Blur Busters Forums

For all readers:

Be noted, PureXP+ is easy by default, all other advanced tweaks are optional for those who want to push the low-latency envelope.

Advanced RTSS Scanline Sync stuff is optional.

happy to report that I now have RTSS properly tuned. Vsync off with no tear lines is great!

I have checked and I got the usb 3.0 cable with the extra "section" bluish type. I can control the rgb-lightning in the elite display controller. The monitor osd does not work if the program is turned on. When trying light or ultra, nothing changes. What am I doing wrong?

dl666 wrote: ↑

02 Apr 2020, 21:10

I have checked and I got the usb 3.0 cable with the extra "section" bluish type. I can control the rgb-lightning in the elite display controller. The monitor osd does not work if the program is turned on. When trying light or ultra, nothing changes. What am I doing wrong?

Make sure FreeSync is turned off before you turn on PureXP+

If there is some wonkiness, try executing a "Memory Recall" (factory reset). This can fix certain kinds of settings problems that crops up right after a firmware update. Remember, you'll have readjust everything afterwards, so if you did a lot of adjustments, write them down first.

After this, if Viewsonic Elite Desktop Controller is unable to adjust PureXP+ from the PC side, let me know (can PM me) and I'll report this to ViewSonic. Thanks!

Do you have the firmware update file that I could possibly use? Still no release. I called them to no avail.

blechliter wrote: ↑

03 Apr 2020, 10:40

Do you have the firmware update file that I could possibly use? Still no release. I called them to no avail.

1. Install ViewSonic Elite Display Controller.
2. Accept the Firmware Update it prompts you.

You will also need the USB3 (type B) cable that came with the monitor to use the XG270's built-in USB hub. The firmware upgrade is via USB cable to the monitor.

If it is not prompting you for update, they're probably doing additional testing to make sure it's not an issue.

Chief Blur Buster wrote: ↑

02 Apr 2020, 13:04

230Hz was one of the refresh rates I strobe-calibrated (undocumented). I’d predict 225Hz and 230Hz looks similiar, while 231Hz-240Hz just couldn’t be calibrated (no margins or flexibility that could be redirected to reducing strobe crosstalk).

There just wasn’t any behind-the-scenes technical headroom at full 240Hz to reduce crosstalk, but unusually, I only needed 10Hz with this specific panel to achieve noticeable crosstalk improvement at 230Hz out-of-the-box. Use Auto Timings in Custom Resolution,

For myself in personal use, I still prefer 120Hz fps=Hz for the CRT Effect, but 230Hz is definitely lower lag strobing (with somewhat tolerable crosstalk to some).

230hz looks almost identical to 225hz as far as crosstalk goes, however when I use 225hz with Automatic - LCD Standard timings in CRU it allows me to use the 10 bit color option. With 230hz and the same LCD Standard timings it only lets me select 8 bit color. Is there any different visually I would realistically notice by using 230hz with only 8 bit color? Thanks

Anthony3187 wrote: ↑

03 Apr 2020, 17:46

230hz looks almost identical to 225hz as far as crosstalk goes, however when I use 225hz with Automatic - LCD Standard timings in CRU it allows me to use the 10 bit color option. With 230hz and the same LCD Standard timings it only lets me select 8 bit color. Is there any different visually I would realistically notice by using 230hz with only 8 bit color? Thanks

Oh -- good point.

Correct, that would favour 225Hz over 230Hz.

225Hz 10bit color with reduced strobe crosstalk versus 240Hz (even if more crosstalk than 120Hz).

XG270 is advertised as 8-bit panel. So the 10-bit support is partial, for helping colorspace manipulation (i.e. picture adjustments). While the panel is not full 10bit, the 10bit supports improves picture adjustments (especially NVIDIA Control Panel picture adjustments will may have less banding artifacts at Lagom Gradient at www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/gradient.php to thanks to the 10bit-ness being preserved at the GPU output). While FRC from 6-bit ot 8-bit is often human visible on TN, any FRC (if any done) from 8-bit to 10-bit becomes much harder or impossible to see. Even I'm not sure if there's any FRC being done at all, but you will know if 10bit cable connection is helping you if you get less banding in your fog / sky / smoke (even if those are 8bit).

In other words, 10bit cable connection sometimes helps an 8-bit panel and sometimes not -- it depends on the many variables (any GPU color adjustment made, any monitor-side color adjustments made, and interactions (color remappings) between both, etc), including the final gamma remapping (2.2 default).

Try both. And load a game with smoke / fog / sky (3D graphics that often generates banding) and then look for banding artifacts in those. Depending on adjustment mades, there may be no difference, or there may be a difference. However, at a 5Hz difference, I'll take 10bit even if it doesn't help 95% of the time.

Now, 120Hz has better PureXP+ strobing, if your priority is the best strobed motion, but it's undeniable that 225Hz-and-up has less lag. (You can shrink the lagfeel difference quite a bit using the QFT trick though).

Panel law of physics (crosstalk quality) often throw a brick wall of laws of physics when strobing at max Hz. It's interesting how some vendors just disable strobing altogether (e.g. the DELL 240Hz 1ms IPS) when they find max-Hz strobing is not as good as an engineer hoped -- not knowing that even a slight Hz reduction sometimes makes a big difference on certain panels like these. It was only barely possible to get IPS to 240Hz-to-300Hz recently -- much more IPS capabilities are lurking underneath the surface (pun!) with even just slight refresh rate reductions (i.e. 10bitness, better strobe quality, better overdrive, etc).

TL;DR: Undocumented tip: 225-230Hz has better motion than 240Hz on many 1ms IPS panels, regardless of strobe setting -- strobed or non-strobed. You get better strobing, but 225Hz non-strobed also even looks better than 240Hz non-strobed due to better overdrive too. And if I had to decide between 225Hz 10bit vs 230Hz 8bit, I'll take the 10bit 225Hz even for an 8bit IPS panel because adjustments are more resistant to banding.

I upgraded my monitor with a USB2.0 type b cable. The problem wasn't that it wasn't 3.0 it was that I was using a modified registry edid (I used CRU to add custom resolutions.)

Wow I've always pushed my tear line DOWN into the vblank (for example 1090 on a 1080p screen, instead of -10 or -50) Would this add an extra frame of input lag >.< You could edit the photo that says put RTSS tear line hear to mention ABOVE the frame with a negative number.

When you enable pureXP HDR10 gets greyed out in the monitor menu but you are still able to choose 10bit in the nvidia control panel. I thought you mentioned to not pick 10bit while strobing. I recall getting worse strobe quality using 10bit @100hz vs 8bit @100hz but then again I was unaware of the color range glitch presumably only on the old firmware and it may have been that and not 10bit vs 8bit. I guess i'll have to give it a test.

Increased the vBlank in strobed mode will push the strobe cycle earlier resulting in decreased input lag but while the backlight is on it will be showing more of the transition that strobe mode is designed to hide. I've tried it and it looks HORRIBLE. I wouldn't suggest this. Maybe a small tweak would be good though.

HDR is not compatible with strobed mode, or atleast it looks horrible. You have to enable it in windows to. Go to Settings -> apps -> video playback -> windows hd color settings -> enable Play HDR games and apps. You will notice your screen change.

Also just as pureXP greys out HDR10 once you enable HDR through windows settings (and 10bit mode) it will only then grey out pureXP mode

It looks like sharpness might be enabled in HDR10 mode and it's greyed out so it can't be disabled. Maybe i'm wrong the picture looks very different so i'm not used to it.

Overwatch doesn't support hdr but maybe another game I have does

https://www.pcgamingwiki.com/wiki/List_ ... play_(HDR)


edit: If you switch HDR10 to off instead of auto in the monitor options it looks very washed out if your bit depth is set to 10bit and windows is set to hdr mode. The same way pureXP looks if you set to 10bit and windows is set to hdr mode. This confirms that 10bit is not compatible with pureXP.

Also HDR10 forces max brightness so you might want to wear some sunglasses.