Blur Busters Forums

ziadbrahmi wrote: ↑

17 Aug 2024, 00:59

hey guys im new to this forum , im gonna try to be quick in explaining how i got my such famous electricity input lag , it started in 2019 when i bought a new ps4 cause my old one got broken , the problem started there so i thought that the problem was from this ps4
2 years after i bought a gaming laptop and the isshe was still there but i just had no idea that it can be caused by electricity until this year , 1 month ago i purchased a new destkop and to be honest it is better but still not perfect , i cant strafe correctly or flick , also my car feels heavy in rocket league

so i asked my dad genuienly if he did change something in the electricity of our house in 2019 and he told me that back then there was a problem where when he plugged a toaster and a grill at the same time the power of the house would shut down so he called an electrician and this one just changed the main circuit breaker from 15 amps to 30 amps ( it is possible and legal in morocco ) so i thought that it may be the cause or the starting point of my problem
also my house is supposedly grounded but when i touch my psu or my motherboard bare feet i get badly shocked like i cant touch them at all or else i feel like im gonna die hahaha
so i would be glad to know that maybe my house grounding is bad and it was unnoticeable because my house’s amps were low ( 15 ) and when my dad increased it to 30 problems of bad grounding started showing more because there was more excess current that doesn’t go well to the ground .
i really hope that someone can answer me on that so i can try to lower it again to 15 amps and see if my problem get resolved !

Thatweirdinputlag wrote: ↑

17 Aug 2024, 06:37

ziadbrahmi wrote: ↑

17 Aug 2024, 00:59

hey guys im new to this forum , im gonna try to be quick in explaining how i got my such famous electricity input lag , it started in 2019 when i bought a new ps4 cause my old one got broken , the problem started there so i thought that the problem was from this ps4
2 years after i bought a gaming laptop and the isshe was still there but i just had no idea that it can be caused by electricity until this year , 1 month ago i purchased a new destkop and to be honest it is better but still not perfect , i cant strafe correctly or flick , also my car feels heavy in rocket league

so i asked my dad genuienly if he did change something in the electricity of our house in 2019 and he told me that back then there was a problem where when he plugged a toaster and a grill at the same time the power of the house would shut down so he called an electrician and this one just changed the main circuit breaker from 15 amps to 30 amps ( it is possible and legal in morocco ) so i thought that it may be the cause or the starting point of my problem
also my house is supposedly grounded but when i touch my psu or my motherboard bare feet i get badly shocked like i cant touch them at all or else i feel like im gonna die hahaha
so i would be glad to know that maybe my house grounding is bad and it was unnoticeable because my house’s amps were low ( 15 ) and when my dad increased it to 30 problems of bad grounding started showing more because there was more excess current that doesn’t go well to the ground .
i really hope that someone can answer me on that so i can try to lower it again to 15 amps and see if my problem get resolved !

Even if your ground resistance is 1 Mega ohm which is extremely high and mostly used in anti-static equipment, it will be still enough to desiccate any charge that is formed by your PC or monitor in a fraction of a second. You either have no ground reaching the socket "feeding the PC" or your ground is cut-off or not connected.

ziadbrahmi wrote: ↑

17 Aug 2024, 10:34

Thatweirdinputlag wrote: ↑

17 Aug 2024, 06:37

ziadbrahmi wrote: ↑

17 Aug 2024, 00:59

hey guys im new to this forum , im gonna try to be quick in explaining how i got my such famous electricity input lag , it started in 2019 when i bought a new ps4 cause my old one got broken , the problem started there so i thought that the problem was from this ps4
2 years after i bought a gaming laptop and the isshe was still there but i just had no idea that it can be caused by electricity until this year , 1 month ago i purchased a new destkop and to be honest it is better but still not perfect , i cant strafe correctly or flick , also my car feels heavy in rocket league

so i asked my dad genuienly if he did change something in the electricity of our house in 2019 and he told me that back then there was a problem where when he plugged a toaster and a grill at the same time the power of the house would shut down so he called an electrician and this one just changed the main circuit breaker from 15 amps to 30 amps ( it is possible and legal in morocco ) so i thought that it may be the cause or the starting point of my problem
also my house is supposedly grounded but when i touch my psu or my motherboard bare feet i get badly shocked like i cant touch them at all or else i feel like im gonna die hahaha
so i would be glad to know that maybe my house grounding is bad and it was unnoticeable because my house’s amps were low ( 15 ) and when my dad increased it to 30 problems of bad grounding started showing more because there was more excess current that doesn’t go well to the ground .
i really hope that someone can answer me on that so i can try to lower it again to 15 amps and see if my problem get resolved !

Even if your ground resistance is 1 Mega ohm which is extremely high and mostly used in anti-static equipment, it will be still enough to desiccate any charge that is formed by your PC or monitor in a fraction of a second. You either have no ground reaching the socket "feeding the PC" or your ground is cut-off or not connected.

yes but what about the going from 15 amps to 30 amps change ? could it be correlated ? also i didnt mention that when i dont touch the mous or keyboard between rounds for example , when i touch them again to play the next round the problem is fixed for like 10 seconds then it comes back

ChristophSmaul1337 wrote: ↑

18 Aug 2024, 08:20

It should not make a difference. Note that I say "should", as you might never know.

See, the way curcuit breakers work (as far as I'm aware of) is that there is only one wire going in and out of them, the "live" wire with 240V (in my case) on it. The neutral and ground aren't involved with the breaker in any way, they terminate directly in the electrical panel without seeing the breaker or "knowing" it's there. I don't quite know how it's done in your country, but here's how it's done for me:


As you can see, the circuit breaker only sees one wire. Neutral (N) and Protective Earth (PE) aren't even aware that a circuit breaker is there. I am highly sceptical about the fact that a simple circuit breaker change can have any impact on the feeling of your computer. While I do believe that electrical "stuff" can impact the experience, a circuit breaker in an operational state is basically a dead short across the terminals. When the breaker is on, it simply passes the current through itself without interacting with it in any way. Basic breakers work with electromagnetism: Current flowing through the breaker magnetizes an electromagnet. With increased current, the magnetic field becomes stronger and when a critical point (the breaker's rating) is exceeded, the magnetic field is strong enough to cause an internal connection to be broken, turning the breaker off. There isn't any point in there that would send the current through some sort of "black box" where "stuff" can happen. If there is "dirty" electricity, aka harmonics present on the power grid, then it'll get passed through by the 15A as well as the 30A breaker. I doubt that this change actually is responsible for your experience, it's likely just a coincidence.

The "shocks" you're getting imply that the grounding isn't good. There might be a few things responsible for this. One could be simply a missing PE wire, or the PE wire is broken somewhere along the way. An easy way to check for this is getting an extension cord and trying your PC on all your other outlets. It can either work fine and won't shock you on another circuit, in that case you know that the outlet or the wires leading to that outlet are broken and need replaced. A broken PE is dangerous and should be replaced.

Another cause might be that your electrical installation is designed with a flawed and outdated concept in mind. In Germany it's called "klassische Nullung", which translates to something like "classic nulling". If the electrical installation is done correctly and up to par, it's done like on the image above, where the PE and N wires are separated before the RCD. What might have happened in your case is that this old style of "classic nulling" was used, where the neutral and PE are bonded inside the socket. Here's how that would look like:



Note how there's no RCD here, as this wouldn't work and constantly trip the RCD for reasons that are out of the scope of this comment.

You can check for correct grounding with a relatively cheap socket tester. They're readily available at any hardware store. A quick check if classic nulling might be present is to look inside your breaker box and see if a RCD is present. If it is, then there's a good chance your house does not have this outdated style.

Also, power isn't pushed through a circuit, it's pulled. Just because there is a 30A breaker instead of a 15A breaker it doesn't mean that double the current is flowing through the circuit. There is only so much current on the circuit as is being demanded by the load. Say the circuit connected to that 15A breaker consists of a toaster which is rated at 1200W, a coffee maker which is rated at 1500W and a microwave, rated at 1000W. With a breaker of 15A at 240V, you'll have 3600W at your disposal for that particular circuit. Let's say you're only making a toast with the toaster. In that case, 1200W (5A) are being pulled by the toaster, which means that 5A worth of current are flowing through the circuit. The breaker won't trip as the current pulled is below its threshold. Now, let's say you switched the breaker for a 30A one. This doesn't change anything at all, because just by changing the 15A breaker to a 30A one it doesn't mean that there is now double the current flowing through that circuit. The toaster won't suddenly pull 10A or anything like that, it will still operate at 5A at 240V.

Now, let's say you're toasting some bread, while making coffee and also microwaving something. That would mean that you're now pulling 3700W (15,42A) through that circuit. This is now where the breaker actually makes a difference. The 15A breaker would trip here, as its maximum allowed current of 15A is exceeded. The 30A breaker would still allow you to do this, as it's maximum capacity isn't exceeded yet. With a 30A breaker, you have a 7200W of power available. That's a lot of power and I doubt any circuit with any kind of daily-use machine will ever be able to exceed that. (Note: This is massively simplified, as breakers don't immediately trip when the rating is exceeded, they have a time-current-dependant trip curve. The explanation is intentionally simplified.)

Please be careful with changing breakers. Inform yourself or tell your father before you continue to operate devices above 15A. There's a reason a circuit breaker is the size that it is. Make sure the wires in your walls can handle more current than 15A safely. Changing a 15A to a 30A breaker - even though legal - can become a fire hazard quickly. Your house should have documentation about which wire gauge has been installed. Look up a table of wire gauges and how much current they can safely carry.

Stay safe and good luck finding a solution. Cheers

MegaMelmek wrote: ↑

18 Aug 2024, 12:51

If you are from Germany then these schematic are strange to me...
Normal is main switch (braker) before powe meter and i think this guy mean that. It will be nice to know if it was 3 phase or only 1 phase...
And if it is only 1 phase which one.... Like L2 or L3 maybe L1 who know

ChristophSmaul1337 wrote: ↑

18 Aug 2024, 08:20

It should not make a difference. Note that I say "should", as you might never know.

See, the way curcuit breakers work (as far as I'm aware of) is that there is only one wire going in and out of them, the "live" wire with 240V (in my case) on it. The neutral and ground aren't involved with the breaker in any way, they terminate directly in the electrical panel without seeing the breaker or "knowing" it's there. I don't quite know how it's done in your country, but here's how it's done for me:


As you can see, the circuit breaker only sees one wire. Neutral (N) and Protective Earth (PE) aren't even aware that a circuit breaker is there. I am highly sceptical about the fact that a simple circuit breaker change can have any impact on the feeling of your computer. While I do believe that electrical "stuff" can impact the experience, a circuit breaker in an operational state is basically a dead short across the terminals. When the breaker is on, it simply passes the current through itself without interacting with it in any way. Basic breakers work with electromagnetism: Current flowing through the breaker magnetizes an electromagnet. With increased current, the magnetic field becomes stronger and when a critical point (the breaker's rating) is exceeded, the magnetic field is strong enough to cause an internal connection to be broken, turning the breaker off. There isn't any point in there that would send the current through some sort of "black box" where "stuff" can happen. If there is "dirty" electricity, aka harmonics present on the power grid, then it'll get passed through by the 15A as well as the 30A breaker. I doubt that this change actually is responsible for your experience, it's likely just a coincidence.

The "shocks" you're getting imply that the grounding isn't good. There might be a few things responsible for this. One could be simply a missing PE wire, or the PE wire is broken somewhere along the way. An easy way to check for this is getting an extension cord and trying your PC on all your other outlets. It can either work fine and won't shock you on another circuit, in that case you know that the outlet or the wires leading to that outlet are broken and need replaced. A broken PE is dangerous and should be replaced.

Another cause might be that your electrical installation is designed with a flawed and outdated concept in mind. In Germany it's called "klassische Nullung", which translates to something like "classic nulling". If the electrical installation is done correctly and up to par, it's done like on the image above, where the PE and N wires are separated before the RCD. What might have happened in your case is that this old style of "classic nulling" was used, where the neutral and PE are bonded inside the socket. Here's how that would look like:
]

Note how there's no RCD here, as this wouldn't work and constantly trip the RCD for reasons that are out of the scope of this comment.

You can check for correct grounding with a relatively cheap socket tester. They're readily available at any hardware store. A quick check if classic nulling might be present is to look inside your breaker box and see if a RCD is present. If it is, then there's a good chance your house does not have this outdated style.

Also, power isn't pushed through a circuit, it's pulled. Just because there is a 30A breaker instead of a 15A breaker it doesn't mean that double the current is flowing through the circuit. There is only so much current on the circuit as is being demanded by the load. Say the circuit connected to that 15A breaker consists of a toaster which is rated at 1200W, a coffee maker which is rated at 1500W and a microwave, rated at 1000W. With a breaker of 15A at 240V, you'll have 3600W at your disposal for that particular circuit. Let's say you're only making a toast with the toaster. In that case, 1200W (5A) are being pulled by the toaster, which means that 5A worth of current are flowing through the circuit. The breaker won't trip as the current pulled is below its threshold. Now, let's say you switched the breaker for a 30A one. This doesn't change anything at all, because just by changing the 15A breaker to a 30A one it doesn't mean that there is now double the current flowing through that circuit. The toaster won't suddenly pull 10A or anything like that, it will still operate at 5A at 240V.

Now, let's say you're toasting some bread, while making coffee and also microwaving something. That would mean that you're now pulling 3700W (15,42A) through that circuit. This is now where the breaker actually makes a difference. The 15A breaker would trip here, as its maximum allowed current of 15A is exceeded. The 30A breaker would still allow you to do this, as it's maximum capacity isn't exceeded yet. With a 30A breaker, you have a 7200W of power available. That's a lot of power and I doubt any circuit with any kind of daily-use machine will ever be able to exceed that. (Note: This is massively simplified, as breakers don't immediately trip when the rating is exceeded, they have a time-current-dependant trip curve. The explanation is intentionally simplified.)

Please be careful with changing breakers. Inform yourself or tell your father before you continue to operate devices above 15A. There's a reason a circuit breaker is the size that it is. Make sure the wires in your walls can handle more current than 15A safely. Changing a 15A to a 30A breaker - even though legal - can become a fire hazard quickly. Your house should have documentation about which wire gauge has been installed. Look up a table of wire gauges and how much current they can safely carry.

Stay safe and good luck finding a solution. Cheers

ziadbrahmi wrote: ↑

19 Aug 2024, 18:22

hey bro so i just wanted to say that you misunderstood me , my dad did not change the breaker , he just like opened it and upped its value , in this breaker the max value is actually 30 A , in 2019 it was 15 A and everythin was fine , but there was so short that happenned from time to time so he opened the breaker and upped its value with a screw to 30 A , without changing anything , no wire or breaker was changed just the breaker value , it is possible in morocco , also in this breaker something is correlatzd to the ground since there is a T jutton who relates to " Terre " , ground in french , and when you activate that button the power in the house shuts down to test the grounding ig , i can send you a pic of this kind of breaker , you can type in google " disjoncteur differentiel 30 A ingelec " and you’ll see it . so idk if this can be related to ly problem and thank you for ur answer

widow13 wrote: ↑

19 Aug 2024, 19:02

ziadbrahmi wrote: ↑

19 Aug 2024, 18:22

hey bro so i just wanted to say that you misunderstood me , my dad did not change the breaker , he just like opened it and upped its value , in this breaker the max value is actually 30 A , in 2019 it was 15 A and everythin was fine , but there was so short that happenned from time to time so he opened the breaker and upped its value with a screw to 30 A , without changing anything , no wire or breaker was changed just the breaker value , it is possible in morocco , also in this breaker something is correlatzd to the ground since there is a T jutton who relates to " Terre " , ground in french , and when you activate that button the power in the house shuts down to test the grounding ig , i can send you a pic of this kind of breaker , you can type in google " disjoncteur differentiel 30 A ingelec " and you’ll see it . so idk if this can be related to ly problem and thank you for ur answer

You could change it back and see if it works?
Unless he doesn't wants to do it.