MBR vs Freesync vs Override:Boost AOC Monitor !!

Ask about motion blur reduction in gaming monitors. Includes ULMB (Ultra Low Motion Blur), NVIDIA LightBoost, ASUS ELMB, BenQ/Zowie DyAc, Turbo240, ToastyX Strobelight, etc.
CAN0N
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MBR vs Freesync vs Override:Boost AOC Monitor !!

Post by CAN0N » 23 Jun 2019, 15:05

hey guys , lately i have got AOC C24G1 "MPRT" and i'm not dissappointed at all !
but i'm just in confusion because i have alot of options to choose from which are :-
1- Freesync
2-Override modes :- off , weak , medium , strong and Boost
Boost is like dimms the screen a lot but i feel it gives actual 1 ms for example when i alt+tap it switchs so fast like it's so responsive and i feel it less motion blur but as i said on other side monitor dimms and i can't use Boost + FreeSync OR Boost + MBR
I can use Strong or lower + FreeSync OR Strong or lower + MBR.
3-MBR "Motion Blur Reduction"
As i increase MBR in a scale from 0 to 20 , the monitors dimms as i increase it.
..
so please guys if anyone have AOC monitor tells me what is the optimum settings you have and if Freesync "compaitable with Gsync" is worth more than using MBR/Boost?
Because i'm literally in confusion
Note : i'm currently using Strong + FreeSync due to high brightness and beatiful colors

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Re: MBR vs Freesync vs Override:Boost AOC Monitor !!

Post by Chief Blur Buster » 24 Jun 2019, 12:06

CAN0N wrote:3-MBR "Motion Blur Reduction"
As i increase MBR in a scale from 0 to 20 , the monitors dimms as i increase it.
Excellent to know that this is an adjustable-persistence (adjustable-MPRT) strobing monitor including optional access to <1ms MPRT.

Blur Busters is a strong advocate of adjustable-persistence, like the old LightBoost 10%-vs-50%-vs-100%

A good adjustable-MPRT benchmark is TestUFO Panning Map Test at 3000 pixels/second. You will see text clarity differences on this map everytime you adjust MBR. But at one point, it becomes too dark to be useful -- so basically it can be used as your brightness adjustment too.

To see maximum MBR benefits in games, you will need perfect framerate=Hz sync (either VSYNC ON or Low-Lag VSYNC or RTSS Scanline Sync, and reduce your Hz to be at the bottom end of your game's framerate range) AND at least 1600dpi+ on your gaming mouse. One of the better modern 12800dpi sensors running in ~3200dpi-6400dpi also work well if your game's sensitivity can be lowered sufficiently dramatically to make it feel like a 400dpi mouse that many esports player are familiar with -- this turns the mouse "TestUFO-smooth" with strobign. Eliminates strobe jitteriness with ultrahigh DPI + ultra good mousepad + fresh mouse feet helps. Since strobing (MBR) amplifies visibility of microstuttering. Once optimized (if strobing is bright and colorful enough on your monitor), strobing looks amazing. But it's still the Right Tool for the Right Job.

Controlling all sources of microstutter is extremely critical if you want to see maximal motion clarity benefits of <1ms MPRT. I can see human-eye visible differences between 0.5ms MPRT and 1.0ms MPRT in the TestUFO Google Map 3000 pixels/sec test. But to do that, you need to optimize your game to be properly TestUFO-smooth.
CAN0N wrote:Note : i'm currently using Strong + FreeSync due to high brightness and beatiful colors
...That said, FreeSync can be a more fun experience in very stuttery games.

You may prefer to stick to FreeSync. That said, getting familiar with how to optimize MBR is a useful skill so you can use it for games that benefits more from MBR than from FreeSync (like very scrolly games and heavy-eyetracking-games that has no crosshairs for your eyes to stationarily-fixate on). Or if you're a fan of CRT motion clarity.

Assuming MBR colors are good and bright (it's not always on all models of monitors -- very tough to do colorful MBR) .... MBR can become superior to FreeSync if you manage to do perfect framerate=Hz (trying to do that, often requires VSYNC ON that often adds a little input lag).

If you're prioritizing on brightness/colors and de-stuttering, FreeSync is a hell lot easier.

If you're prioritizing on motion clarity in certain games you'd use MBR + VSYNC ON(and related low-lag alternatives) + at least 1600dpi+ mouse.
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CAN0N
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Re: MBR vs Freesync vs Override:Boost AOC Monitor !!

Post by CAN0N » 24 Jun 2019, 13:07

Thanks for your interest/reply !
I have a gaming mouse Logitech G403 And QCK+ Mouse Pad from SteelSeries so i think i'm good with the gear , about the frames so i'm playing currently Fortnite "Competitively" and i cap my frames to 200 FPS "instead of 144 to avoid any input lag" , i disable Vsync due to some input lag too and as i said i play with Freesync "Compaitable with gsync " ON ..
So i will try the 1600 dpi but it's gonna be a huge change for me because i play on 400 dpi :shock:

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Re: MBR vs Freesync vs Override:Boost AOC Monitor !!

Post by Chief Blur Buster » 24 Jun 2019, 13:23

CAN0N wrote:So i will try the 1600 dpi but it's gonna be a huge change for me because i play on 400 dpi :shock:
You can readjust in-game sensitivity downwards to make 1600dpi as slow as 400dpi.

Use mouse-dpi switching so it's 400dpi in Windows but 1600dpi+ with games. Razer Synapse, for example, can be configured to change DPI for specific games too.

You will notice that slow mouseturns become much smoother, even though fast mouseturns stay the same speed as 400dpi. And microstutter/jitters during MBR is noticeably lower, especially during low MPRT settings. Medium speed mouse turns become much less jittery with MBR at higher mouse DPI settings, and you can mouselook much more smoothly like TestUFO scrolling.

In the past, the problem arises when 1600dpi is less accurate than 400dpi due to software or mouse limitations, but new sensors are making 1600dpi just fine nowadays for the majority of newer esports players even for their fastest mouse flicks.

More than ten years ago, 400dpi was a great competitive recommendation but is fairly outdated in many games (with newer mice) that doesn't consider MBR / ULMB / high-Hz circumstances and improved mouse equipment nowadays.
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CAN0N
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Re: MBR vs Freesync vs Override:Boost AOC Monitor !!

Post by CAN0N » 25 Jun 2019, 02:34

Thanks a lot bro i switched to 1600 dpi really feels smoother , i think i don't need Freesync anyways because i have consistent 200 frams on fortnite " competitive settings " anyways i have i7 9700k and soon i will get GTX 1080 Ti too .
so frames is not a problem so i will keep my settings on Override:Strong + MBR 10 for competitive play .
if you have any other advises you are welcome to give ^^ <3

senny22
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Re: MBR vs Freesync vs Override:Boost AOC Monitor !!

Post by senny22 » 14 Aug 2019, 11:40

Chief Blur Buster wrote:
CAN0N wrote: To see maximum MBR benefits in games, you will need perfect framerate=Hz sync (either VSYNC ON or Low-Lag VSYNC or RTSS Scanline Sync, and reduce your Hz to be at the bottom end of your game's framerate range) AND at least 1600dpi+ on your gaming mouse. One of the better modern 12800dpi sensors running in ~3200dpi-6400dpi also work well if your game's sensitivity can be lowered sufficiently dramatically to make it feel like a 400dpi mouse that many esports player are familiar with -- this turns the mouse "TestUFO-smooth" with strobign. Eliminates strobe jitteriness with ultrahigh DPI + ultra good mousepad + fresh mouse feet helps. Since strobing (MBR) amplifies visibility of microstuttering. Once optimized (if strobing is bright and colorful enough on your monitor), strobing looks amazing. But it's still the Right Tool for the Right Job.
Is it really necesarry to have 16000dpi if one can simply use 800dpi with double the in-game sens? Is there really a difference? I have a DM1 Pro S (pmw 3360) which is supposedly a pretty good sensor but have always used 800dpi because I've understood that more isn't beneficial. Should i instead switch to 16000dpi and lower in-game sens?

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Re: MBR vs Freesync vs Override:Boost AOC Monitor !!

Post by Chief Blur Buster » 16 Aug 2019, 16:30

senny22 wrote:Is it really necesarry to have 16000dpi if one can simply use 800dpi with double the in-game sens? Is there really a difference? I have a DM1 Pro S (pmw 3360) which is supposedly a pretty good sensor but have always used 800dpi because I've understood that more isn't beneficial. Should i instead switch to 16000dpi and lower in-game sens?
Yes, but it depends on the game.

In fact, in some games -- I can tell 1600dpi and 3200dpi (and even 6400pi) on reasonably newer sensors (the ~12800dpi+ sensors). Consider 3200dpi is only 25% of 12800dpi, and will usually be fairly accurate on a modern good 12800dpi+ sensor. But that's a big ask for someone who is used to 400dpi, so a leap to 1600dpi is easier even if I can see benefits of 1600dpi-vs-3200dpi in a strobed situation.

It mainly affects slowturns.
1. Put an ultra-high-resolution esports quality mouse pad on your table
2. Clean your mouse feet or put new clean mouse feet on the bottom of your mouse (if you have old scratched-up mousefeet)
3. Increase mouse DPI to 1600dpi or 3200dpi, preferably about 25%-50% of max DPI (don't use max, it's too jittery/interpolated)
4. Launch a FPS game that plays well with high-DPI
5. Decrease in-game sensitivity.
6. Turn on ULMB (optional, it just makes it easier to see slowturn benefits)
7. Turn left/right slowly as possible, just like a TestUFO at 960 pixels per second. Mouseturn your FPS game
8. You will see your slow mouse turns become TestUFO-smooth instead of coarse.

Not all games have enough sensitivity range to let you do that, and not everyone needs that but it's useful if you're a fan of ULMB/LightBoost and want your slowturns to be TestUFO-smooth, or slowturns as smooth (step-free) as keyboard strafe left-right.

The problem is old mice had poor sensors, even some newer mice are often unexpectedly bad, mousepads are often crap, esports players don't always use ULMB/GSYNC/240Hz, mouse feets are often dirty, max-DPI is very jittery (e.g. max to 12,000dpi or 16,000dpi). But back off on that a bit, 1600dpi, 3200dpi, it makes a big difference for jitterless stutterless ULMB (especially with RTSS Scanline Sync or VSYNC ON or other low-lag variants of VSYNC ON)

BUT with the right "ultrasilky" setup (mousepad+mousefeet+sensor) it is very easy to tell 800dpi vs 1600dpi vs 3200dpi with slow mouseturns with strobing (ULMB). You have to eliminate all your jitteriness weak links though.

Also, it is more noticeable for 240Hz / VRR / strobed situations, than for 60Hz.

If the mouse is good (proper "ultrasilky" setup, recent sensor, high-G, high velocity), you won't notice a difference in your fast-flick turns in your highdpi+lowsens versus lowdpi+highsens situation.

What magically becomes different is your slowturns become TestUFO smooth, no step-step-step-step effect during slowturns.

A perfect high DPI setting is one that:
(A) Doesn't interfere with your fast turns / flick turns
(B) Greatly improves your slowturns. <-- THATS WHY HIGH DPI HELPS :)

If your mouse sensor is an older model, if your mouse sensor is not one of the good ones, if your mouse feet is old, if your mousepad is dirty, if your mousepad is not one of the ultrahigh-DPI-friendly ones, if your game has high-DPI bugs, then it wont help and may hurt your game. Stay at 400 or 800 until you upgrade and clean up everything. However... Once you clean up all your mouse weak links, ultrahigh DPI is bliss and can improve your game.
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senny22
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Re: MBR vs Freesync vs Override:Boost AOC Monitor !!

Post by senny22 » 20 Aug 2019, 17:17

Chief Blur Buster wrote:
senny22 wrote:Is it really necesarry to have 16000dpi if one can simply use 800dpi with double the in-game sens? Is there really a difference? I have a DM1 Pro S (pmw 3360) which is supposedly a pretty good sensor but have always used 800dpi because I've understood that more isn't beneficial. Should i instead switch to 16000dpi and lower in-game sens?
Yes, but it depends on the game.

In fact, in some games -- I can tell 1600dpi and 3200dpi (and even 6400pi) on reasonably newer sensors (the ~12800dpi+ sensors). Consider 3200dpi is only 25% of 12800dpi, and will usually be fairly accurate on a modern good 12800dpi+ sensor. But that's a big ask for someone who is used to 400dpi, so a leap to 1600dpi is easier even if I can see benefits of 1600dpi-vs-3200dpi in a strobed situation.

It mainly affects slowturns.
1. Put an ultra-high-resolution esports quality mouse pad on your table
2. Clean your mouse feet or put new clean mouse feet on the bottom of your mouse (if you have old scratched-up mousefeet)
3. Increase mouse DPI to 1600dpi or 3200dpi, preferably about 25%-50% of max DPI (don't use max, it's too jittery/interpolated)
4. Launch a FPS game that plays well with high-DPI
5. Decrease in-game sensitivity.
6. Turn on ULMB (optional, it just makes it easier to see slowturn benefits)
7. Turn left/right slowly as possible, just like a TestUFO at 960 pixels per second. Mouseturn your FPS game
8. You will see your slow mouse turns become TestUFO-smooth instead of coarse.

Not all games have enough sensitivity range to let you do that, and not everyone needs that but it's useful if you're a fan of ULMB/LightBoost and want your slowturns to be TestUFO-smooth, or slowturns as smooth (step-free) as keyboard strafe left-right.

The problem is old mice had poor sensors, even some newer mice are often unexpectedly bad, mousepads are often crap, esports players don't always use ULMB/GSYNC/240Hz, mouse feets are often dirty, max-DPI is very jittery (e.g. max to 12,000dpi or 16,000dpi). But back off on that a bit, 1600dpi, 3200dpi, it makes a big difference for jitterless stutterless ULMB (especially with RTSS Scanline Sync or VSYNC ON or other low-lag variants of VSYNC ON)

BUT with the right "ultrasilky" setup (mousepad+mousefeet+sensor) it is very easy to tell 800dpi vs 1600dpi vs 3200dpi with slow mouseturns with strobing (ULMB). You have to eliminate all your jitteriness weak links though.

Also, it is more noticeable for 240Hz / VRR / strobed situations, than for 60Hz.

If the mouse is good (proper "ultrasilky" setup, recent sensor, high-G, high velocity), you won't notice a difference in your fast-flick turns in your highdpi+lowsens versus lowdpi+highsens situation.

What magically becomes different is your slowturns become TestUFO smooth, no step-step-step-step effect during slowturns.

A perfect high DPI setting is one that:
(A) Doesn't interfere with your fast turns / flick turns
(B) Greatly improves your slowturns. <-- THATS WHY HIGH DPI HELPS :)

If your mouse sensor is an older model, if your mouse sensor is not one of the good ones, if your mouse feet is old, if your mousepad is dirty, if your mousepad is not one of the ultrahigh-DPI-friendly ones, if your game has high-DPI bugs, then it wont help and may hurt your game. Stay at 400 or 800 until you upgrade and clean up everything. However... Once you clean up all your mouse weak links, ultrahigh DPI is bliss and can improve your game.
Cheers, I have skatepad mousefeet on my mosue with a paracord so my mouse is quite smooth. The sensor (pwn 3360) is also rated for at least 12000 dpi.

It's possible to lower the sensitivity enough in most games if you can use a console or such. If I were to use 3200dpi, can I lower my windows sensetivity without if affecting my games (or the desktop sens would be stupid high)? I've used 1600dpi for a while now and it seems pretty smooth but I can't say that I really notice a difference compared to 800dpi.

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Re: MBR vs Freesync vs Override:Boost AOC Monitor !!

Post by Chief Blur Buster » 20 Aug 2019, 17:26

Yes, the "Mouse Too Fast In Windows" problem. Several mouse utilities lets you configure mouse profile that trigger per-game, or per-app, assign to an extra/hidden button (e.g. a third side button or bottom button), etc.

Other mouse have an extra button that can be configured to be bound to DPI switching.

For the Razer gaming mice,
I simply use the mouse software to automatically raise DPI everytime steam.exe launches, and lower DPI everytime steam.exe exits.

For the ASUS gaming mice,
I simply bind it to one of the mouse buttons.

It depends on the mouse, but this is generally how things are done.
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senny22
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Joined: 03 May 2019, 17:40

Re: MBR vs Freesync vs Override:Boost AOC Monitor !!

Post by senny22 » 21 Aug 2019, 03:08

Chief Blur Buster wrote:Yes, the "Mouse Too Fast In Windows" problem. Several mouse utilities lets you configure mouse profile that trigger per-game, or per-app, assign to an extra/hidden button (e.g. a third side button or bottom button), etc.

Other mouse have an extra button that can be configured to be bound to DPI switching.

For the Razer gaming mice,
I simply use the mouse software to automatically raise DPI everytime steam.exe launches, and lower DPI everytime steam.exe exits.

For the ASUS gaming mice,
I simply bind it to one of the mouse buttons.

It depends on the mouse, but this is generally how things are done.
Yeah I can do that through my mouse software but what would there be any downside so simply having 3200dpi on all the time and lower windows sensetivity or would that mess up the in-game sensetivity?

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