Blur Busters Forums

I tried just now, nothing changed. Still Generic NON-PNP monitor on DVI, and works fine with DP.

Actually the bigger question is,
does the DVI port not work on both computers?
including the laptop with Linux?
have you tried uninstalling the Nvidia drivers, running driver sweeper and reinstalling?
I think all of us are surprised because this is the first time this has happened.

We know the XL2420Z firmware V4 dump (in the same archive as the xl2720Z V4) is fully working.
Masterotaku upgraded his (RL) friend's XL2420Z with V4 with it, while he upgraded his own XL2411Z with the whitestar backup dump.

Maybe someone else can help, but I don't know how a flash could mess up an EDID. The EDID isn't even flashed in the first place.
Someone actually did a crossflash of an XL2411T to an XL2411Z, and after the flash, the monitor complained that the EDID Was incorrect. He used a tool to flash the correct edid (another Linux tool) and he had a working XL2411Z without blur reduction (the green wire did nothing). He was going to attempt a hardware hack and try to get blur reduction working but we never heard back from him (his last post just said that enabling MBR would just make the backlight excessively bright. This is the same thing that happens on our screens when you attempt "single strobe" at 50hz refresh rate without a vertical total tweak (50hz single strobe data is missing from the firmware; it only works if you enforce 60hz backlight pulse widths (Vertical total tweaks do this) and use a strobe phase of 018 or higher.

So the EDID isn't the problem. And you said you used two different computers to flash back and forth and it looks like everything else was successful.

Pardon me if I asked before, but do BOTH computers use UEFI motherboard bioses or legacy? (on both my laptop and desktop, they use legacy bios only, that's why I was able to flash on my R9 290x through DVI).

about the new AMA mode and the blurry UFO's:

You get the blurry UFOs' if you are not using a vertical total 1500 tweak.
You can improve that massively by using a vertical total 1500 tweak at 100 and 120hz refresh rate, via a custom resolution. (Over DVI (which you said is currently not working), you need the AMD/NVidia pixel clock patcher. Displayport doesn't need the patcher).
The AMA 'flash' toggle you did simply lowers the amount of inverse ghosting on the UFO's. On your monitor it should soften the amount of inverse ghosting and make things look nice. On the XL2720Z, it turns the inverse ghosting into normal ghosting (so I have to drop the contrast to get a truly improved picture; you shouldn't have to on the 24").

DVI port doesn't work on either computer, in both Linux and Windows. In Ubuntu, there is no signal no matter how many times I replug the thing (I'm talking about the usb "Try Ubuntu" type linux btw, not a full install, if that makes any difference).

In Windows, there is no signal as soon as the os loads BUT, after loading, when you unplug/plug the DVI cable, you get the NON-PNP Generic thing that I've told you. Btw, on the screen resolution window of Windows, when you click Detect, signal goes again, and screen turns black with "No Signal" warning. You have to unplug/plug the cable in order to make it "work" in Non-Pnp mode again.

Both computers have different video cards (GTX680 vs GTX580M) so I really doubt it can be a driver issue. Oh btw, in case you were wondering, I've recently formatted the windows installation on my laptop (literally 3-4 hours before starting flashing), and made a clean install. This was before all the patching, to see if something else was causing the ghosting. Then I've found out about flashing firmware, and you know the rest.

I'm fairly sure the firmware is working, because it works in DisplayPort. The hidden AMA setting as well.

Not sure about UEFI or legacy BUT, there was a setting on pc while trying to boot UBUNTU from the usb. Both had the same name but one was UEFI, and UEFI one didn't boot properly. So I went back and used the one without UEFI. Not sure about my laptop. I'll check back in a minute.

I have checked the Blur Busters Utility page, and it was suggested that when using NVIDIA, the vertical total tweak should be 1350. And I did that using Nvidia control panel, as suggested, which improved the ghosting of UFO's on lower part of the screen incredibly. There is almost no ghosting, all is a lot smoother. I'm using 120hz as suggested, since there isn't a setting for 144hz.

Do you still want me to increase it to 1500, instead of 1350? Because everything looks pretty good to me at the moment.


Update: Checked the laptop bios and there is a setting called "Legacy Usb Support" which is enabled. Couldn't find anything else related to the subject.

The max VT possible is 1502. Some custom refresh rates may show issues, depending on what you use, so most of the time, a value of 1498 to 1502 will work. 85 hz refresh rate (on mine) requires 1501. 1502, 1500, 1499 and 1498 all stutter, while 1501 is flawless. At 120hz, 1500 is flawless while 1502 works 'sometimes'. At 125 hz refresh rate, I need to use 1498.

This is on 2720Z.
You get the most improvement in the bottom by 1498-1502. Lightboost mode which uses accelerated scanout via the LC panel is similar to a 1502 tweak. Using our 1502 tweak makes the panel act similarly to lightboost mode.

The lower the refresh rate, the lower the vertical total you need to get a good image. At 128 hz refresh rate (about the maximum possible that can use VT's), even 1502 isn't enough. 100 hz is pretty nice with VT 1502. Any refresh rate at 80hz and lower that works with VT 1502 has absolutely ZERO crosstalk at the bottom of the screen. Strangely enough, 60 hz works with 1260 (with masterotaku's strange timings, you can use 1360) while 61 hz (just 1 more hz) works with VT 1502 ! But 1350 is enough at 60'ish hz to give low crosstalk.

Sorry about the DVI problems. I Think all of us are as surprised about it. If you have a spare monitor you could probably RMA it to Benq if V3 is still on it.

To change the topic slightly, anyone ever figure out what "RS232" actually does, and what "ONLINE GAMMA" is in that factory menu?
V2 and V3 say Online Gamma: "Yes" while V4 says "NO"

I did some small time studying here and found out that when I had two options for booting the stick (UEFI: Kingston USB and just Kingston USB) I accidentally chose the correct one that runs the boot in legacy mode. Or that's how I understood it by reading up.

So I guess my desktop PC is out of the question since either gtx780 nor iGPU worked on multiple attempts. Trying again next week with another laptop though.

Falkentyne wrote:The max VT possible is 1502. Some custom refresh rates may show issues, depending on what you use, so most of the time, a value of 1498 to 1502 will work. 85 hz refresh rate (on mine) requires 1501. 1502, 1500, 1499 and 1498 all stutter, while 1501 is flawless. At 120hz, 1500 is flawless while 1502 works 'sometimes'. At 125 hz refresh rate, I need to use 1498.

This is on 2720Z.
You get the most improvement in the bottom by 1498-1502. Lightboost mode which uses accelerated scanout via the LC panel is similar to a 1502 tweak. Using our 1502 tweak makes the panel act similarly to lightboost mode.

The lower the refresh rate, the lower the vertical total you need to get a good image. At 128 hz refresh rate (about the maximum possible that can use VT's), even 1502 isn't enough. 100 hz is pretty nice with VT 1502. Any refresh rate at 80hz and lower that works with VT 1502 has absolutely ZERO crosstalk at the bottom of the screen. Strangely enough, 60 hz works with 1260 (with masterotaku's strange timings, you can use 1360) while 61 hz (just 1 more hz) works with VT 1502 ! But 1350 is enough at 60'ish hz to give low crosstalk.

Sorry about the DVI problems. I Think all of us are as surprised about it. If you have a spare monitor you could probably RMA it to Benq if V3 is still on it.

To change the topic slightly, anyone ever figure out what "RS232" actually does, and what "ONLINE GAMMA" is in that factory menu?
V2 and V3 say Online Gamma: "Yes" while V4 says "NO"

Hi!

I would be really greatful if you would want to post your other settings as well.
Like:
Front Porch
Sync Width
Back porch
Blanking
Total
Sync Polarity.

Well all other settings

Thank you!

Those settings are always default. Don't change those from default.
They usually default (for 1920x1080 or 1440x1080 or another 1080p resolution) to front porch 88,4 sync width 44,5 and horizontal total 2200.

Different values, like front porch 48/3, sync width 32,5 and HT 2080, is used when you are trying to reduce the pixel clock a bit.
Generally you only use the reduced porch/sync/horizontal total at 120 and 125hz refresh rate because if the pixel clock is too high (<396 MHz+) you may get corruption due to the DVI cable not being able to handle the speed (usually swimming shimmering pixels).

Falkentyne wrote:Those settings are always default. Don't change those from default.
They usually default (for 1920x1080 or 1440x1080 or another 1080p resolution) to front porch 88,4 sync width 44,5 and horizontal total 2200.

Different values, like front porch 48/3, sync width 32,5 and HT 2080, is used when you are trying to reduce the pixel clock a bit.
Generally you only use the reduced porch/sync/horizontal total at 120 and 125hz refresh rate because if the pixel clock is too high (<396 MHz+) you may get corruption due to the DVI cable not being able to handle the speed (usually swimming shimmering pixels).

Are you using DVI or DP on those settings? Because i'm having real trouble going over 100Hz on VT1502 without lowering the other settings.
If i go 48/3 32/5 and 2080, then i can go 110Hz. Im using Displayport and i dont think the Pixelclock patcher is working on DP.

Nevermind.

I changed to DVI-cable and I'm now able to hit 120Hz with original settings and VT1502. I changed to 119Hz just to be on the safe side though.

Seems that DisplayPort isnt the best way to use this monitor. DVI is.

I can't help you with that. sorry. I don't have a DP Cable. Never used one before.
DP doesn't need pixel clock patcher. The clock patcher is for the DVI limit, not DP.

And why doesn't your 2200 HT work over DP? Do you get an out of range error?
Yes 2200 HT 1500 VT works at 100 hz without patching (DVI). Pixel clock is 330.00 MHz exactly. VT 1502 is 330.44 or something and that's higher than 330 so it require the patcher.

So what happens over DP, then?

This isn't really the thread to discuss these things, though. This is the Linux /firmware patching thread.