounds reasonable enough for me to post it here. I'm also aware that this solution has been suggested before and hasn't lead to anyting. Nonetheless, I'm throwing it out there so you can think about it and draw your own conclusions from it.

I've said it before, and I'm saying it again: Don't stick measuring devices into your electrical panel, or anywhere near live voltage. DO NOT DO IT. One wrong move can literally kill you. Again, if the above description is reminiscent of your situation, consider calling an electrician and have it checked out for you. Only check on your own if you're one hundred thousand percent sure what you're doing. I'm in no way, shape or form responsible if you decide to stick your multimeter into an outlet and seriously hurt yourself in the process.

For all the other replies concerning OSes, I'm not going to say anything more, as I don't have any more to add. All I can think of has been said in my original response.

[Thatweirdinputlag]

Good evening everyone. I've got another update for you in my situation, and also got some good information from a friend.

For starters, my setup still works good and all is well. It has been like this since swapping PSUs so, as expected, it's still fine.

Now for another idea i can throw in for people to try. This comes with a lot of caveats.
I was on a phone call with a friend that I knew for a long, long time. We haven't spoken in about 10 years but he knows I had all these weird issues. I still remember him saying something like "let's hope I'll never get this sh*t, it sounds infuriating".

We talked earlier, and the reason he called me was that he's had the exact same problems happen to him. Surprisingly, he didn't phone me up to ask me for a solution; he's gotten his own solution that I'm relaying to you guys.

My friend has been living in a single-family home, just like me. He had a fairly small house and apparently a few years ago, he got engaged. The couple needed more space in the house so they decided on a house extension. All was built and well, but according to his memory, the moment the house extension was done his problems started to appear. It coincided exactly. As he was confused and remembered what I told him, he immediately turned towards his electrical system and assumed that somebody had done an oopsie while wiring up the house extension. He called multiple electricians, just for the first 3 to tell him that everything looks good and the wiring is up to par. Only the 4th electrician told him what a problem could be.

See, here in Germany, we usually get 3-phase power to the building. Each phase is carrying 240V against neutral and 400V phase to phase, as the phases are shifted 120° against each other. As virtually no residential home is in actual need of 3-phase power (apart from maybe the oven or the electric stove), the common practice is to separate the 3 phases out and balance the load of the whole houre across them. This makes wiring easier, you need only 3 wires to an outlet: Live (L), neutral (N) and protective earth (PE). Now, the load across all 3 phases should ideally be balanced out. The electrician wiring up my friend's house extension apparently wasn't aware of this, he just placed all the circuits onto the same phase. Don't confuse this with circuit breakers, that was all done correctly with more than enough breakers, and you wouldn't know from just looking at the breaker box.

Now, there are a ton of caveats to this. First off, there are ways to measure which outlets/circuits are on which phase, how much load is on each phase and so on. But, I'm not going to leave any tutorial here, because I just don't want to be held accountable for people un-aliving themselves by inappropriately trying to stick various measuring devices into their electrical panel. If you're living in a 240V country, you have a house where you're in control of your meter and breaker box (unlike for example in a rented flat or similar), you're certian that you get 3-phase power to your house, you're absolutely certain that you have weird problems like wonky hitreg, bad synchronization and so on, and these problems and their intensity vary throughout the day, then you might want to consider calling an electrician to check specifically for balancing the load across the phases. My friend got that fixed up, and now he's problem-free again.

For the usual described issues where the behaviour changes over time, this may make sense. Assuming the load across the three phases is perfectly balanced and all loads are of the same type (ohmic e.g.), then there shouldn't be any current flowing on the neutral (N) wire. This is because the phases are shifted across each other by 120°, cancelling each other out. The starpoint of the transformer becomes the neutral in this imaginary, perfect situation, and therefore no neutral (N) wire would be needed. As the real world isn't perfect, you do need a neutral (N) wire. When the load across the phases isn't balanced, or you're connecting different "kind" of loads, e.g. ohmic and capacitive loads, there is a compensating current flowing on the neutral (N) wire. As the imbalance gets bigger, the compensating current also increases. The excess presence of these compenstaing currents may or may not be responsible for problems observed.

As many people described, their gameplay improves drastically over the evening, peaks at night and then returns to being crap during the day. During the day the entire apartment complex you might live in is using the electricity, and since the load across the phases is supposedly imbalanced, it creates more compensating currents. If this actually would be true and the cause of problems, I'm not sure how to fix it if you're in an apartment building and your landlord is in charge of maintaining the electrical installation.

Another caveat: This is hearsay, and I can't confirm or deny what he actually did or didn't do. There might have been more factors in play, this is just what he told me. It sounds reasonable enough for me to post it here. I'm also aware that this solution has been suggested before and hasn't lead to anyting. Nonetheless, I'm throwing it out there so you can think about it and draw your own conclusions from it.

I've said it before, and I'm saying it again: Don't stick measuring devices into your electrical panel, or anywhere near live voltage. DO NOT DO IT. One wrong move can literally kill you. Again, if the above description is reminiscent of your situation, consider calling an electrician and have it checked out for you. Only check on your own if you're one hundred thousand percent sure what you're doing. I'm in no way, shape or form responsible if you decide to stick your multimeter into an outlet and seriously hurt yourself in the process.

For all the other replies concerning OSes, I'm not going to say anything more, as I don't have any more to add. All I can think of has been said in my original response.

I like how you explained your mate's fix in one paragraph and the other 7 paragraphs are just disclaimers and warnings lol. Thanks for sharing mate, definitely something to consider.

I have a good Grounding system installed here, and since it's a TT electrical system, the grounding system is isolated. I can just switch the neutral with the ground on a separate extending wire, isolate that ground from the rest of the socket and have a direct wire connected to a single 2Meter rod in the backyard to act as the return path. This method has its own issues ofc, but for short-time testing purposes and in the name of science, we shall do. Oh, and I'll also need to replace the circuit's RCBO with a normal breaker, and disconnect the main RCD as those will instantly trip. Now as I think of it, it might be too much work.

[Z3CrosS]

.

[ChristophSmaul1337]

Interesting post. Lots to be deciphered here. Even though I didn't want to engage with these comments again, I'll still do for this one. It's great.

I gave you direct fix to this issue: buy new hardware from respected vendors - and on first installation use Boxed Windows from this stick bought directly from Microsoft (to avoid Scum), and each time after, if you want to reinstall OS you have to provide installation from same usb stick.

Already explained this. I had the same, or at least very similar issues to what all the other people have in here. In my case, it's fully fixed. There isn't any weird stuff, not once have I seen anything wrong since replacing my PSU. I can safely assume that for me, overspeccing on the PSU is a definitive solution and it has nothing to do with the OS. I own a 5€ key from a "dodgy" shop, I've never used Microsoft's own USB stick yet still everything works just fine. All of my friends, who don't even know these problems exist, also use these dodgy keys. Not a singluar person I've ever talked to about computers has an official Microsoft key.

Monitor and Router its PCIE lane, which connected directly to CPU.

Wrong. I'm not sure what you mean by "router", but nothing you could refer to is directly connected to the CPU PCIe lanes unless you have a very specific server motherboard with a weird PCIe lane configuration. Assuming "router" means "network interface card", then no, for 99% of users, the LAN port on your computer is connected to the PCH, which isn't the CPU directly. Mainstream CPU's from Intel or AMD have usually 16 PCIe lanes, all of which go directly to the GPU. Everything else is connected via the PCH.

About 5$ keys and youtuber which was payed to promote this, it's all Dublicated non legit keys, which was stolen or duplicated or runs on a multiple machines in the same time

Correct. They're paid to promote it, and hundreds of thousands of people buy from these stores. There's probably millions of non-legit keys around. And you really think that every user who's bought one of these non-legit keys has latency issues? I don't think so, because if that was the case, we wouldn't be in a subsection of a subsection of a specialized forum, but on reddit, Tom's Hardware, OCN etc. and posts would get millions of views, replies and attention. There would be outrage after outrage and Microsoft would be forced to fix it. Yet, the issues we're having aren't mainstream and they're not at all wide-spread bug highly localized and sporadic. Meanwhile, non-legit keys and OEM keys are super common. It's not adding up.

About PopsOS, your hardware is damaged - badly configuered from the start

My hardware certainly isn't damaged and I can run benchmarks and stress tests to definitively prove it. It's running fine, and the hardware of millions of other players is also running fine, even on custom OSes. It's also properly configured, I know what every single setting in my BIOS does and what it controls. I can say with absolute certainty that everything is configured exactly like it's supposed to be.

I gave you direct salvation for free to help, how to fully fix this - but you are ignoring or laughing on it

Nobody is laughing about you or your solution, I'm just uttering my concerns with your ideas since it seems they have a few logic flaws. I would be happy to be proven wrong and I'd love to hear from you what you're saying regarding my previous concerns. Instead, you're not even citing me (or anybody) on my previous posts and you're defaulting towards a defensive stance. Let's discuss your ideas, that's what a forum is for. Discussion involves responding to each other and having a discourse. What it's not for is to simply state your stance as fact, without allowing for discussion and looking down upon people who question your ideas. Please be reasonable and have some basic form of self-reflection.

It's not Windows or MacOS or Linux issue, it's user issue.

Can you prove or at least support this claim with any kind of evidence or observations?

And all this EMI niche forum with "Input Lag Anomaly"(people even cannot properly name this issue - it's Latencies issues caused by damaged hardware) - its comedian forum with uneducated people who washes out brains of normal people.

You call people, who're having a civilized discussion about a very much real problem - EMI - uneducated. But at the same time you're spitting in our face by calling us uneducated and slurs. It's a bit hypocritical, to say the least. Nobody is trying to brainwash people, but we're trying to converge onto finding a solution for a long existing problem. After trying so much and by trial and error, you'll eventually be able to isloate problems and exclude different things from the equation. People have for example tried gaming on Linux, and it's showing the same issues for some. Let's make another example from every-day PC building. You don't have to believe me about this, just go to your next PC repair shop and ask them. Unless you think they're also trying to brainwash you. If your PC breaks and you bring it into a shop, your agent will try to single out the faulty hardware by swapping in and out parts one by one. He'll maybe start with the CPU. Swapping in a new CPU still doesn't fix the problem and so he turns towards the GPU. He swaps in a new GPU and the computer now works, and when swapping in the old GPU it doesn't work anymore. What's the conclusion from that? Exactly, the old GPU was faulty and needs replaced. The CPU was never the problem.

Projecting this to our input-lag problems, if wer're swapping out a "part", let's say the operating system, and the problem is still there, we can conclude that it's not the operating system causing the problem. It's basic troubleshooting. Again, ask any PC repair shop and every sane technician would think and act like this.

Money without brain not help.

Goes both ways. Throwing money at Microsoft for an official license won't do anything without actual conlcusive evidence that any other version of Windows is somehow "corrupted", or whatever you're implying.

they became monkeys in 2024y

you are uneducated persons

I'm not going to report your post for this, although you would certainly deserve it, alongside with some cooldown time, IMHO. Because I don't want this thread to be closed just yet, I'm not going to do it. But, I'm also not going to be content with you calling me - or any other member here - a "monkey" or "uneducated" without having any knowledge about my, or anybody else's educational background. Keep it civil or I'll be forced to report eventually. Your choice of words is irreverent at best. Never talk to me, or anybody else for that matter, like that again.

[Tuhin Lavania]

@ OP
You are wasting your time with this guy. Better to ignore.

[Slender]

the truth is somewhere in the middle

[Kipperii]

Please administrators do not stop this post because someone suddenly becomes crazy. Please just ignore him. Too many valuable posts have been stopped due to malicious sabotage.