Long-term investigation of unstable input

[R11]

Hi. Please excuse my English; I live in Mexico.

I solved the problem two months ago thanks to an electrical engineer I met at work. The issue (in my case) stemmed from my home's TN-C system, and the solution was to switch to a TN-C-S system. To do this, you simply need to install a jumper between the neutral bar and the ground bar in the main electrical panel, and then connect the outlet circuits to that ground bar; however, keep the following in mind: first, you must verify if the neutral is grounded at the meter base, as this is a very common practice. If it is, you need to connect the meter's grounding rod to the main panel's grounding rod to ensure everything is at the same potential.

Using a separate grounding rod for the outlet circuits is a common mistake; everything must be at the same potential.

It wasn't necessary to rewire every outlet in the house; I simply installed an outlet next to the main panel and then used a 15-meter extension cord to connect my equipment.

I’ll soon record some videos to show how the games run; the difference is so massive that even an old Xbox One offers a far superior experience—in terms of resolution, sharpness, and smoothness—compared to what I had on my PC just a few months ago.

Could you please share some photos of what you did? Your description is a bit unclear to me, and I'd really appreciate it. Ideally, a photo of your panel (before and after the jumper installation) would help me understand exactly how you connected everything.

[unexpected8]

Catgrovee

Please upload pictures so we can understand exactly what you did. Thank you.

[Slender]

Not the first time at all, there are MANY people here - including myself - which fixed this by fixing broken neutral wiring, especially on old TN-C systems...we've been saying for so long that the problem is neutral impedance, neutral voltage drift and wrong neutral to ground potentials, and people still dream about some fictional "emi" and are buying emi meters...it's WIRING, not some fictional interference that jumps from PC to PC over air.

hah, then why isn't the problem fixed by the battery and the clean circuit? You did something that gave you a 5% improvement, which you mistook for a fix. But, it is ok, I really want people to move further and further away from the source of the problem.

[Dissimilate777]

Not the first time at all, there are MANY people here - including myself - which fixed this by fixing broken neutral wiring, especially on old TN-C systems...we've been saying for so long that the problem is neutral impedance, neutral voltage drift and wrong neutral to ground potentials, and people still dream about some fictional "emi" and are buying emi meters...it's WIRING, not some fictional interference that jumps from PC to PC over air.

hah, then why isn't the problem fixed by the battery and the clean circuit? You did something that gave you a 5% improvement, which you mistook for a fix. But, it is ok, I really want people to move further and further away from the source of the problem.

Another clown who thinks he knows what the problem is and supposedly fixed it, yet has been sitting on this forum for years. I think it’s long past time to ban him, so I’ll be filing a report. The same goes for clowns who use ChatGPT to post some kind of “miracle solutions” here just so someone else can test them for them.
For everyone reading this: not a single person on this forum has provided any actual proof of a solution so far.
The clown above doesn’t play children’s games, apparently to the point where he can’t even download one for the sake of this forum. And the clown above him doesn’t even understand what electrical system he has installed. He makes a jumper between PE and N in a TN-C system, even though TN-C itself already implies that PE and N are connected, and this has absolutely nothing to do with TN-C-S.
He said he would post a video? You won’t see him on this forum again, I can assure you.

[Catgrovee]

Not the first time at all, there are MANY people here - including myself - which fixed this by fixing broken neutral wiring, especially on old TN-C systems...we've been saying for so long that the problem is neutral impedance, neutral voltage drift and wrong neutral to ground potentials, and people still dream about some fictional "emi" and are buying emi meters...it's WIRING, not some fictional interference that jumps from PC to PC over air.

hah, then why isn't the problem fixed by the battery and the clean circuit? You did something that gave you a 5% improvement, which you mistook for a fix. But, it is ok, I really want people to move further and further away from the source of the problem.

Another clown who thinks he knows what the problem is and supposedly fixed it, yet has been sitting on this forum for years. I think it’s long past time to ban him, so I’ll be filing a report. The same goes for clowns who use ChatGPT to post some kind of “miracle solutions” here just so someone else can test them for them.
For everyone reading this: not a single person on this forum has provided any actual proof of a solution so far.
The clown above doesn’t play children’s games, apparently to the point where he can’t even download one for the sake of this forum. And the clown above him doesn’t even understand what electrical system he has installed. He makes a jumper between PE and N in a TN-C system, even though TN-C itself already implies that PE and N are connected, and this has absolutely nothing to do with TN-C-S.
He said he would post a video? You won’t see him on this forum again, I can assure you.

I understand how frustrated you must be not being able to play without those inexplicable latency issues. I haven't been able to play and record a video because I'm working and running a small business at the same time, but don't worry—as soon as I have some free time, I'll record it. It might be tomorrow, or over the weekend, or I might just forget about it because I'm too busy playing comfortably without any lag—who knows

[MK92]

Not the first time at all, there are MANY people here - including myself - which fixed this by fixing broken neutral wiring, especially on old TN-C systems...we've been saying for so long that the problem is neutral impedance, neutral voltage drift and wrong neutral to ground potentials, and people still dream about some fictional "emi" and are buying emi meters...it's WIRING, not some fictional interference that jumps from PC to PC over air.

hah, then why isn't the problem fixed by the battery and the clean circuit? You did something that gave you a 5% improvement, which you mistook for a fix. But, it is ok, I really want people to move further and further away from the source of the problem.

The problem is literally fixed by battery, but you need to disconnect UPS from the wall which is pointless as it will turn off after ~5 minutes (as long as the UPS is still connected to the wall it will not work correctly as it would still use building's neutral wire as a reference, even if you set it to run on battery), and no in my case the problem is 100% fixed and not just 5% with a clean circuit and splitted tn-c into tn-c-s just for PC and monitor, it has been fine for 3 months already, now it works exactly the same as if i would have turned on oven or iron, or like it worked fine late at night, but now it works like that 24/7 regardless of other appliances turning on/off or time of the day

[Slender]

Not the first time at all, there are MANY people here - including myself - which fixed this by fixing broken neutral wiring, especially on old TN-C systems...we've been saying for so long that the problem is neutral impedance, neutral voltage drift and wrong neutral to ground potentials, and people still dream about some fictional "emi" and are buying emi meters...it's WIRING, not some fictional interference that jumps from PC to PC over air.

hah, then why isn't the problem fixed by the battery and the clean circuit? You did something that gave you a 5% improvement, which you mistook for a fix. But, it is ok, I really want people to move further and further away from the source of the problem.

Another clown who thinks he knows what the problem is and supposedly fixed it, yet has been sitting on this forum for years. I think it’s long past time to ban him, so I’ll be filing a report. The same goes for clowns who use ChatGPT to post some kind of “miracle solutions” here just so someone else can test them for them.
For everyone reading this: not a single person on this forum has provided any actual proof of a solution so far.
The clown above doesn’t play children’s games, apparently to the point where he can’t even download one for the sake of this forum. And the clown above him doesn’t even understand what electrical system he has installed. He makes a jumper between PE and N in a TN-C system, even though TN-C itself already implies that PE and N are connected, and this has absolutely nothing to do with TN-C-S.
He said he would post a video? You won’t see him on this forum again, I can assure you.

dont cry bro, after 10 or 20 years someone leak fix for this issue. right now you can play tetris.

[Slender]

Not the first time at all, there are MANY people here - including myself - which fixed this by fixing broken neutral wiring, especially on old TN-C systems...we've been saying for so long that the problem is neutral impedance, neutral voltage drift and wrong neutral to ground potentials, and people still dream about some fictional "emi" and are buying emi meters...it's WIRING, not some fictional interference that jumps from PC to PC over air.

hah, then why isn't the problem fixed by the battery and the clean circuit? You did something that gave you a 5% improvement, which you mistook for a fix. But, it is ok, I really want people to move further and further away from the source of the problem.

The problem is literally fixed by battery, but you need to disconnect UPS from the wall which is pointless as it will turn off after ~5 minutes (as long as the UPS is still connected to the wall it will not work correctly as it would still use building's neutral wire as a reference, even if you set it to run on battery), and no in my case the problem is 100% fixed and not just 5% with a clean circuit and splitted tn-c into tn-c-s just for PC and monitor, it has been fine for 3 months already, now it works exactly the same as if i would have turned on oven or iron, or like it worked fine late at night, but now it works like that 24/7 regardless of other appliances turning on/off or time of the day

ok, so, i think you have differential interference issue.
edit: if you disconnect ground from pc and monitor, or cut ground from pc / monitor problem will back?

[MK92]

I'm not touching the wiring anymore now that it works fine so I won't open up the new socket and remove grounding wire just for testing

But I think ground is irrelevant anyway, the problem was neutral impedance and voltage drift up to 6V on neutral due to old wires and shared circuits with other appliances...if you get a dedicated circuit and its still the same that basically rules out the problem in your apartment, but the problem might still exist in building itself on shared neutrals or loose PEN connectors somewhere, ideally you would then need to test it at neighbours apartment in different floor to see how stuff works there

[Slender]

I'm not touching the wiring anymore now that it works fine so I won't open up the new socket and remove grounding wire just for testing

But I think ground is irrelevant anyway, the problem was neutral impedance and voltage drift up to 6V on neutral due to old wires and shared circuits with other appliances...if you get a dedicated circuit and its still the same that basically rules out the problem in your apartment, but the problem might still exist in building itself on shared neutrals or loose PEN connectors somewhere, ideally you would then need to test it at neighbours apartment in different floor to see how stuff works there

just connect pc or monitor, or both with cheatplug, bro
edit: im checked pc on last upper, and first floor.
different phaces, result same.