Benq XL2430T Settings

[Falkentyne]

Drake:
This may be a problem with the "new" black equalizer.
Make sure you set it to 0.

Otherwise set digital vibrance up OR down 1 value from the default. I do NOT remember WHICH one is correct, but the standard value is incorrectly calibrated.

Vertical total tweaks basically "increase" the scaler's area for the vertical screen size, making it think it's working with a longer vertical height than the default (1125 lines / 1080 pixels). This in effect extends the vertical blanking period which allows the existing panel size to complete the overdrive gtg pixel transitions within the blanking period, and thus this reduces the amount of "Strobe Crosstalk" (very thick and very nasty double image band) you get when the iamge is basically being strobed and the frame is between two different frames. (This is a very bad explanation, but you can see the effect of this by changing the OSD "AREA" setting in blur reduction area (= strobe phase in the service menu).

Changing Vertical Total from 1125 to 1500 lowers the crosstalk by about 28% (best way to visualize this is to pretend you have a panel with a vertical pixel size of 1440p instead of 1080p. The crosstalk is....."offscreen" mostly In the "invisible" pixels.

You can see what the scaler thinks the panel size is (at least on V4 firmware on the Z monitors) by entering the "burn-in" factory menu.--the scaler will report a 1440p panel size instead of 1080p if VT 1500 tweak is used.

http://www.testufo.com/#test=photo&phot ... &height=-1

[drakefive55]

I followed these settings and saved them to profile 1

VT Tweak: 1500
Refresh Rate: 120Hz
BenQ Service Menu: Single Strobe ON
ICC Profile: http://www.displaylag.com/icc-profiles/ ... 0Final.icm

Gamer Profile 1 (Regular Usage):

1920x1080
Blur Reduction: ON
Intensity: 16
Area: 40
Black eQualizer: 0
Color Vibrance: 9
Low Blue Light: 0
Instant Mode: ON
Auto Game Mode: OFF
Picture Mode: Standard
Brightness: 90
Contrast: 50
Sharpness: 6
Gamma: Gamma 5
Color Temperature: User Define (R:98, G:100, B:99)
AMA: High
Dynamic Contrast: 0
Senseye Demo: OFF
Display Mode: Full
HDMI RGB PC Range: RGB (0~255)
Overscan: OFF

When I go to http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/white.php#whitetest.png I only see the first box - If I change picture mode from profile 1 to standard I see more boxes but the screen goes duller - Can some one explain what's happening because the settings are exactly the same

[drakefive55]

I can confirm, whenever i'm on Standard mode i can see all the faded grey patterns, while i'm on either game 1, 2 or 3, they completly dissapear besides the first one.

Did you figure what was causing this

[Falkentyne]

I can confirm, whenever i'm on Standard mode i can see all the faded grey patterns, while i'm on either game 1, 2 or 3, they completly dissapear besides the first one.

Did you figure what was causing this

I don't understand this.

What happens if you go to STANDARD Mode, set all your settings that show all of the boxes, and then save the STANDARD MODE to "gamer 1"?
Then you recall/activate "gamer 1"?

.........

On my XL2720Z, whatever "preset" (e.g. standard mode, movie, FPS, etc) that I save into a gamer preset has the exact same calibrations and options as the original preset (e.g. standard mode ->game 1 ->recall game 1->uses standard mode calibrations, but the settings you saved are recalled).

The ORIGINAL Gamer 1, 2 and 3 settings are defaulted to "FPS1, FPS2 and RTS" settings. But copying a different preset (e.g. Standard mode) and saving it as gamer 1 and recalling it, is simply "standard mode" calibrations with the customs you saved into gamer 1 (the FPS original calibration gets removed).

There was a bug in V2 firmware where certain settings available in a default preset were not selectable after saving them into a gamer preset (e.g. low blue light); this was fixed in V3 and V4.

[drakefive55]

I can confirm, whenever i'm on Standard mode i can see all the faded grey patterns, while i'm on either game 1, 2 or 3, they completly dissapear besides the first one.

Did you figure what was causing this

I don't understand this.

What happens if you go to STANDARD Mode, set all your settings that show all of the boxes, and then save the STANDARD MODE to "gamer 1"?
Then you recall/activate "gamer 1"?

.........

On my XL2720Z, whatever "preset" (e.g. standard mode, movie, FPS, etc) that I save into a gamer preset has the exact same calibrations and options as the original preset (e.g. standard mode ->game 1 ->recall game 1->uses standard mode calibrations, but the settings you saved are recalled).

The ORIGINAL Gamer 1, 2 and 3 settings are defaulted to "FPS1, FPS2 and RTS" settings. But copying a different preset (e.g. Standard mode) and saving it as gamer 1 and recalling it, is simply "standard mode" calibrations with the customs you saved into gamer 1 (the FPS original calibration gets removed).

There was a bug in V2 firmware where certain settings available in a default preset were not selectable after saving them into a gamer preset (e.g. low blue light); this was fixed in V3 and V4.

Ok let me try and explain

I want to set up separate profiles like CybeRFernandes has. He has 1 profile for normal use and and 1 for CS GO. When I set these profiles up and swap between the two I seem to lose a lot of settings and I know something is changing because if I set up profile 1 and go to http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/white.php#whitetest.png I can see the gradients. If I switch to profile 2 and back to profile 1 I can only see 1 gradiant so something is changing but I don't know what - Am I saving the profiles correctly, I get the settings to what I want and then go to game settings > save settings

Could it be that the monitor I have is faulty

Their are some other people earlier in the thread saying the same thing about the profiles

[Falkentyne]

Well you still did not give me enough information yet. I asked this last post but you still left things out.

1) Does the profile 1 (gamer 1) work if you power off the monitor and then power it back on, WITHOUT switching to gamer 2? But if switching to gamer 2 then back to gamer 1 makes you lose the boxes, then you power off the monitor and power it BACK on and then see the boxes again? IF YES, then there's a bug with switching profiles (gamer presets)

2) does going into STANDARD mode, making changes in STANDARD Mode (so you can see all the boxes), saving those settings to gamer profile #1, then ACTIVATING or REACTIVATING (Just press the S switch) Gamer PROFILE #1 WITHOUT touching profile 2 or 3 at all, make you KEEP all the visable boxes or LOSE THEM?

You need to answer both of these questions.

[drakefive55]

Well you still did not give me enough information yet. I asked this last post but you still left things out.

1) Does the profile 1 (gamer 1) work if you power off the monitor and then power it back on, WITHOUT switching to gamer 2? But if switching to gamer 2 then back to gamer 1 makes you lose the boxes, then you power off the monitor and power it BACK on and then see the boxes again? IF YES, then there's a bug with switching profiles (gamer presets)

2) does going into STANDARD mode, making changes in STANDARD Mode (so you can see all the boxes), saving those settings to gamer profile #1, then ACTIVATING or REACTIVATING (Just press the S switch) Gamer PROFILE #1 WITHOUT touching profile 2 or 3 at all, make you KEEP all the visable boxes or LOSE THEM?

You need to answer both of these questions.

No to the first questions

The other question - lose them

[Falkentyne]

Profile bug then.
Sounds like what its doing is you save the presets in standard mode, then save them to a gamer profile, but when you activate the profile, it activates the original mode that the gamer profile was calibrated to by default (which is FPS1). This bug doesn't happen on the Z series (XL2411Z, XL2420Z, XL2720Z). Whatever profile is saved, the color calibrations are recalled for the original preset that was used (like standard mode, movie mode, etc).

That's a pretty big bug Looks like they did some things very wrong bad black equalizer 2.0, profile bugs...

[drakefive55]

I'm going to get the xl2411z instead

Do you know if you can do the vt tweak 1500 on that

[Falkentyne]

Why the XL2411Z?
the XL2420Z has displayport connection and the S-switch which the XL2411Z does not have either DP or the s-switch. At this point I think it's NOT worth getting the XL2411Z over the XL2420Z. Just make sure it has firmware V4.

Also if you can find an XL2720Z (with V4), you get access to a AMA low mode (only for benq blur reduction) that is equal to Lightboost mode (on the same monitor) in AMA level. I don't know if you care or notice AMA overdrive artifacts, but it makes the screen look MUCH better if you use this AMA mode. You can combine this with setting the contrast from 0-10 (depending on the gamma setting) to get a MUCH better picture for overdrive artifacts--if you can handle the low contrast.

This AMA low mode is undocumented. You can tell it is some sort of hidden toggle because if you enable blur reduction and then go to AMA, highlight it on "High" and then press "Back" (button #4 on xl2420z/xl2720z), or alternatively, move to off/premium and then back to high, the overdrive intensity drops by a LOT on XL2720Z. This will make the blur reduction mode on the XL2720Z look much better than on the 24" versions and will make it look like its own equivalent Lightboost mode, but with much better colors (both Lightboost on XL2720Z and AMA Low toggle require you lowering the contrast to less than 20 to get the best effect.

The lightboost mode on the 24" monitors (XL2430T does not have lightboost) looks far better than lightboost on the 27" monitors. LIghtboost mode on XL2420Z has virtually low to no RTA artifacts if you lower the contrast. But the 24" monitors do not have the BBR AMA low toggle (the same toggle exists but only lowers the overdrive intensity by about 5% instead of 50% on XL2720Z).

Note that these toggles do nothing if blur reduction is off btw. Would have been nice to have it for people who don't like strobing.
I did ask Benq why they didn't mention the new AMA mode on the XL2720Z V4 firmware or advertise the firmware on their site. They said that it "raises the input lag". A lagom response time test comparing "AMA high" and "AMA Low toggle on XL2720Z shows it does raise the response time (winds up between the default AMA high and AMA off) but a human can't detect this change in normal use.

The 5% toggles on XL2411Z/XL2420Z don't show any difference (although you can detect a faint change in testufo alien invasion).