Connection Help, 2411Z & Need 2 More

[lopsided]

Hello guys,
Chief recommended I go with the Z series to replace my current triple monitor set up for my race rig so I ordered one, the 2411Z to evaluate it before purchasing the other two.
I need to be very certain of a few things before buying the next two and calling this a 'done deal, game over'. It isn't easy upgrading triples frequently and I can't bare to wait for newer technology as it's really creating eye strain and I am limiting my racing as a result.

I have ONE EVGA GTX780 (03G-P4-2781-KR). It has the following outputs:
- Dual Link DVI-I
- Dual Link DVI-D
- DisplayPort
- Useless HMDI lol

I opted for the 2411Z instead of the 2420Z as a non-wireless remote switch and it's side plug are not practical. I use a stand, not a desk.

.

Questions:
1- Will the outputs on my single 780 provide connections for 3 120hz monitors? I'm actually confused about the DVI-i vs DVI-d -they are both Dual Link if that helps. I'm not sure if Chief caught my reference to having a single card.
I assume that in the future I will probably need more horsepower to run the more demanding race sims @120hz, however, I currently get well over 240fps running iRacing at 5760x1080 on my current 60hz monitors.

2- Will I need another DP to DVI adapter? I currently use an "active" DP to DVI adapter with one of my monitors however, after further reading it has me believing I will need something like an Accell B087B-007B instead of the one I am currently using ( something similar to the the Accell Adapter SKU: B087B-005B). Mine cost about $30, the other cost about $95.
Both called "active" so you can understand the confusion there

3- Would it be a bad idea to purchase 1 2420z and 2 2411z's just to avoid the adapter? Just curious, never mixed monitors before.

4- I am wondering if opting to purchase 3 2411z's that have no DP's would in some way well, bite me in the butt in the future. Is there something I should be considering here? A serious reason to go for the 2420z's instead perhaps?

I am still pouring thru this forum and learning. I forget half of what I've read so I starting taking notes on things I think will be important. There seems to be a lot of tweaks and tricks you guys are using on monitors and I am a complete noob when it comes to that so.. baby steps. lol If there is a step by step to tweaking a BenQ z monitor I'd love a link. (so far I've tried the Strobe utility -excellent! and did the 1350 tweak - although I don't quite understand it yet)

Thanks for your help,
Bailey

[Chief Blur Buster]

1- Will the outputs on my single 780 provide connections for 3 120hz monitors? I'm actually confused about the DVI-i vs DVI-d -they are both Dual Link if that helps.

DVI-I is actually a superset of DVI-D(digital) and DVI-A(analog VGA).
So DVI-I can be used as DVI-D.

I assume that in the future I will probably need more horsepower to run the more demanding race sims @120hz, however, I currently get well over 240fps running iRacing at 5760x1080 on my current 60hz monitors.

You will need to expect to upgrade the graphics card eventually. However, that should be good enough for 120fps in surround mode, so if that's your main game, a single 780 should do you well for now.

2- Will I need another DP to DVI adapter?

Yes, you will need an active dual-link DVI if you want to stay with a single 780.

3- Would it be a bad idea to purchase 1 2420z and 2 2411z's just to avoid the adapter? Just curious, never mixed monitors before.

It would work, but it would look.... "lopsided" (pun?)
I recommend all X2411Z, all XL2420Z, or all XL2720Z.

4- I am wondering if opting to purchase 3 2411z's that have no DP's would in some way well, bite me in the butt in the future. Is there something I should be considering here? A serious reason to go for the 2420z's instead perhaps?

It's a possible thought, if your goal is to keep the monitors for a very long time. It is a personal decision; and an additional expense. But this ugprade cycle is probably not going to be long enough to factor this into your decision. The monitor upgrade cycle has accelerated, for the moment, because of the sudden emergence of several "Better Than 60Hz" technologies (GSYNC, LightBoost, ULMB, BENQ Blur Reduction, etc), so you may want to re-upgrade your monitors in less than 5 years as a result (e.g. 4K OLED 120Hz, who knows?).

I am still pouring thru this forum and learning. I forget half of what I've read so I starting taking notes on things I think will be important. There seems to be a lot of tweaks and tricks you guys are using on monitors and I am a complete noob when it comes to that so.. baby steps. lol If there is a step by step to tweaking a BenQ z monitor I'd love a link.

Eventually, a guide will come together here, but for now, this forum is the tips & trick forum!

(so far I've tried the Strobe utility -excellent! and did the 1350 tweak - although I don't quite understand it yet)

How is your eyestrain on the XL2411Z?
What settings have you used that you found creates less eyestrain for you?
Do you have BENQ Blur Reduction enabled or disabled?

[lopsided]

How is your eyestrain on the XL2411Z? What settings have you used that you found creates less eyestrain for you?
Do you have BENQ Blur Reduction enabled or disabled?

Hi Chief, You've been such a help to me and it appears to a much much larger community as well as I now see your little avatar all over the place. You are really generous with your time and knowledge.

The reduction in blurring is easily evident going for 60hz to 120hz, but with the MBR ON it is more icing on the cake and I am happy to say, you made the right choice. lol Ok, well, you helped me make a wise choice and I am grateful.
I have two more ordered so I will have more tweaking and testing ahead. I may need to change my settings for one of the newer racing sims I run because I doubt I will be able to run 120fps constant. I will cross that bridge once I have all 3 monitors.

I've got lots to learn and am still reading as I do not know the terminology yet, so here's what I'm using thus far, any errors or suggestions are welcome from anyone here.

On the 2411z
FPS1 (the colors surprised me, I was expecting "fairly bad to MEH!" Not sure if this choice controls brightness/contrast etc.)
Black EQ: 0
Brightness: 100
Contrast: 60
Low Blue Light Something: 4
AMA: High (don't remember what this is)
Instant Mode: On
Sharpness: 6

Running at 120hz, with MBR ON, I used the 1350 tweak thing I don't understand yet , I downloaded an icc color profile that was recommended and installed that as per instructions.

Your very cool utility I have set to 2.5 persistence, 0 (to the left) Crosstalk. I could live with 1.5 easily though, just need to put it thru the paces for a while and see what suits.

I'm probably doing some things wrong. I read something about doing AMA setting before (or was it after) I turn MBR on, see this is why I need notes!!
I noticed flickering/strobing when I set the monitor to a lower hz and turned MBR on, I believe you mention the hz limits of that but can't remember.
It's a lot to digest in one sitting but I'm glad we have guru's out there that are willing to help those of us who are already running in so many other directions.
Bailey

[masterotaku]

I may need to change my settings for one of the newer racing sims I run because I doubt I will be able to run 120fps constant.

Or you can change the refresh rate. 95Hz is my usual frequency. Compared to 120Hz, it also has no flickering, fps are high enough to be smooth, reduced requirements, still low input lag with vsync on, colors and black level are better and it has less scanlines effect.
I change it depending on the game if I can't reach 95fps minimum (i.e: BF3 at 80Hz, Metro 2033 at 72Hz, modded Morrowind at 60Hz (yes, it's that demanding)).

On the 2411z
FPS1 (the colors surprised me

What? Those FPS modes have terrible colors (at least for me). The gamma is totally wrong and you can't change it in that mode. I tweaked the standard mode and saved it to the Gamer1 profile.

I have set to 2.5 persistence

Different tastes, I guess, but for me, persistence above 1.5ms is too blurry. I'm used to the 0.5ms brightness and I make sure that my room is dark enough.

I read something about doing AMA setting before (or was it after) I turn MBR on, see this is why I need notes!!

If you leave it at "high" and you don't touch it after enabling MBR, you're doing it right .

I noticed flickering/strobing when I set the monitor to a lower hz and turned MBR on, I believe you mention the hz limits of that but can't remember.

What are your detection limits? For me, it's something like this:
50Hz -> My eyes are melting!
60Hz -> It still hurts me. I almost can't notice it in games, though. Because games use darker colors, perhaps?
70Hz -> I still notice it easily, but it doesn't bother me.
75Hz -> I notice flickering, but with more difficulty.
80Hz -> It's very difficult to notice flickering.
85Hz -> MBR is on? Seriously?

That fits the flicker fusion threshold chart nicely. I use 95Hz to leave the possibility of flickering down to zero . My brother detects flickering at higher refresh rates than me, but it may be because he has epilepsy.

[lopsided]

LOL. Hi masterotaku, honestly I was by no means suggesting those settings. Chief had asked what I was using and I simply wrote them down. I'm a complete novice at monitor tweaking and have spent little time with the settings as there is so much to read.
I appreciate your info., I did not want to spend more time tweaking until I had the remaining two monitors hooked up, they arrive tomorrow.
I had anticipated needing to lower the hz on the monitor for the game I can not maintain 120fps on but luckily iRacing is my main focus and it will create no problem.

May need to ask for more advice once I've worked out the kinks and learned a little more. Just didn't want to ask too many questions until I could digest some more of the info. here and mess with the settings a bit.

Thanks for the info,
Bailey