My experience with all sorts of Problems regularly mentioned here.

[Slender]

Can you send one potho to see how the connection should be made? I'm interested in trying it.

Sure. Here you go! https://imgur.com/a/ruXGZWr

I've used 2 wires because... well I just had them and two is better than one. But one already does the trick. The metal "plate" thing on the PSU is from some furniture or somethinhg, I think. It doesn't matter really what that would be, as long as it's metal and you can somehow screw that in. Good luck!

disable ground on your panel and retest it.

[ZINZIRIO]

Can you send one potho to see how the connection should be made? I'm interested in trying it.

Sure. Here you go! https://imgur.com/a/ruXGZWr

I've used 2 wires because... well I just had them and two is better than one. But one already does the trick. The metal "plate" thing on the PSU is from some furniture or somethinhg, I think. It doesn't matter really what that would be, as long as it's metal and you can somehow screw that in. Good luck!

disable ground on your panel and retest it.

It didn't make any difference to me... I'm going to try a gas generator these days since what made a difference for 2 weeks (I thought it was fixed) was connecting my neutral to ground at the main panel, which gives me an indicator that my problem is probably coming from my electric provider.

[dervu]

Interesting. I tried this, and the measurement dropped from 7 mV to under 2 mV. I’ll report the full results later.

By the way, according to the Smart O3 AI model, anything above 5 mV is bad, below 2 mV is OK.

Some more information:

“PCIe Gen‑5 requires roughly 15 mV eye height to stay below the compliance limit of 1 × 10⁻¹² BER.”

“A 5–8 mV common‑mode offset (what you measure when the GPU bracket and PSU case differ by that amount) erodes one‑third to one‑half of that eye in a single stroke.”

“Lab vendors (TI, Anritsu) and scope manufacturers (Teledyne) all document that such millivolt‑level shifts are enough to push a once‑compliant link into the ‘Correctable Error / AER replay’ regime.”

“The larger the DC (or slow AC) offset you see, the less vertical opening (‘buffer zone’) the receiver has to absorb other disturbances.”

However, if external interference is significant, even a perfect measurement here might not matter. It may be that this tweak helps some users who are close to the tipping point, while for others the offset is already well beyond that. I’m not sure why, in the latter case, they wouldn’t see more obvious disruptions—such as USB dropouts, etc.

[ChristophSmaul1337]

disable ground on your panel and retest it.

Doesn't make a difference, which makes sense. If what I've found out here is really the root cause of my issues, which I am now more and more sure of it is, it's a problem with the hardware itself and how PCB's are designed. There's nothing you could ever do to fully isolate the GPU so it's only connected to ground at one point, as it needs the 2x PCIe power plugs and the GND pins in the PCIe slot at the very least, even if you could isolate it from the case.

Safety ground coming from the socket has almost no impact here. Yes, I've observed another path back to the PSU's ground via the DisplayPort cable and the monitor's 3-prong cable, but the current flowing there was very low in comparison. Flipping the switch on my apparatus wouldn't change this, because the ground loop doesn't come from "outside" of the system. My computer and the monitor are still connected to the same power strip, only that I can turn "off" the safety ground going into it. The loop is still there, the switch doesn't influence this.

I could theoretically cut the ground bars within the power strip to fully isolate every device from safety ground AND from each other, but I can already do that by using a monitor with an external power brick that has no connection to ground. This stops current from flowing on the safety ground wire alltogether. Same behaviour: Workaround wires connected means perfect gameplay, wires disconnected means problems come right back with any PSU than the newest unit.

Again, what I think the problem is that there's multiple paths back to the PSU's ground within the system. The problem is contained within this closed system and external factors, like a conncted safety ground wire or not, doesn't make a difference.

Think of it as multiple ground loops within the computer. Current going into the PSU is equal to current returning from it. Everything up to the PSU's power plug is totally normal. If you were to measure the current on both live and neutral, they would be equal all the way to the PSU (it is, I've measured it). The ground loops occur after/behind the PSU.

It didn't make any difference to me... I'm going to try a gas generator these days since what made a difference for 2 weeks (I thought it was fixed) was connecting my neutral to ground at the main panel, which gives me an indicator that my problem is probably coming from my electric provider.

Damn, I'm sorry to hear that. Did you make sure to use a thick wire that can carry a lot of current? I've tried it with a tiny wire and two aligator clips at both ends, and that didn't make a difference, as the clip connections are bad and the flimsy wire can't carry enough current to make a differnce. Maybe try two wires like I did?

What electrical system are you on? If you're on TN-C-S, this connection between neutral and safety ground should already be in place. If you're on TT, this connection should not be made ever, as your house should have a ground rod somewhere outside. There should be no connection between safety ground or neutral at all in a TT system. If you're on TT, you also require a RCD.

You're probably not on TN-C because if you were, there shouldn't be a grounding wire inside the main panel, as neutral and ground is separated only at the outlet. However, if you're somehow on TN-C, strongly consider investing into getting that fixed, as it is unsafe and most likely not up to electrical code, depending on where you're from.

It may be that this tweak helps some users who are close to the tipping point, while for others the offset is already well beyond that.

Possible, yes. The real problem with this is the seemingly endless amount of possibilities and variables in play. If designed with maximum perfection and only this specific problem in mind, a motherboard can probably fully account for it and "eliminate" the symptoms, even though the "problem" is still there. The GPU manufacturer could probably also make design improvements to stop this exact thing from happening. There are SO MANY of these variables in play, one singular resistor on a graphics card might be enough to make all the difference.

I'd argue it's likely every single computer has this problem to some extent. What I think is going on is that this isn't deemed a problem by hardware manufacturers. The computer works, turns on and reaches benchmark numbers after all. The little interference this creates is easily handled by error correction mechanisms without impacting the computer's performance at all.

Only specific combinations of hardware will show any problems at all. And even then, most of the time these aren't even that bad, maybe a rare USB device dropout or something minor. I'd argue the circumstances need to be pretty bad for "weirdness" to occur, like mouse input problems or desync.

We've seen these problems with internal ground loops come to light only after the 12VHPWR connectors started melting and people were investigating why only the 12v pins were damaged. The 12VHPWR connector is typically only found in high power graphics cards that require a lot of power. However, as the article from igor'sLAB says, it also happens on AMD cards with regular PCIe power connectors. I'd say the GPU model and it's power consumption plays a large part: Low-end or midrange GPU's don't even draw enough power to cause enough interference, even when the PCB design isn't ideal.

So much to consider with so little information about this available. Maybe this can influence even more stuff that we don't know about? We can hope that this will now be of more relevance, as this has to be addressed somehow if NVIDIA and AMD want to stop their GPU's from melting the 12v pins in the future.

I’m not sure why, in the latter case, they wouldn’t see more obvious disruptions—such as USB dropouts, etc.

I think it's because the problem is so elusive. It's the same thing for me: When informing myself about the "problem" for the first time, I noticed almost everybody who has the weird desync and hitreg problems also has some form of mouse/input lag. However, I don't have mouse problems at all and can't recall ever having them. It's likely because the motherboards I've been using keep the USB "far enough away" from the interference, while the network card is affected at the same time. This can obviously be flipped, where people have mouse problems but no desync/hitreg problems, it can be both at the same time and also nothing at all.

Also, I think we see effects of this in the wild. The article from igor'sLAB already shows some effects of this in the form of audio disruptions, I've seen threads on other forums about USB devices malfunctioning which was seemingly fixed by using another USB port, seen people fixing internet speeds with a PCIe network card instead of using the onboard adapter...

[dervu]

If anyone wants to find good wire for that:
https://www.tme.eu/en/details/st-010-20 ... s/connect/
Fits right on standard 3mm screws on 500DX case.

[ZINZIRIO]

disable ground on your panel and retest it.

Doesn't make a difference, which makes sense. If what I've found out here is really the root cause of my issues, which I am now more and more sure of it is, it's a problem with the hardware itself and how PCB's are designed. There's nothing you could ever do to fully isolate the GPU so it's only connected to ground at one point, as it needs the 2x PCIe power plugs and the GND pins in the PCIe slot at the very least, even if you could isolate it from the case.

Safety ground coming from the socket has almost no impact here. Yes, I've observed another path back to the PSU's ground via the DisplayPort cable and the monitor's 3-prong cable, but the current flowing there was very low in comparison. Flipping the switch on my apparatus wouldn't change this, because the ground loop doesn't come from "outside" of the system. My computer and the monitor are still connected to the same power strip, only that I can turn "off" the safety ground going into it. The loop is still there, the switch doesn't influence this.

I could theoretically cut the ground bars within the power strip to fully isolate every device from safety ground AND from each other, but I can already do that by using a monitor with an external power brick that has no connection to ground. This stops current from flowing on the safety ground wire alltogether. Same behaviour: Workaround wires connected means perfect gameplay, wires disconnected means problems come right back with any PSU than the newest unit.

Again, what I think the problem is that there's multiple paths back to the PSU's ground within the system. The problem is contained within this closed system and external factors, like a conncted safety ground wire or not, doesn't make a difference.

Think of it as multiple ground loops within the computer. Current going into the PSU is equal to current returning from it. Everything up to the PSU's power plug is totally normal. If you were to measure the current on both live and neutral, they would be equal all the way to the PSU (it is, I've measured it). The ground loops occur after/behind the PSU.

It didn't make any difference to me... I'm going to try a gas generator these days since what made a difference for 2 weeks (I thought it was fixed) was connecting my neutral to ground at the main panel, which gives me an indicator that my problem is probably coming from my electric provider.

Damn, I'm sorry to hear that. Did you make sure to use a thick wire that can carry a lot of current? I've tried it with a tiny wire and two aligator clips at both ends, and that didn't make a difference, as the clip connections are bad and the flimsy wire can't carry enough current to make a differnce. Maybe try two wires like I did?

What electrical system are you on? If you're on TN-C-S, this connection between neutral and safety ground should already be in place. If you're on TT, this connection should not be made ever, as your house should have a ground rod somewhere outside. There should be no connection between safety ground or neutral at all in a TT system. If you're on TT, you also require a RCD.

You're probably not on TN-C because if you were, there shouldn't be a grounding wire inside the main panel, as neutral and ground is separated only at the outlet. However, if you're somehow on TN-C, strongly consider investing into getting that fixed, as it is unsafe and most likely not up to electrical code, depending on where you're from.

It may be that this tweak helps some users who are close to the tipping point, while for others the offset is already well beyond that.

Possible, yes. The real problem with this is the seemingly endless amount of possibilities and variables in play. If designed with maximum perfection and only this specific problem in mind, a motherboard can probably fully account for it and "eliminate" the symptoms, even though the "problem" is still there. The GPU manufacturer could probably also make design improvements to stop this exact thing from happening. There are SO MANY of these variables in play, one singular resistor on a graphics card might be enough to make all the difference.

I'd argue it's likely every single computer has this problem to some extent. What I think is going on is that this isn't deemed a problem by hardware manufacturers. The computer works, turns on and reaches benchmark numbers after all. The little interference this creates is easily handled by error correction mechanisms without impacting the computer's performance at all.

Only specific combinations of hardware will show any problems at all. And even then, most of the time these aren't even that bad, maybe a rare USB device dropout or something minor. I'd argue the circumstances need to be pretty bad for "weirdness" to occur, like mouse input problems or desync.

We've seen these problems with internal ground loops come to light only after the 12VHPWR connectors started melting and people were investigating why only the 12v pins were damaged. The 12VHPWR connector is typically only found in high power graphics cards that require a lot of power. However, as the article from igor'sLAB says, it also happens on AMD cards with regular PCIe power connectors. I'd say the GPU model and it's power consumption plays a large part: Low-end or midrange GPU's don't even draw enough power to cause enough interference, even when the PCB design isn't ideal.

So much to consider with so little information about this available. Maybe this can influence even more stuff that we don't know about? We can hope that this will now be of more relevance, as this has to be addressed somehow if NVIDIA and AMD want to stop their GPU's from melting the 12v pins in the future.

I’m not sure why, in the latter case, they wouldn’t see more obvious disruptions—such as USB dropouts, etc.

I think it's because the problem is so elusive. It's the same thing for me: When informing myself about the "problem" for the first time, I noticed almost everybody who has the weird desync and hitreg problems also has some form of mouse/input lag. However, I don't have mouse problems at all and can't recall ever having them. It's likely because the motherboards I've been using keep the USB "far enough away" from the interference, while the network card is affected at the same time. This can obviously be flipped, where people have mouse problems but no desync/hitreg problems, it can be both at the same time and also nothing at all.

Also, I think we see effects of this in the wild. The article from igor'sLAB already shows some effects of this in the form of audio disruptions, I've seen threads on other forums about USB devices malfunctioning which was seemingly fixed by using another USB port, seen people fixing internet speeds with a PCIe network card instead of using the onboard adapter...

I have a TT, but I still tried connecting the neutral to ground, but with a different rod than the one I use for protection, and everything worked perfectly for 2 weeks. Why shouldn't I connect the neutral to ground in TT? And why do you think it worked for 2 weeks and then the problem returned? Thanks.

[ChristophSmaul1337]

Why shouldn't I connect the neutral to ground in TT?

The simple answer would be: "Because it's not designed to be like that and it poses a safety hazard". The more sophisticated answer is of course more complex than that, but it all boils down to safety and not burning your house down. For now, I'm assuming you're using a 3-phase system, so you get 4 wires from the power company: Three phases and one neutral. These wires used by your power company aren't just randomly picked out of a stack, but their cross section / wire gauge is deliberately chosen for the application at hand.

Let's think about what the ground wire is actually for and how your electrical installation can keep you from getting killed if a fault occurs. In a TN-C-S system, you get 4 wires delivered to your home: Three phases and a PEN (Protective Earth Neutral). At your service entrance, the PEN wire is split up into PE and N, and they're never connected again afterwards. In a TT system, you get the same 4 wires, but the fourth wire is now purely a N wire. The PE wire is provided locally, with a ground rod outside. These two are never connected together anywhere within the installation.

Now, let's consider a class 1 appliance, like a computer for example. It has a metal case which you can easily touch. Let's make a hypothetical scenario: Your power supply fails, for whatever reason, in a way that the live wire comes into contact with any part of the computer case. This energizes the entire computer case to, in my case, 240v. If a human would now come into contact with this faulty case, he would likely die from touching the 240v. This is what's called a ground fault.

Let's see how the PE wire nullifies the threat in both electrical installation types. In a TN-C-S system, your main panel is equipped with circuit breakers. A typical household breaker is rated for either 10A or 16A. If a device fails in the above mentioned manner, it forms a dead short: Live comes in from the power company, goes to the computer, touches the computer case, the case is connected to safety ground (PE) which is bonded with the neutral wire, forming the PEN wire inside the main panel, back to the transformer. Now there is a low-resistance path for the current to flow, which creates a HUGE current. The circuit breaker will immediately sense this massive amount of current and trip. Crisis averted. For a brief moment before the circuit breaker trips, the wires need to withstand the insane amount of current caused by the dead short. Therefore, the PEN wire needs to have a certain gauge in order to not burn up when presented with the current in case of a ground fault.

Second of all, the resistance of the PEN needs to be sufficiently small. In a typical 240v installation with 16A breakers, the resistance on the PEN wire can't exceed 15 ohm at most. If the resistance is any higher, there isn't enough current generated by the dead short to trip the breaker. For this reason, the PEN wire needs to be of low-enough resistance. If your power company can't guarantee a sufficiently low resistance, they won't install a TN-C-S system.

In a TT system, your main panel is also equipped with regular circuit breakers, and you'll find a "main breaker" too, which is called a RCD. This device measures the current leaving via the live wire and the current returning on the neutral wire. If these are imbalanced, the RCD trips. In case of a ground fault, there's an imbalance happening: Current enters via the live wire, touches the case, goes into the PE wire into the ground rod outside. The literal earth forms a good-enough conductor for current to return to the source, the transformer, which is also grounded via ground rods. TT system RCD's usually are rated for very low currents.

A RCD is mandatory because in virtually any case the resistance of the path through the soil is higher than would be necessary to trip a regular 10A breaker. My RCD is a 300mA one, which means an imbalance of 300mA or greater will trip the RCD.

Yes, the only difference between the two systems from an installation standpoint is the bridge between PE and N. In theory, you could do it and it would work as long as there is not fault happening. However, the neutral wire coming from your power company was never designed to handle fault currents. There is a good reason why your installation is TT, likely because the neutral wire isn't low resistance enough to be used as a PEN. This hints at the possibility that the neutral's gauge isn't that large. In case of a ground fault, the neutral might catch fire and burn your house down. If this happens, your insurance will find out that you did the connection and you'll be left responsible.

As much as I'm happy to hear that it helped you, bonding neutral and PE in a TT system isn't a solution. It's dangerous and you should undo that modification.

And why do you think it worked for 2 weeks and then the problem returned?

I honestly have no idea. You probably have a completely different problem than what I'm experiencing. The "coming back" part is interesting to me, did you also happen to reseat anything in your computer at the same time you did the modification in your panel (when it became better)? It's a load of guesswork at this point, but I'm not entirely convinced your problem isn't at least somewhat related to what I've found. Whatever it might be, good luck in finding it.

Good luck with trying that. Can you measure the current your wire is carrying when the GPU is under heavy load?

[dervu]

Good luck with trying that. Can you measure the current your wire is carrying when the GPU is under heavy load?

Clamp meter on this strap shows 0.10 to 0.20A. While on DP it is 0.03A. All under full GPU load.

[ZINZIRIO]

Why shouldn't I connect the neutral to ground in TT?

The simple answer would be: "Because it's not designed to be like that and it poses a safety hazard". The more sophisticated answer is of course more complex than that, but it all boils down to safety and not burning your house down. For now, I'm assuming you're using a 3-phase system, so you get 4 wires from the power company: Three phases and one neutral. These wires used by your power company aren't just randomly picked out of a stack, but their cross section / wire gauge is deliberately chosen for the application at hand.

Let's think about what the ground wire is actually for and how your electrical installation can keep you from getting killed if a fault occurs. In a TN-C-S system, you get 4 wires delivered to your home: Three phases and a PEN (Protective Earth Neutral). At your service entrance, the PEN wire is split up into PE and N, and they're never connected again afterwards. In a TT system, you get the same 4 wires, but the fourth wire is now purely a N wire. The PE wire is provided locally, with a ground rod outside. These two are never connected together anywhere within the installation.

Now, let's consider a class 1 appliance, like a computer for example. It has a metal case which you can easily touch. Let's make a hypothetical scenario: Your power supply fails, for whatever reason, in a way that the live wire comes into contact with any part of the computer case. This energizes the entire computer case to, in my case, 240v. If a human would now come into contact with this faulty case, he would likely die from touching the 240v. This is what's called a ground fault.

Let's see how the PE wire nullifies the threat in both electrical installation types. In a TN-C-S system, your main panel is equipped with circuit breakers. A typical household breaker is rated for either 10A or 16A. If a device fails in the above mentioned manner, it forms a dead short: Live comes in from the power company, goes to the computer, touches the computer case, the case is connected to safety ground (PE) which is bonded with the neutral wire, forming the PEN wire inside the main panel, back to the transformer. Now there is a low-resistance path for the current to flow, which creates a HUGE current. The circuit breaker will immediately sense this massive amount of current and trip. Crisis averted. For a brief moment before the circuit breaker trips, the wires need to withstand the insane amount of current caused by the dead short. Therefore, the PEN wire needs to have a certain gauge in order to not burn up when presented with the current in case of a ground fault.

Second of all, the resistance of the PEN needs to be sufficiently small. In a typical 240v installation with 16A breakers, the resistance on the PEN wire can't exceed 15 ohm at most. If the resistance is any higher, there isn't enough current generated by the dead short to trip the breaker. For this reason, the PEN wire needs to be of low-enough resistance. If your power company can't guarantee a sufficiently low resistance, they won't install a TN-C-S system.

In a TT system, your main panel is also equipped with regular circuit breakers, and you'll find a "main breaker" too, which is called a RCD. This device measures the current leaving via the live wire and the current returning on the neutral wire. If these are imbalanced, the RCD trips. In case of a ground fault, there's an imbalance happening: Current enters via the live wire, touches the case, goes into the PE wire into the ground rod outside. The literal earth forms a good-enough conductor for current to return to the source, the transformer, which is also grounded via ground rods. TT system RCD's usually are rated for very low currents.

A RCD is mandatory because in virtually any case the resistance of the path through the soil is higher than would be necessary to trip a regular 10A breaker. My RCD is a 300mA one, which means an imbalance of 300mA or greater will trip the RCD.

Yes, the only difference between the two systems from an installation standpoint is the bridge between PE and N. In theory, you could do it and it would work as long as there is not fault happening. However, the neutral wire coming from your power company was never designed to handle fault currents. There is a good reason why your installation is TT, likely because the neutral wire isn't low resistance enough to be used as a PEN. This hints at the possibility that the neutral's gauge isn't that large. In case of a ground fault, the neutral might catch fire and burn your house down. If this happens, your insurance will find out that you did the connection and you'll be left responsible.

As much as I'm happy to hear that it helped you, bonding neutral and PE in a TT system isn't a solution. It's dangerous and you should undo that modification.

And why do you think it worked for 2 weeks and then the problem returned?

I honestly have no idea. You probably have a completely different problem than what I'm experiencing. The "coming back" part is interesting to me, did you also happen to reseat anything in your computer at the same time you did the modification in your panel (when it became better)? It's a load of guesswork at this point, but I'm not entirely convinced your problem isn't at least somewhat related to what I've found. Whatever it might be, good luck in finding it.

Good luck with trying that. Can you measure the current your wire is carrying when the GPU is under heavy load?

No, I didn't touch anything on my PC, I just went to the board towards the connection and instantly the mouse became extremely smoother if I disconnected it everything got worse again... I made the connection with a different ground than the one I use for protection, that is, another different rod just for the neutral but the problem came back on its own... Perhaps I would have to improve the ground much more on that connection so that it lasts permanently.

Pd: I have two cables, fase and neutral no four

[ChristophSmaul1337]

Clamp meter on this strap shows 0.10 to 0.20A. While on DP it is 0.03A. All under full GPU load.

See, that's interesting to me. I assume you're using the 4090 in your signature. That card under full load can draw up to 450W if not overclocked. My 2080 Ti currently isn't overclocked so it can only draw 300W maximum. On my "workaround wire", there is up to 2A when under full load. Either your wire's connection to the case/GPU isn't ideal or the current in your system takes entirely different paths in the first place. I've noticed the screw I saw in the picture you posted is coated with black paint, I would try to replace that with an unpainted one just to see if the connection quality is limited. But again, maybe the current takes a different path alltogether.

No, I didn't touch anything on my PC, I just went to the board towards the connection and instantly the mouse became extremely smoother if I disconnected it everything got worse again...

Interesting, I think you clearly have something going on with your safety ground. If it's that noticeable and you can instantly feel a difference, you might want to look more into that. In that case, I think your problem is quite different from what I'm getting.

Let's see. Your grounding system is TT, that means every house is responsible for its own safety ground and no house gets a safety ground from the utility. With TN-C-S, the safety ground would be part of the PEN wire that every house gets, so rogue devices around the neighbourhood could impact the noise level on your PEN. However, with TT, nobody gets a safety ground from the utility. As mentioned before, the reason for the utility to use the TT system in the first place is probably because the supposed PEN would be too high resistance or too low gauge. That is the case for every house in the neighbourhood at least, so it can be assumed nobody around you has TN-C-S. I'm assuming that you've already gotten your electrical installation checked, because it's not uncommon for the utility to change installation types. If not, consider calling somebody to check up on your installation. Maybe the utility changed to TN-C-S and your house never got the memo...

Another factor could be that in the past, water pipes have been used as substitute ground rods. A long time ago, that was allowed but nowadays, this isn't how it's done anymore as current on water pipes will cause corrosion over time. Every newly built house these days requires a real ground rod. Furthermore, water companies have begun changing out metal pipes with plastic ones. As plastic isn't electrically conductive, the "makeshift ground rod" aka. water pipe isn't really a ground rod anymore. The obvious problem is that your RCD won't work anymore, as current can't flow into the ground in the first place. This would also create a "floating ground" across your whole house. You can check if you have a ground rod when looking at your potential equalization rail. It should be in the basement or utility room somewhere. If that thing has a rod going into the floor connected to it, you're good. It should look like this: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/ ... chiene.jpg This image shows the ground rod on the right. If not, look if you can find it somewhere and if you can't, call an electrician to have it checked up for you. This can be a safety hazard.

The supposed interference should be local to your house. Have you tried turning off all breakers in your house except the one with the computer on it? Try to unplug basically everything except the computer and monitor, then try agian. A rogue device in your house might be spewing out a lot of interference, which somehow gets onto the safety ground and screws with your system.

As to why the problems came back, your guess is as good as mine...

I have two cables, fase and neutral no four

Ah yes, a single phase installation. Yes, that's about right depending on where you're from. The national electric code in your country probably governs this and it's one way of doing it. Nothing to worry about, that's fine.