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not sure what ur trying to get at. it's 2021. posting a 2013 dated vid from logi doesn't mean anything when u should have known since 2019 that 3399 is "raw 20k" whatever that meant. but if you want to contribute just try to get razer reps to respond (unless this is you doing just that). because there've been conflicting statements already recently (something 10k). and i have stated many times that there is a certain way to get optimal perf with 20k, on top of having stated many times , since 2019 that normally people don't know how nor care why normally 20k can't be used and is shit. if you want to quote anything like it's offical or canon in the entire biz, quote my findings.

Sensor oversampling is important in accurate mouse control -- it's why many 1 KHz mice had say, 6 KHz internal sensor.

Now, keep in mind that 20 KHz is not evenly divisible by 8 KHz, so it's theoretically possible artifacts appears in synthetic mouse measurements. I'm not sure what conflicting information y'all are referring to.

What matters is the real-world mouse performance is sublime. Most problems have been traced to computer performance / hardware limitations (e.g. USB issues / chipset issues / etc) / specific game limitations (e.g. doesn't scale well to high poll). Some games have their weird accidental mouse smoothing behaviors (e.g. accidentally from math rounding errors) whiles other do not. CS:GO an older engine (less precise mouse math) is more prone to that than Valorant is (more precise mouse math), especially in the high-dpi-low-sens territory. It's easy to blame the 8 KHz mouse.

about the firmware update that lists changes "cancelled residual lag above 10kdpi.....now if u have jitter you deal with it" as if anyone was actually using 10k+...even I wasn't...and honestly if there IS jitter it should be optimized, or if there isn't when done right, why joust?

about 8k ecosystem, afraid that people like the media handlers that said "we won't do 8khz" on Vaxee represent/reflect those players/userbase that are just digressive and sugarcoat it like "we don't chase numbers"...I mean there's a limit to sitting on "stability" argument for half a decade. And there is a lot of controversy over exactly who caused Zowie to be counter progressive, if they are indeed exactly those who migrated to Vaxee, and finally adopting 3389 like literally everyone else already did.

and when similar words are said by Razer's own marketing head, u can't help but wonder what is going on with this world... I do miss the age of Bale's Little Women, Maguire's Spiderman, McAvoy's Dune etc

there are still people beating the dead laser horse, i'm like, dude, if there weren't laser, optical would have never been able to chant "hey we are superior and more sturdy and less bs!"

Of course in whatever way possible advancements and progressive vibes should generate a positive feedback loop and scene... instead people's mind are fixated on what's complacent and putting food on next meal..

btw Corsair with all their exclusivity monies since cherry mx rgb (did you know they bought OriginPC?? lolwut..at least they are not Dell/HP..??) just released 8khz for k65 mini and k100 .. but it says 8khz poll and 4khz scan......

edit: and Cherry released a lateral spring switch, 0.8mm actuation yawnz (but they couldn't make the spring any smaller even tho it's a Cannondale Jekyll 2010 Dyad shock (pull shock instead of push shock) styled "pull spring" ; otherwise in terms of cramming things, it reminds of design commonly used on mini nail clippers.. ) + 1.8mm end (well at least it's not 2mm or 4mm unlike all the 100s "new" switches from OEMs literally) WITH what appears like soft clear rubber on the sides of the hard plastic LED middle section, that even allows "over travel"..but still 45N actuation rating (epic yawnz)......exclusively released on Alienware laptops of all things TOPKEK

Is this potentially related to issues with 8KHz?

I have the old microsoft intellimouse explorer 3.0 and run it with 8000 hz I still like that raw feel of it.

anyone here who has the ime 3.0 mouse and can recommend this new mouse from razer?.

I like what howeic said earlyer in this thread about the Focus+ sensor compared to 3360 and 3389 sensors.
Just having not to manually overclock all the time is great in it self, also locked to 400 dpi is to low now.

I dont know.. if it is to much like other sensors out there today maybe it is not for me.

mossfalt wrote: ↑

19 Mar 2021, 12:09

I have the old microsoft intellimouse explorer 3.0 and run it with 8000 hz I still like that raw feel of it.

anyone here who has the ime 3.0 mouse and can recommend this new mouse from razer?.

I like what howeic said earlyer in this thread about the Focus+ sensor compared to 3360 and 3389 sensors.
Just having not to manually overclock all the time is great in it self, also locked to 400 dpi is to low now.

I dont know.. if it is to much like other sensors out there today maybe it is not for me.

raw feel?

lyrill wrote: ↑

19 Mar 2021, 14:02

mossfalt wrote: ↑

19 Mar 2021, 12:09

I have the old microsoft intellimouse explorer 3.0 and run it with 8000 hz I still like that raw feel of it.

anyone here who has the ime 3.0 mouse and can recommend this new mouse from razer?.

I like what howeic said earlyer in this thread about the Focus+ sensor compared to 3360 and 3389 sensors.
Just having not to manually overclock all the time is great in it self, also locked to 400 dpi is to low now.

I dont know.. if it is to much like other sensors out there today maybe it is not for me.

raw feel?

yes don't tell me you have not heard of that.

ah well I got it and yes its good but it does not work on my pci-e usb 3.0 card with via chipset (8000hz) some how ??

This is what I'm seeing with my Viper 8KHz @ 20,000DPI (was told max DPI gives lowest input latency XD) (Image attached)

Something pretty wonky going on no?

askdrax wrote: ↑

19 Mar 2021, 17:35

This is what I'm seeing with my Viper 8KHz @ 20,000DPI (was told max DPI gives lowest input latency XD) (Image attached)
Something pretty wonky going on no?

Resource competition patterning / external AC interference patterning (if it's cyclic at 60/120Hz in North America or 50Hz/100Hz in Europe).

You have two cyclic frequencies involved -- one looks like a fine frequency (~10-20ms cyclic pattern?) and the other looks like a coarse frequency (~250ms cyclic pattern?) which is weird.

Inteference/EMI: Like a bad computer power supply, bad mains, or mouse cables going too close to power wires and power bricks. Try reorganizing the wire mess behind your computer so that your data wires are far away from power wires/power bricks/power supplies/devices/gadgets (including monitors and routers). Inverse square law is your best friend -- even 6 to 12 inches apart helps a lot in wire management. And I've seen malfunctioning CPU fans/watercooler pumps create interference patterning sometimes too.
Resource competition/PC behaviours: Like traffic sharing with other USB devices, processing time, driver, etc. Try optimizing it out.

It could be either or both.

And if it's just resource behaviours:
At the coarse scale, it can be disk traffic or network traffic.
At the finer scale, it can be internal heavy resource sharing.

Have you tried USB port lottery (tested each port), or a dedicated PCIe USB card, to bypass overloaded motherboard USB hubs (the rear plate full of USB ports)? A good PCIe USB card gives you a dedicated USB chip just for one mouse, and a more dedicated (or less heavily shared) PCIe lane to the CPU or chipset. Not always, but your odds at the USB lottery becomes better.

Some onboard USB are just not that good especially if WiFi/Bluetooth/USB/Ethernet/Audio/etc are sharing the same chipset and contending internally out of the wazoo (some devices are mapped as additional internal USB devices attached to the same "internal hub" that your 8KHz mouse is plugged into. And even if not, you might have a heavy amount of PCIe lane sharing with a resource-heavy device like a gigabit Internet connection)

If quick adjustments don't work (like making sure your USB wires are far away from power wires/power bricks) -- a Windows reinstall (or a temporary clean install on a separate partition) can help you diagnose if this is more resource competition related. Unplug all USB devices, all power bricks, all gadgets, even LED lamps, unplug all your RGBs, get them away from your computer temporarily -- And with just your PC, mouse, keyboard, offline, move away all extra gadgets/move away all spare power cables/move away all spare extra power bars/etc (except monitor, keyboard and mouse) and with a fresh windows install, work your devices back to your computer and reinstall more and more drivers/etc until you start seeing patterning (from software or from interference).

It's a PITA to troubleshoot this stuff.