My experience with all sorts of Problems regularly mentioned here.

[dervu]

Clamp meter on this strap shows 0.10 to 0.20A. While on DP it is 0.03A. All under full GPU load.

See, that's interesting to me. I assume you're using the 4090 in your signature. That card under full load can draw up to 450W if not overclocked. My 2080 Ti currently isn't overclocked so it can only draw 300W maximum. On my "workaround wire", there is up to 2A when under full load. Either your wire's connection to the case/GPU isn't ideal or the current in your system takes entirely different paths in the first place. I've noticed the screw I saw in the picture you posted is coated with black paint, I would try to replace that with an unpainted one just to see if the connection quality is limited. But again, maybe the current takes a different path alltogether.

Yes, it's a 4090, but with a 70% power limit—so slightly above your maximum.
It might be that in my case, it's just taking a better path. Makes me wonder what the correct mV values are between the GPU IO and PSU.
Also, my situation is a bit different, as I’ve always had varying symptoms depending on the day.
I guess it might help if the issue is inside the PC, but in a issue case like mine, it can only lower the noise floor—making it easier for the whole system to filter out the crap coming in. Still, depending on the strength of the interference, that might not be enough.
I’ll see if more can be done, but based on how your symptoms manifest and the higher values you’re seeing, it might be irrelevant for me (or relevant if it helps divert any external interference).

Anyway, it's interesting to see what can be improved. I’ll also report back in the coming months when the probable source of my issues is removed (an old elevator motor with confirmed interference on AM radio and on an RFI spectrum analyzer). I’ll check if any of those measurements correlate with this or if the strap itself makes any difference - assuming the issue disappears, of course.

[ZINZIRIO]

Clamp meter on this strap shows 0.10 to 0.20A. While on DP it is 0.03A. All under full GPU load.

See, that's interesting to me. I assume you're using the 4090 in your signature. That card under full load can draw up to 450W if not overclocked. My 2080 Ti currently isn't overclocked so it can only draw 300W maximum. On my "workaround wire", there is up to 2A when under full load. Either your wire's connection to the case/GPU isn't ideal or the current in your system takes entirely different paths in the first place. I've noticed the screw I saw in the picture you posted is coated with black paint, I would try to replace that with an unpainted one just to see if the connection quality is limited. But again, maybe the current takes a different path alltogether.

No, I didn't touch anything on my PC, I just went to the board towards the connection and instantly the mouse became extremely smoother if I disconnected it everything got worse again...

Interesting, I think you clearly have something going on with your safety ground. If it's that noticeable and you can instantly feel a difference, you might want to look more into that. In that case, I think your problem is quite different from what I'm getting.

Let's see. Your grounding system is TT, that means every house is responsible for its own safety ground and no house gets a safety ground from the utility. With TN-C-S, the safety ground would be part of the PEN wire that every house gets, so rogue devices around the neighbourhood could impact the noise level on your PEN. However, with TT, nobody gets a safety ground from the utility. As mentioned before, the reason for the utility to use the TT system in the first place is probably because the supposed PEN would be too high resistance or too low gauge. That is the case for every house in the neighbourhood at least, so it can be assumed nobody around you has TN-C-S. I'm assuming that you've already gotten your electrical installation checked, because it's not uncommon for the utility to change installation types. If not, consider calling somebody to check up on your installation. Maybe the utility changed to TN-C-S and your house never got the memo...

Another factor could be that in the past, water pipes have been used as substitute ground rods. A long time ago, that was allowed but nowadays, this isn't how it's done anymore as current on water pipes will cause corrosion over time. Every newly built house these days requires a real ground rod. Furthermore, water companies have begun changing out metal pipes with plastic ones. As plastic isn't electrically conductive, the "makeshift ground rod" aka. water pipe isn't really a ground rod anymore. The obvious problem is that your RCD won't work anymore, as current can't flow into the ground in the first place. This would also create a "floating ground" across your whole house. You can check if you have a ground rod when looking at your potential equalization rail. It should be in the basement or utility room somewhere. If that thing has a rod going into the floor connected to it, you're good. It should look like this: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/ ... chiene.jpg This image shows the ground rod on the right. If not, look if you can find it somewhere and if you can't, call an electrician to have it checked up for you. This can be a safety hazard.

The supposed interference should be local to your house. Have you tried turning off all breakers in your house except the one with the computer on it? Try to unplug basically everything except the computer and monitor, then try agian. A rogue device in your house might be spewing out a lot of interference, which somehow gets onto the safety ground and screws with your system.

As to why the problems came back, your guess is as good as mine...

I have two cables, fase and neutral no four

Ah yes, a single phase installation. Yes, that's about right depending on where you're from. The national electric code in your country probably governs this and it's one way of doing it. Nothing to worry about, that's fine.

Interesting!! I made that connection to an old ground wire in my house, and it's connected to a water pipe, maybe that's why the problem returned! Tomorrow I'm going to try making the same connection, but with a real ground wire where I have three copper rods... Maybe you're right, they put TN-CS here and didn't notify me... I hope I have luck tomorrow... I'll let you know if it's fixed. Thanks so much!! By the way: If you have any discord or something to talk about, it would be very helpful.

[ChristophSmaul1337]

Interesting!! I made that connection to an old ground wire in my house, and it's connected to a water pipe, maybe that's why the problem returned!

Here in Germany, this isn't allowed since around 2002 or so. However before that, it was done regularly on new installations, so it comes down to what's in your national electric code. It might be totally normal where you're from and it might as well be standard practice to do it this way even today. I would look up the situation in your country and if you can find information about it online.

By the way: If you have any discord or something to talk about, it would be very helpful.

I don't have Discord as that application is just horrible, I do have Steam (https://steamcommunity.com/profiles/76561198081424582) but in all honesty, I'd like to keep conversations public as it might help people who maybe don't have an account here and read along. You can add me if you want, but keep the questions in here.

[ZINZIRIO]

How can I know from my side if I have to connect with TN-S, meaning a different ground for the neutral than for the safety ground, or a TN-CS that shares the same, neutral and safety ground on the same rod? Today I made the connection from TT to TN-S and the mouse becomes very fluid and all the desynchronization problems disappear... But my question is which system to use, assuming that with either of the two the problem never returns.

[ChristophSmaul1337]

How can I know from my side if I have to connect with TN-S, meaning a different ground for the neutral than for the safety ground, or a TN-CS that shares the same, neutral and safety ground on the same rod?

You might be able to guess from looking at the breaker panel: Think about your panel for a second and go back in time to before you made any changes or modifications. You said you get 2 wires delivered to your main electrical panel from the utility. First question to ask would be if you live in a house or if it's an apartment building. If it's a house, make sure the panel you're looking at is actually the main panel for the whole house. If it is, you should look at the color of the wires coming in. One of them is either black, grey or brown. That would be the live wire. The other one is colored either blue or yellow-green striped with blue mixed in. If the second wire is blue, it's a TT system, and if it's yellow-green striped with blue mixed in it's a TN-C-S system. However, color coding isn't always done right and can be wrong. So, for you to confirm it, think about the connection between the second wire and the grounding wire. Was there a connection there in the first place, did you take it out or was it not there at all before? If it wasn't there, it's likely TT, if it was it's likely TN-C-S.

More hurdles for you: Is your main panel actually the first thing the wire from the utility encounters inside your house? There might be a box we call "Hausanschlusskasten" (=house connection box). It contains the main fuses for the whole house. It looks something like this: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/ ... A_500V.jpg This contains the 3 main 63A fuses (I have a 3-phase installation). If the electrical installation was done right and you're on TN-C-S, the PEN wire should be split up into PE and N inside this box. However, after this box, there should then be 3 wires going to your main breaker panel, 1 phase, 1 neutral and 1 PE/ground. Is your incoming wire a PEN and was it split up inside this fuse box? I for example can't tell, because it's sealed and only licensed electricians are allowed to open it up (it's before the electricity meter). Maybe your installation is supposed to be TN-C-S and somebody forgot to run the PE wire from the main fuse box to the breaker panel. Maybe you're getting a blue neutral wire, which would be a regular TT, but you're actually supposed to get a PEN. Or maybe it's just a regular TT and it's supposed to be like that.´If you're in an apartment building, it's even more convoluted as your breaker box definitely isn't the first thing the wires encounter within the building...

In short, the safest and most reliable way of figuring out what your grounding system is supposed to be is to call the system operator and ask. If they can't answer, call a licensed electrician. If he won't tell you, either call another one or have one come to your home and check the installation.

But my question is which system to use, assuming that with either of the two the problem never returns.

That's a question only the utility will be able to answer. You can make a good educated guess, but you can never be certain. The grounding system is governed by the utility, more specifically by something we refer to as the "Netzbetreiber" (=electrical system operator), the company that ownes the physical infrastructure. This doesn't necessarily have to be the company you pay, as companies can resell foreign infrastructure, similar to internet providers. Try calling your power company first. They might or might not give you the information. If they don't or can't, call the system operator. Your electricity meter might have a sticker on it with a phone number to call in case of a fault, and that number usually belongs to the system operator. They will definitely have the information on your grounding system, however they might not give it to you. In that case, call a licensed electrician. Any electrician worth their pay should have access to the database of the grounding system used at your address, and they should also be able to tell immediately from looking at the panel if everything was done right.

Today I made the connection from TT to TN-S and the mouse becomes very fluid and all the desynchronization problems disappear...

Could indicate that your grounding is really bad or non-existent. You mentioned in a previous post that you found a connection from your earthing system to the water pipes. If your water company ever changed out a bit of pipe, they very likely inserted a plastic piece. This nullifies the grounding in your house. If this is what was relied on to create the safety ground for the RCD to trip, I would highly suggest getting an electrician anyways, because your installation might very well not be safe anymore.

Here's my honest advice: Call your utility, system operator or an electrician and get info on which grounding system is used at your address right now. After making that call and having it confirmed, post the result here. If it's confirmed that you should be on TT, get an electrician to check out your installation and have him take a measurement of ground resistance and RCD trigger times.

Weird mouse input and computer problems aside, a TT system without a proper ground rod and therefore too high of ground resistance is a huge safety hazard and you should get it fixed ASAP.

EDIT: Apart from the safety concerns, I still stand by the opinion that the safety grounding doesn't influence the computer when under normal conditions. There are countries whose national electric code doesn't even require a 3-prong outlet and devices are never grounded. One such example is Egypt. Nevertheless, people from Egypt can play video games just fine and not every Egyptian ever in the existance of the country suffered from weird mouse problems or desync. Safety ground, apart from the obvious function as a safety feature, doesn't have any function inside the computer. It's there for one thing only, to protect the user in case of a ground fault.

The fact that the safety ground is bonded to the DC ground inside the PSU however might lead to weirdness, but why that would happen and under which circumstances I'm nowhere near qualified enough to make sense of. What I've seen so far, noise, interference or whatever else might be on the safety ground which isn't supposed to be there, can influence the way a computer functions, possibly by changing the path the DC return current takes back to the PSU. It's the best guess I have so far.

[ZINZIRIO]

How can I know from my side if I have to connect with TN-S, meaning a different ground for the neutral than for the safety ground, or a TN-CS that shares the same, neutral and safety ground on the same rod? Today I made the connection from TT to TN-S and the mouse becomes very fluid and all the desynchronization problems disappear... But my question is which system to use, assuming that with either of the two the problem never returns.

Unfortunately the problem returned as expected... I am completely unsure if the problem is with respect to ground or has to do with the quality of the energy I am receiving through the neutral... Installing solar panels is not an option so I guess I will never solve it, it is quite frustrating... I have tried absolutely everything and the problem always returns... The only thing that has made a noticeable difference for me is connecting the neutral to ground but for some reason everything is filled with that static again.

I'm seriously considering trying an isolation transformer, but no one has solved the problem with one, so my hopes are very low, and once I buy it, I can't return it.

[dervu]

How can I know from my side if I have to connect with TN-S, meaning a different ground for the neutral than for the safety ground, or a TN-CS that shares the same, neutral and safety ground on the same rod? Today I made the connection from TT to TN-S and the mouse becomes very fluid and all the desynchronization problems disappear... But my question is which system to use, assuming that with either of the two the problem never returns.

Unfortunately the problem returned as expected... I am completely unsure if the problem is with respect to ground or has to do with the quality of the energy I am receiving through the neutral... Installing solar panels is not an option so I guess I will never solve it, it is quite frustrating... I have tried absolutely everything and the problem always returns... The only thing that has made a noticeable difference for me is connecting the neutral to ground but for some reason everything is filled with that static again.

I'm seriously considering trying an isolation transformer, but no one has solved the problem with one, so my hopes are very low, and once I buy it, I can't return it.

There is always Hail Mary way and try out:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YHhGt-z62wU&t=1s
Online UPS + Some good filter + med isolation transformer, but yes it might be hard to return.

[[email protected]]

I'll add some interesting context to your conversation, I've had this problem for many years, so recently I decided to use my redmi 13 phone instead of the monitor, using the spacedesk program, I disconnected the monitor from the PC and was stunned by the picture, the quality itself is quite poor (1024x768), there is a delay of about half a second because it is used wifi, but the picture when scrolling and in the game is a real ideal. 30 Hertz looks smoother than 144 on my monitor, I'll attach a video for you. In general, there is reason to believe that the problem lies precisely in the ports of the video card, which are subject to some kind of interference, since bypassing them, everything becomes fine. The ru community is with you, good luck to all.
Link's
HDMI or DP doesn't matter.

[shdoi]

"And here is the possible ground loop happening: From the power strip, to the computer's power supply, to the graphics card via the PCIe slot and power connectors as well as the computer case itself, over the DisplayPort cable to the monitor, and back to the power strip. This might cause interference, as many audio technicians will attest to."

hmmmm..... i think you might want to check this...

viewtopic.php?f=10&t=14494&sid=e3be93ba ... 0cf49d2b8c

plus
i tried your method using copper wires from Gpu bracket to the power supply
and yes that fixed the problem BUT..
it kinda fix it by like 70%? my aim is WAY better than before but still not perfect as when the problem just go away randomly for few days
like others mentioned

might because i used thinner wires ( not even close to yours)


i was curios to know if i just take everything OUT of the case
will this solve it ?





anyway im fine with results for now since we kinda now the problem and how we might be able to deal with it


thanks for your hard work even after u solve yours
u didn't stop for the others

[Slender]

https://imgur.com/a/bi7eYxK