Input lag disappears for ~30 seconds when plug OR unplug any USB.

[JimCarry]

For most things that happen over time i'm inclined to believe is a memory leak.

could be https://www.reddit.com/r/windowsinsider ... tting_out/

but who knows at this point. its a shit show.

this is interesting

[Hyote]

For most things that happen over time i'm inclined to believe is a memory leak.

could be https://www.reddit.com/r/windowsinsider ... tting_out/

but who knows at this point. its a shit show.

It can be asked why the same lag is present in Linux X11 and on other devices but if we strictly want to look at Windows I'd say DWM is 99.9% not a culprit of any kind of lag. I've been using all my Windows builds without DWM for years now with the exception of a few games where I need to turn it back on, and I never noticed a difference in responsiveness. As much randomness as Windows has going on under its hood, I have to admit that it's surprisingly stable even if you make heavy modifications.

[DMNCS]

Unfortunately I'm 95% sure my issues are actually electricity related. I'm using KirbyOS, my windows is pretty much tweaked to perfection, same with bios, RAM timings etc. Tested so many things when it comes to software that I'm sure it's not that. When the PSU discharges and I boot it for the first time after that, it's insane how responsive it is, unlike any PC caffe I have been at. It sometimes gets a little better, sometimes worse, but the issue is always there. I've tried leaving ethernet cable unplugged and there is no change. I've tried multiple outlets in different rooms - no change. Tomorrow I'm going to check grounding (outlet, PC case, motherboard etc) and let you know. If the grounding seems fine, I don't know what else to try other than getting a double conversion UPS.

[InputLagger]

Unfortunately I'm 95% sure my issues are actually electricity related. I'm using KirbyOS, my windows is pretty much tweaked to perfection, same with bios, RAM timings etc. Tested so many things when it comes to software that I'm sure it's not that. When the PSU discharges and I boot it for the first time after that, it's insane how responsive it is, unlike any PC caffe I have been at. It sometimes gets a little better, sometimes worse, but the issue is always there. I've tried leaving ethernet cable unplugged and there is no change. I've tried multiple outlets in different rooms - no change. Tomorrow I'm going to check grounding (outlet, PC case, motherboard etc) and let you know. If the grounding seems fine, I don't know what else to try other than getting a double conversion UPS.

Try this viewtopic.php?f=24&t=13054

[kyube]

Unfortunately I'm 95% sure my issues are actually electricity related. I'm using KirbyOS, my windows is pretty much tweaked to perfection, same with bios, RAM timings etc. Tested so many things when it comes to software that I'm sure it's not that. When the PSU discharges and I boot it for the first time after that, it's insane how responsive it is, unlike any PC caffe I have been at. It sometimes gets a little better, sometimes worse, but the issue is always there. I've tried leaving ethernet cable unplugged and there is no change. I've tried multiple outlets in different rooms - no change. Tomorrow I'm going to check grounding (outlet, PC case, motherboard etc) and let you know. If the grounding seems fine, I don't know what else to try other than getting a double conversion UPS.

>"tweaked to perfection"
>uses bottom tier b660 motherboard with a 13700, with no mention of cooling solution and (very likely) unstable RAM. to top it all off, a bottom tier 650w PSU which chokes all components for stutter fiesta
>compensates for shit HW choices by using a custom OS, which spams Event Viewer with a million different errors, thus creating SW overhead and causing severe stuttering
>no dpc/isr data from ETL logs to check for errors or any kind of presentmon data
>no mxa troubleshooting from ETL logs to check for errors
>permanently GPU limited with a 3060ti in CS2, which struggles with even a 4090 to push good FPS at low latency (low GPU usage)

The confidence in these EMI diagnoses & the trolling in this subforum by some users is surreal sometimes.

And no, before someone tries to spin this as a "low price budget diss" attempt, I'm stating that the funds were incorrectly used for what the goal was, very likely out of ignorance on the fact that hardware choices make or break your entire computing experience.
I assume you've been misled by the sheer amount of misinformation online, which some malicious users (so called "professional tweakers") on purposely push to rack in cash from laymen by purporting these trivial issues as grand.

Instead of running in circles, do proper troubleshooting steps and/or read resources such as:
https://calypto.us
https://github.com/valleyofdoom/PC-Tuning
https://github.com/BoringBoredom/PC-Optimization-Hub
https://github.com/djdallmann/GamingPCSetup

In your case, i'd consider selling your current CPU+Cooler+Mobo+RAM+PSU and opting for a AM5-based build or Z690/Z790 (on DDR5)-based build, depending on regional pricing.
To be speciic:
- 7500F or 7700, 7800X3D / 9800X3D on AMD side, 13700K on Intel side. Going below 8 cores in 2025 can be detrimental to overall performance. AM5 might be more desirable from a future-proofing perspective, considering that Zen6 chips are rumoured to come with a single CCD 12C/24T chip.
- Make sure to purchase a 8 PCB layer board at minimum, ideally 2 DIMM slots for (theoretically) better signal integrity. Do not run 4 RAM sticks if you purchase a 4 DIMM board. It might be wise to stick to lower memory frequencies, such as 5200-5600MHz on both AMD and Intel. ALWAYS Purchase RAM which is on the QVL of the motherboard of choice.
- Do not, under any circumstance, purchase a AMD GPU, Intel GPU or a older-than Ampere GPU which is below 10GB VRAM.
"Desirable" GPU usage is 20-35% in all scenarios, ideally running in a frame rate which is in a multiple of your display's refresh rate.
- Avoid ALC4080-based boards due to severe audio latency penalty + added USB driver overhead.
- Research for motherboards with such specifications using geizhals or common reddit resources.
- RM1000x, HX1200 or AX1600i at minimum, in terms of voltage ripple performance.
- Phantom Spirit 120 SE is a usable & cheap option for a air-cooled rig.
- I assume your SSD might also be subpar, make sure to grab a high performing DRAM-based SSD (Optane, 990 Pro, KC3000, P44 Pro, SN850X etc.) to minimise OS stutters from slow storage performance.
- Optional: Opt for a horizontal PC case to lower stress on PCB from heavy GPU's.
- Run SMT/HT disabled and EXPO/XMP disabled, since CS2 doesn't benefit from it as much as other games and it's a hassle for most to deal with long duration stress testing.
- Make sure to verify CPU stability afterwards (for both Intel or AMD) by using typical stress-testing kits.
- Afterwards, you can install a stock W11 23H2 (using Ventoy) and run the .reg file from the 2nd link (PC-Tuning) afterwards, to start with a "clean" state.
- You may also experiment with a 2nd USB controller ASMedia-based PCIe card to further alleviate DPC/ISR issues from multiple USB devices.

Hope this helps.

[Mr1991]

Unfortunately I'm 95% sure my issues are actually electricity related. I'm using KirbyOS, my windows is pretty much tweaked to perfection, same with bios, RAM timings etc. Tested so many things when it comes to software that I'm sure it's not that. When the PSU discharges and I boot it for the first time after that, it's insane how responsive it is, unlike any PC caffe I have been at. It sometimes gets a little better, sometimes worse, but the issue is always there. I've tried leaving ethernet cable unplugged and there is no change. I've tried multiple outlets in different rooms - no change. Tomorrow I'm going to check grounding (outlet, PC case, motherboard etc) and let you know. If the grounding seems fine, I don't know what else to try other than getting a double conversion UPS.

>"tweaked to perfection"
>uses bottom tier b660 motherboard with a 13700, with no mention of cooling solution and (very likely) unstable RAM. to top it all off, a bottom tier 650w PSU which chokes all components for stutter fiesta
>compensates for shit HW choices by using a custom OS, which spams Event Viewer with a million different errors, thus creating SW overhead and causing severe stuttering
>no dpc/isr data from ETL logs to check for errors or any kind of presentmon data
>no mxa troubleshooting from ETL logs to check for errors
>permanently GPU limited with a 3060ti in CS2, which struggles with even a 4090 to push good FPS at low latency (low GPU usage)

The confidence in these EMI diagnoses & the trolling in this subforum by some users is surreal sometimes.

And no, before someone tries to spin this as a "low price budget diss" attempt, I'm stating that the funds were incorrectly used for what the goal was, very likely out of ignorance on the fact that hardware choices make or break your entire computing experience.
I assume you've been misled by the sheer amount of misinformation online, which some malicious users (so called "professional tweakers") on purposely push to rack in cash from laymen by purporting these trivial issues as grand.

Instead of running in circles, do proper troubleshooting steps and/or read resources such as:
https://calypto.us
https://github.com/valleyofdoom/PC-Tuning
https://github.com/BoringBoredom/PC-Optimization-Hub
https://github.com/djdallmann/GamingPCSetup

In your case, i'd consider selling your current CPU+Cooler+Mobo+RAM+PSU and opting for a AM5-based build or Z690/Z790 (on DDR5)-based build, depending on regional pricing.
To be speciic:
- 7500F or 7700, 7800X3D / 9800X3D on AMD side, 13700K on Intel side. Going below 8 cores in 2025 can be detrimental to overall performance. AM5 might be more desirable from a future-proofing perspective, considering that Zen6 chips are rumoured to come with a single CCD 12C/24T chip.
- Make sure to purchase a 8 PCB layer board at minimum, ideally 2 DIMM slots for (theoretically) better signal integrity. Do not run 4 RAM sticks if you purchase a 4 DIMM board. It might be wise to stick to lower memory frequencies, such as 5200-5600MHz on both AMD and Intel. ALWAYS Purchase RAM which is on the QVL of the motherboard of choice.
- Do not, under any circumstance, purchase a AMD GPU, Intel GPU or a older-than Ampere GPU which is below 10GB VRAM.
"Desirable" GPU usage is 20-35% in all scenarios, ideally running in a frame rate which is in a multiple of your display's refresh rate.
- Avoid ALC4080-based boards due to severe audio latency penalty + added USB driver overhead.
- Research for motherboards with such specifications using geizhals or common reddit resources.
- RM1000x, HX1200 or AX1600i at minimum, in terms of voltage ripple performance.
- Phantom Spirit 120 SE is a usable & cheap option for a air-cooled rig.
- I assume your SSD might also be subpar, make sure to grab a high performing DRAM-based SSD (Optane, 990 Pro, KC3000, P44 Pro, SN850X etc.) to minimise OS stutters from slow storage performance.
- Optional: Opt for a horizontal PC case to lower stress on PCB from heavy GPU's.
- Run SMT/HT disabled and EXPO/XMP disabled, since CS2 doesn't benefit from it as much as other games and it's a hassle for most to deal with long duration stress testing.
- Make sure to verify CPU stability afterwards (for both Intel or AMD) by using typical stress-testing kits.
- Afterwards, you can install a stock W11 23H2 (using Ventoy) and run the .reg file from the 2nd link (PC-Tuning) afterwards, to start with a "clean" state.
- You may also experiment with a 2nd USB controller ASMedia-based PCIe card to further alleviate DPC/ISR issues from multiple USB devices.

Hope this helps.

Do all that and there will still be a difference when unplugging/replugging

/post

[DMNCS]

Unfortunately I'm 95% sure my issues are actually electricity related. I'm using KirbyOS, my windows is pretty much tweaked to perfection, same with bios, RAM timings etc. Tested so many things when it comes to software that I'm sure it's not that. When the PSU discharges and I boot it for the first time after that, it's insane how responsive it is, unlike any PC caffe I have been at. It sometimes gets a little better, sometimes worse, but the issue is always there. I've tried leaving ethernet cable unplugged and there is no change. I've tried multiple outlets in different rooms - no change. Tomorrow I'm going to check grounding (outlet, PC case, motherboard etc) and let you know. If the grounding seems fine, I don't know what else to try other than getting a double conversion UPS.

>"tweaked to perfection"
>uses bottom tier b660 motherboard with a 13700, with no mention of cooling solution and (very likely) unstable RAM. to top it all off, a bottom tier 650w PSU which chokes all components for stutter fiesta
>compensates for shit HW choices by using a custom OS, which spams Event Viewer with a million different errors, thus creating SW overhead and causing severe stuttering
>no dpc/isr data from ETL logs to check for errors or any kind of presentmon data
>no mxa troubleshooting from ETL logs to check for errors
>permanently GPU limited with a 3060ti in CS2, which struggles with even a 4090 to push good FPS at low latency (low GPU usage)

The confidence in these EMI diagnoses & the trolling in this subforum by some users is surreal sometimes.

And no, before someone tries to spin this as a "low price budget diss" attempt, I'm stating that the funds were incorrectly used for what the goal was, very likely out of ignorance on the fact that hardware choices make or break your entire computing experience.
I assume you've been misled by the sheer amount of misinformation online, which some malicious users (so called "professional tweakers") on purposely push to rack in cash from laymen by purporting these trivial issues as grand.

Instead of running in circles, do proper troubleshooting steps and/or read resources such as:
https://calypto.us
https://github.com/valleyofdoom/PC-Tuning
https://github.com/BoringBoredom/PC-Optimization-Hub
https://github.com/djdallmann/GamingPCSetup

In your case, i'd consider selling your current CPU+Cooler+Mobo+RAM+PSU and opting for a AM5-based build or Z690/Z790 (on DDR5)-based build, depending on regional pricing.
To be speciic:
- 7500F or 7700, 7800X3D / 9800X3D on AMD side, 13700K on Intel side. Going below 8 cores in 2025 can be detrimental to overall performance. AM5 might be more desirable from a future-proofing perspective, considering that Zen6 chips are rumoured to come with a single CCD 12C/24T chip.
- Make sure to purchase a 8 PCB layer board at minimum, ideally 2 DIMM slots for (theoretically) better signal integrity. Do not run 4 RAM sticks if you purchase a 4 DIMM board. It might be wise to stick to lower memory frequencies, such as 5200-5600MHz on both AMD and Intel. ALWAYS Purchase RAM which is on the QVL of the motherboard of choice.
- Do not, under any circumstance, purchase a AMD GPU, Intel GPU or a older-than Ampere GPU which is below 10GB VRAM.
"Desirable" GPU usage is 20-35% in all scenarios, ideally running in a frame rate which is in a multiple of your display's refresh rate.
- Avoid ALC4080-based boards due to severe audio latency penalty + added USB driver overhead.
- Research for motherboards with such specifications using geizhals or common reddit resources.
- RM1000x, HX1200 or AX1600i at minimum, in terms of voltage ripple performance.
- Phantom Spirit 120 SE is a usable & cheap option for a air-cooled rig.
- I assume your SSD might also be subpar, make sure to grab a high performing DRAM-based SSD (Optane, 990 Pro, KC3000, P44 Pro, SN850X etc.) to minimise OS stutters from slow storage performance.
- Optional: Opt for a horizontal PC case to lower stress on PCB from heavy GPU's.
- Run SMT/HT disabled and EXPO/XMP disabled, since CS2 doesn't benefit from it as much as other games and it's a hassle for most to deal with long duration stress testing.
- Make sure to verify CPU stability afterwards (for both Intel or AMD) by using typical stress-testing kits.
- Afterwards, you can install a stock W11 23H2 (using Ventoy) and run the .reg file from the 2nd link (PC-Tuning) afterwards, to start with a "clean" state.
- You may also experiment with a 2nd USB controller ASMedia-based PCIe card to further alleviate DPC/ISR issues from multiple USB devices.

Hope this helps.

You were right, actually. It wasn't EMI. Ugh, guys, last few days were rough.

I tested a friend's PSU - he had a Thermaltake one with 850W, not sure which model and I had a Seasonic GX650. All my desnyc was gone. There was still a tiny bit of input lag that I wasn't noticing before when my game was running good, but still, it was so, so much better.

While running on his PSU, I was testing the game and playing for a solid hour, when suddenly I had 2 BSODs in a row. After that, I went to take a shower and noticed that the PC wasn't on when I came back. The red light next to DRAM was glowing on the motherboard. I have taken out the CMOS thinking it might have been my RAM timings or something (which have been stable for months prior) and after putting it back in, both DRAM and CPU lights were on. I tried every possible solution I came by online or by ChatGPT and nothing worked. This morning I have taken out the battery again and when I put it back in, there were no signs of life. After the entire day of switching parts, I have realised that my motherboard, CPU and 1 out of 2 RAM sticks were dead. I have no idea what caused this.

I have taken your advice and bought Gigabyte Z790 Aorus Elite AX, i9 13900kf, running on one RAM stick now and waiting for GIGABYTE Aorus ELITE 1000W PSU and about to RMA my RAM which is still under warranty. Still running on friend's PSU which made me concerned if what happened to me had anything to do with it.

[kyube]

I'm glad I was able to change your mind and I hope I've pinpointed your issue correctly.
EMI isn't that prevalent as this subforum likes to think, most users here deal with improper HW/SW setups.
Make sure to purchase a RAM kit which is on the QVL of your motherboard and does not deviate much from the clock recommendation for the 13900k
To be specific, this resource:
https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/Z7 ... ort-memsup
https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en ... tions.html
Opt for a ~5600MT/s XMP kits, perhaps 6000MT/s if you're feeling lucky (should be OK)
Do not run single channel (1 stick), the performance drop is severe.
Do not mix kits, it can lead to instabilities.
Don't be fooled by the CL value, it doesn't contribute to performance as much.
Here's a spreadsheet of LGA1700 board VRM specification
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/ ... 1463929059
Always reinstall OS only after being sure that you're stable in the game you play.

Also, make sure to run static vcore & static clock to avoid your motherboard potentially sending high voltage and frying your CPU.
This could be the reason your old motherboard was fried, along with the subpar VRM solution your B660 motherboard had.
Looking through Intel documentation to find out good vcore values might be of use.
I cannot give you a exact recommendation for the clock rate & vcore, as chip & mobo quality varies per unit.
Being <1,3v might be a good rule of thumb for longevity. Scale clock rate accordingly.
The less voltage you apply, the better it is. Especially if your cooling solution is subpar.
I personally consider (for the 13900k) anything which isn't direct die (delid) + custom water loop as subpar.

Hope this helps.

[DMNCS]

I know I'm going to sound like a schizo, but it came back, even on new PC. I guess it worked for a while because it was new hardware as people sometimes mentioned. I just did the USB trick and the difference was insane. It was like I had a 1000hz monitor for 10 seconds.

[JimCarry]

I know I'm going to sound like a schizo, but it came back, even on new PC. I guess it was because it was new hardware as people sometimes mentioned. I just did the USB trick and the difference was insane. It was like I had a 1000hz monitor for 10 seconds.

there is 1000 hz monitor ,imagine you do "your usb trick" on it ?