Blur Busters Forums

Sadly I do not have any real experience with Panasonic plasmas.
I have seen a video where a guy lag tested several models, and sadly some of the newer better ones had more lag, to a near game-breaking level.
The Kuro has noticeable lag but not the worse, and consistent between picture modes, resolutions and even digital vs analog outputs.

If someone out there confirmed that there is a high-end, 3D compatible plasma that has acceptable input lag, I would be really tempted to hunt one down, but I think the top dog ZT60 is laggy.

I hear ya on dunking down on "regular" LCDs.
Sample and hold is terrible because even at very high refresh you need an unrealistic amount of fps for it to make a difference.
And whenever we get 960hz panels and perfect frame generation/CRT simulation, then OLED is better in nearly every way.
Also, blacks were indeed terrible before full-array local dimming. And zone count and dimming algorithms were not always that great.

It is a fact however that, thanks to Mini-LED, great strides have been achieved which justify a reappraisal of LCD tech.
But IMO, only if the backlight strobing mode helps it approach CRT at 60hz and more.
And again the one definite advantage LCD has over the best OLED, full screen brightness on a 100% white window, helps a lot making the BFI image look good.
What Samsung is bringing to the table goes beyond a simple "bang for bucks" re-evaluation.

The problem being that OLEDs will likely always have a huge difference between their peak (small window) brightness and their fullscreen brightness (which, sustained, probably has undefeatable auto-dimming).
Let's imaging LG or Samsung magically brought back rolling-scan BFI on their current high end models, that maybe have 400nits on a 100% white screen.
Now let's say they have there BFI high on a 10% window to compete with CRT (resulting in 1.66ms MPRT/600hz equivalent at 60hz). You would only have a 40nits white screen left.
It would look basically like on the CX/GX actually (with a ~140nits white screen max brightness and BFI High on a 25% window => ~35nits, 4.16ms MPRT/240hz equivalent).
At equal motion clarity, my QN90D will look much better in bright scenes than these hypothetical OLEDs. And I think it should matter as much as when we compare OLED favorably against LCD because of their black levels.

And regarding 43"/50" models, as I said earlier, I know they are dimmer. I don't know by how much, haven't seen objective tests, I heard the peak brightness was around ~1400nits whereas RTINGS clocked the 65" model at ~2000nits.
I would be tempted by the 43" model if I had a bigger desk space, even at lower brightness the pros would outweigh the cons when compared to even the best competitive gaming LCDs.
I don't know if the loss in fullscreen brightness is proportional to the one seen in peak brightness, and to be clear fullscreen brightness is most relevant to me when it comes to BFI performance: The lower the brightness, the closer you get to CRT, if your fullscreen image get too dim, you cannot practically improve motion clarity as on a bright model.
So, to secure your best chance of having the full performance seen on the RTINGS review, I would play it safe and get the 55" version rather than the 50".

As for flicker, it's subjective I guess. It is always more brutal on a big bright white screen, much less so in real content.
I'm not sure it bothers me more than on the LGs (though again, taking into account the massive leap in brightness), but both are worse than CRT and Plasma is the least bothersome (even forcing a 48hz mode on my Kuro makes little difference).
But I wanna reiterate that on Samsung LCDs specifically, you have low-lag interpolation (Game Motion Plus on, Mode 2, De-Blur 10) which turns your 60hz signal into 120hz, which you can subsequently improve by lowering brightness. And 120hz flicker is near imperceptible.
If you are flicker sensitive, I would dare say it is THE way to go for you.

Regarding lag, I'll quote the relevant figures from RTINGS, I don't have a time sleuth:
4k @ 60Hz 11.7 ms
4k @ 60Hz Outside Game Mode 78.6 ms
4k @ 60Hz With Interpolation 25.3 ms (To me, I interpret this as Game Mode, Mode 2, De-Blur Max - 120hz equivalent)
4k @ 120Hz 7.0 ms
4k @ Max Refresh Rate 6.2 ms (144hz in this case)

I'm surprised to hear Motion Pro more than doubles lag on the OLED though, are you 100% about this? In any case, once Game Mode is engaged we're always dealing with tolerable numbers in both cases.

Thanks for keeping us in the loop Jim, this new info is really encouraging! My CX has 15K hours on it, and randomly turns itself off every 30 minutes or so during non-video game content - so I'm very excited that there's possibly an even better display for my purposes!

Know you're very busy, but there are a few questions I'd be keen to know about for the QN90D if you have insight

1. Do you not find any concerning drop in brightness when using game mode? The RTings review specifically mentions a decent drop in real-scene HDR brightness when switching to game mode (even though the % window values are good). For example, they record that the QN90D is dimmer than the LG C1 for their landscape pool and hallway lights real-scene tests - which doesn't seem great!

2. Have you had a chance to test external BFI on the QN90D, e.g. via a PC or Retrotink? I know lots of LCD-panels simply freak out when they receive an external BFI signal (e.g. using the RT4Ks 60hz BFI through its 120Hz output res, or when enabling BFI through software on a PC) - would be keen to know if the QN90D can handle external BFI.

I ask because, this may become useful in conjunction with an RT4K, which is able to deliver 60hz BFI externally in a 120hz container. If the QN90D could handle it, it could be possible to send out 60fps retro content with 60hz BFI via the Retrotink 4k, as 120Hz, which the QN90D would then accept as 120hz, allowing for all of: 60fps gameplay, 60hz BFI/strobe (via a combination of QN90D 120Hz backlight strobing AND RT4K 60Hz BFI, which would effectively be a 60hz strobe if it stacked correctly, AND 4:4:4 chroma, WITHOUT needing interpolation (which goes against developer intent, IMHO)).

3. Do you know how the QN90D handles 50hz content? Without strobing enabled, does it accurately sample-and-hold at 50hz without interpolation? With strobing enabled, does it strobe at the correct 50hz frequency (this is easy to assess just by eyeballing - you can tell that the panel's flickering at 50hz rather than 60hz because the flicker becomes much much more unpleasant)

4. You mention that by enabling Game Mode 2, you can get the content treated as 120hz and then use the brightness trick to control the pulsewidth of the strobe. Does this mean that the 60hz content gets interpolated to 120fps too? Not much benefit to having 120hz strobing if the content isn't 120fps, if we're trying to get motion clarity without double images

A few comments (not questions)
- great news that you resolved the the black crush issue!
- very interesting that for 120hz, you can still use backlight strobing in PC mode - shame its not for 60hz, but that's better than nothing!
- I do wonder if there's any sneaky way to use the service menu to enable LED Clear Motion while in PC mode - but that could void warranty and not everyone wants to mess around with that stuff, especially after just buying a new TV!
- Re: flicker - I can understand why the flicker of QN90D may not be that much worse than that of the CX. The chief has talked about how a rolling scan has less flicker than a full screen strobe, pound for pound. However, judging by the RTings graphs, it seems that the QN9X QLEDS have a gentler slope for their flicker, compared to the very sharp steps off of the CX/C1's rolling scan brightness graphs. I imagine the gradient of the QLEDs' pulse curves would get even more gradual as brightness was lowered, reducing flicker further.

Thanks for all the research and for keeping us informed!

Thanks! Would be great to know how much input lag the QN90D has with BFI enabled. If it’s significantly less than the CX/GX then this would be another positive.

You talk a lot about brightness, but I think even 40 nits is acceptable in a complete dark room, although the brighter the better of course. But speaking of it, how much brightness does the QN90D has while having the same 4ms MPRT as the CX/GX? And how bright at ~1ms MPRT? Because when I really get the QN90D, which I likely won’t, I may just run it at the lowest MRPT possible.

I’m still not really convinced if it’s a better fit for me, as it may undoubtedly be better at MRPT, it also has a slower pixel response time and/or crosstalk artifacts, which in the end doesn’t necessarily has to be a better experience compared to 4ms MRPT OLED. But I would really love to give the TV a chance if I find one for very cheap. Sadly it’s pretty expensive, even used. For my two 65CX I paid 350€ and 180€ respectively, although with a bunch of dead pixels on the edge of the panel, which seems to be normal.

Speaking of it, does the GX also has the same problem? If not then this would be quite nice to preserve the good 60Hz BFI implementation. Sadly no 48” GX for 55” is fine as well.

roginthemachine wrote: ↑

22 Jul 2025, 11:26

Thanks for keeping us in the loop Jim, this new info is really encouraging! My CX has 15K hours on it, and randomly turns itself off every 30 minutes or so during non-video game content - so I'm very excited that there's possibly an even better display for my purposes!

Know you're very busy, but there are a few questions I'd be keen to know about for the QN90D if you have insight

1. Do you not find any concerning drop in brightness when using game mode? The RTings review specifically mentions a decent drop in real-scene HDR brightness when switching to game mode (even though the % window values are good). For example, they record that the QN90D is dimmer than the LG C1 for their landscape pool and hallway lights real-scene tests - which doesn't seem great!

2. Have you had a chance to test external BFI on the QN90D, e.g. via a PC or Retrotink? I know lots of LCD-panels simply freak out when they receive an external BFI signal (e.g. using the RT4Ks 60hz BFI through its 120Hz output res, or when enabling BFI through software on a PC) - would be keen to know if the QN90D can handle external BFI.

I ask because, this may become useful in conjunction with an RT4K, which is able to deliver 60hz BFI externally in a 120hz container. If the QN90D could handle it, it could be possible to send out 60fps retro content with 60hz BFI via the Retrotink 4k, as 120Hz, which the QN90D would then accept as 120hz, allowing for all of: 60fps gameplay, 60hz BFI/strobe (via a combination of QN90D 120Hz backlight strobing AND RT4K 60Hz BFI, which would effectively be a 60hz strobe if it stacked correctly, AND 4:4:4 chroma, WITHOUT needing interpolation (which goes against developer intent, IMHO)).

3. Do you know how the QN90D handles 50hz content? Without strobing enabled, does it accurately sample-and-hold at 50hz without interpolation? With strobing enabled, does it strobe at the correct 50hz frequency (this is easy to assess just by eyeballing - you can tell that the panel's flickering at 50hz rather than 60hz because the flicker becomes much much more unpleasant)

4. You mention that by enabling Game Mode 2, you can get the content treated as 120hz and then use the brightness trick to control the pulsewidth of the strobe. Does this mean that the 60hz content gets interpolated to 120fps too? Not much benefit to having 120hz strobing if the content isn't 120fps, if we're trying to get motion clarity without double images

A few comments (not questions)
- great news that you resolved the the black crush issue!
- very interesting that for 120hz, you can still use backlight strobing in PC mode - shame its not for 60hz, but that's better than nothing!
- I do wonder if there's any sneaky way to use the service menu to enable LED Clear Motion while in PC mode - but that could void warranty and not everyone wants to mess around with that stuff, especially after just buying a new TV!
- Re: flicker - I can understand why the flicker of QN90D may not be that much worse than that of the CX. The chief has talked about how a rolling scan has less flicker than a full screen strobe, pound for pound. However, judging by the RTings graphs, it seems that the QN9X QLEDS have a gentler slope for their flicker, compared to the very sharp steps off of the CX/C1's rolling scan brightness graphs. I imagine the gradient of the QLEDs' pulse curves would get even more gradual as brightness was lowered, reducing flicker further.

Thanks for all the research and for keeping us informed!

OK here goes:

1)I haven't done Game Mode HDR Tests. I've seen the figures on RTINGS review though, but since I couldn't confirm the other contenders (QN95D and QN900D) could do 120hz BFI, and I don't like the matte coating on the 2025 models, I decided to go ahead anyway, hoping that any issue could be resolved in the service menu.
Ariel from the Youtube channel "Plasma TV For Gaming" has published videos on how to unlock more brightness from his Samsung QD-OLED, stating that it was probably possible to do the same for LCD TVs.
But I'm not nearly as experienced as he is when it comes to dealing with HDR, this is a perfect example of something that will require a drastic increase in free time on my part to get around.
I have the ColorControl app but for whatever reason I am not (yet) able to access the service menu on the QN90D (G1 was detected automatically, GX had to be added manually but is fully controllable).

2)I don't have any device that make its own BFI.
Even Desktop BFI I cannot seem to get to work, perhaps due to the many screen connected to the same PC, some at different refresh rates and resolution? Dunno.
However, In 60hz Game Mode - Mode 1 - LED Motion, I don't believe any interpolation is actually taking place.
60hz Game Mode - Mode 2 + LED Motion + De-Judder is possible, improving motion/double image artifacts on 24-30fps content
And Finally, 60hz Game Mode - Mode 2 + No LED Motion + De-Blur is also possible, in which case you are interpolating the 60hz signal up to 120hz at a low lag penalty (And Brightness controls pulse width as in native 120hz mode).
As For PC Mode, yes, while I think it is no big loss (no penalty at all for video, barely visible loss for games and graphics) as soon as I get a reliable software BFI solution I'll happily do testing, though I'm a bit concerned about brightness.
And of course Lossless Scaling Frame Generation is an option as well.

On an semi-related note, I remember the chief saying something about how whole screen backlight strobing on 120hz BFI LCDs was better/easier to force the use of 3D glasses because they sync better on a fully blank frame.
And the only OLED TVs with 120 BFI use rolling-scan ergo no blank frame to reset from.
Sorry if I'm over simplifying or misinterpreting things, but this makes me wonder of perhaps software BFI could potentially sync better with LCD than with rolling-scan OLED as well.

3)I can tell you that BFI works and makes an impact at 50hz and 100hz, however I've seen some artifacts. I don't believe I've seen judder so perhaps you get a minimal lag penalty due to interpolation.
So you will likely get better motion clarity than on the CX/GX, but in an imperfect manner...

4)Yes, exactly. De-blur cranked to 10 convers 50>60hz content to 120hz and De-Judder does the same for 23>30hz.
However, indeed I suppose that if you use De-Blur 10 on your 60hz signal and the content itself is low FPS, then you might see judder.
However, unlike the LGs on which you HAD to be at the appropriate refresh range for De-Judder or De-Blur to take effect, I believe the TV does detect if your content is at lower fps than your refresh rate.
Reviews state the it doesn't judder even when you watch movies in 60hz mode.
I'll try to test that theory when I have more time, I do believe De-Judder affects low-fps content even when contained in a 60hz signal, so there's hope yet.

I'm happy to answer to the best of my abilities, I hope I'm not making too many mistakes/reporting inaccuracies, but I'm glad I took the plunge at the very least.
I do hope that I'm drumming enough interest from people more technically inclined who would want to push these displays to their absolute limits though .

hammelgammler wrote: ↑

22 Jul 2025, 13:14

Thanks! Would be great to know how much input lag the QN90D has with BFI enabled. If it’s significantly less than the CX/GX then this would be another positive.

You talk a lot about brightness, but I think even 40 nits is acceptable in a complete dark room, although the brighter the better of course. But speaking of it, how much brightness does the QN90D has while having the same 4ms MPRT as the CX/GX? And how bright at ~1ms MPRT? Because when I really get the QN90D, which I likely won’t, I may just run it at the lowest MRPT possible.

I’m still not really convinced if it’s a better fit for me, as it may undoubtedly be better at MRPT, it also has a slower pixel response time and/or crosstalk artifacts, which in the end doesn’t necessarily has to be a better experience compared to 4ms MRPT OLED. But I would really love to give the TV a chance if I find one for very cheap. Sadly it’s pretty expensive, even used. For my two 65CX I paid 350€ and 180€ respectively, although with a bunch of dead pixels on the edge of the panel, which seems to be normal.

Speaking of it, does the GX also has the same problem? If not then this would be quite nice to preserve the good 60Hz BFI implementation. Sadly no 48” GX for 55” is fine as well.

Regarding input lag, only someone with the proper equipment could give you a definitive answer.
However if RTINGS said that Game Mode interpolation is ~25ms, then I would expect regular BFI to be equal or less.
Likewise, I don't know if they lag tested native 120hz at full brightness, but there is also no evidence that the Brightness/Pulse Width Trick would increase lag so...

Regarding the brightness/motion clarity comparison with the GX, I would say that, at 60hz BFI full brightness, it is already less blurry than the GX with BFI High (which is 240hz equivalent). Actually perhaps even higher than the GX/G1 at 120hz BFI High (~315hz equivalent).
As for the brightness, I would need better measurement tools than those you can find on a phone.
But it does, to me, SDR LED Motion at full brightness on a white screen, looks as bright/brighter as my older Panasonic LCD that reviewers claims reached ~500 nits in HDR Dynamic Mode.
Can't do side-by-side comparison for practical reason but this is the closest to an apples to apples test I can do.
After that, lowering the brightness only improves things further.
If the backlight strobing pulse rate is 960hz, then it would stand to reason that at minimum brightness, the motion clarity would be near 1ms MPRT.
Of course that is impractical even in a fully dark room, but considering that the picture is brighter than the GX at the brightness setting ballpark of 10-15, that is already adequate for SDR content.
I am nearly 100% positive that BFI max brightness is more than enough for the HDR400 pseudo-standard. So it's a great compromise regardless.

Now, granted, VA panels are not the most reactive and there is some sort of trailing/ghosting which OLED doesn't have.
I think this is very good by VA standard, viewing angles, ghosting, contrast levels are all pretty decent.
Reminds me of Sharp's UV²A panels, which at the time had the best quality compromises of all main LCD types.

However the small amount of ghosting doesn't affect motion clarity in real content.
You can see it on the TestUFO full screen strobe crosstalk test for sure, because the colors are chosen to bring out the weaknesses of LCD, but on the Game Picture test it's hard to see anything wrong with the picture.

My central point is that LCD (at least those on the same level as this Samsung) and OLED could co-exist in an eco-system, with strobing LCD being favored for fast moving and/or very bright content, and OLED for the most perfect picture possible.
Also while not being perfect at anything, I would also stand by my claim that these are currently the most versatile TVs, the closest approximation of a giant CRT, with the least amount of weaknesses: great brightness and/or motion clarity, and very decent contrast and colors (VS current OLED's perfect contrast, great brightness and colors, but shite motion options).

LG's 2020/2021 rolling scan BFI models are a very interesting middle ground, for SDR content at least.
I would buy a new OLED in a heartbeat if rolling scan BFI makes a comeback, but no longer at the exclusion of the kind of LCD we're talking about here.

My conclusion is, if the intent is emulating a CRT, then these specific LCDs come closer than Plasmas and rolling-scan OLEDs.

JimProfit wrote: ↑

22 Jul 2025, 14:10

OK here goes:

1)I haven't done Game Mode HDR Tests. I've seen the figures on RTINGS review though, but since I couldn't confirm the other contenders (QN95D and QN900D) could do 120hz BFI, and I don't like the matte coating on the 2025 models, I decided to go ahead anyway, hoping that any issue could be resolved in the service menu.
Ariel from the Youtube channel "Plasma TV For Gaming" has published videos on how to unlock more brightness from his Samsung QD-OLED, stating that it was probably possible to do the same for LCD TVs.
But I'm not nearly as experienced as he is when it comes to dealing with HDR, this is a perfect example of something that will require a drastic increase in free time on my part to get around.
I have the ColorControl app but for whatever reason I am not (yet) able to access the service menu on the QN90D (G1 was detected automatically, GX had to be added manually but is fully controllable).

2)I don't have any device that make its own BFI.
Even Desktop BFI I cannot seem to get to work, perhaps due to the many screen connected to the same PC, some at different refresh rates and resolution? Dunno.
However, In 60hz Game Mode - Mode 1 - LED Motion, I don't believe any interpolation is actually taking place.
60hz Game Mode - Mode 2 + LED Motion + De-Judder is possible, improving motion/double image artifacts on 24-30fps content
And Finally, 60hz Game Mode - Mode 2 + No LED Motion + De-Blur is also possible, in which case you are interpolating the 60hz signal up to 120hz at a low lag penalty (And Brightness controls pulse width as in native 120hz mode).
As For PC Mode, yes, while I think it is no big loss (no penalty at all for video, barely visible loss for games and graphics) as soon as I get a reliable software BFI solution I'll happily do testing, though I'm a bit concerned about brightness.
And of course Lossless Scaling Frame Generation is an option as well.

On an semi-related note, I remember the chief saying something about how whole screen backlight strobing on 120hz BFI LCDs was better/easier to force the use of 3D glasses because they sync better on a fully blank frame.
And the only OLED TVs with 120 BFI use rolling-scan ergo no blank frame to reset from.
Sorry if I'm over simplifying or misinterpreting things, but this makes me wonder of perhaps software BFI could potentially sync better with LCD than with rolling-scan OLED as well.

3)I can tell you that BFI works and makes an impact at 50hz and 100hz, however I've seen some artifacts. I don't believe I've seen judder so perhaps you get a minimal lag penalty due to interpolation.
So you will likely get better motion clarity than on the CX/GX, but in an imperfect manner...

4)Yes, exactly. De-blur cranked to 10 convers 50>60hz content to 120hz and De-Judder does the same for 23>30hz.
However, indeed I suppose that if you use De-Blur 10 on your 60hz signal and the content itself is low FPS, then you might see judder.
However, unlike the LGs on which you HAD to be at the appropriate refresh range for De-Judder or De-Blur to take effect, I believe the TV does detect if your content is at lower fps than your refresh rate.
Reviews state the it doesn't judder even when you watch movies in 60hz mode.
I'll try to test that theory when I have more time, I do believe De-Judder affects low-fps content even when contained in a 60hz signal, so there's hope yet.

I'm happy to answer to the best of my abilities, I hope I'm not making too many mistakes/reporting inaccuracies, but I'm glad I took the plunge at the very least.
I do hope that I'm drumming enough interest from people more technically inclined who would want to push these displays to their absolute limits though .

That’s super helpful!! Thank you, it definitely takes time to get to grips with a new unit/OS.

Re HDR brightness in game mode, I guess I’m more asking if when you eyeball it it’s looked bright enough? In previous posts you’ve mentioned that it’s bright enough with HDR highlights, with strobing on, for your tastes - so that I suppose implies you’ve been happy with the brightness in game mode at a first glance (ie without formal measurements)

And just clarifying specifically with the BFI at 50hz - when enabling LED clear motion over 50hz signal, do you recall the flicker being as gentle as 60hz flicker, or a noticeable degree harsher? That will be the giveaway as to whether the BFI is properly strobing at 50hz

Thanks!

hammelgammler wrote: ↑

22 Jul 2025, 01:04

Thanks! Do you happen to also have experience with a Panasonic VT50 or VT60? Those can be bought for pretty cheap in Germany, a Kuro on the other hand is a lot more expensive.

To be honest I truly hate LCDs with a passion, but maybe the QN90D might still be okayish if the clarity at 60Hz actually can approach a CRT. Does the 50” inch can also get as close or only the 55”?

In terms of least flicker it seems to be Plasma > FW900 > CX/GX > QN90D right? Could be hard to live with even more flickering than my CX, but tbh I didn’t use it long enough to get a feel if it’s actually bothering me.

What I’m most interested in would be the comparison in input lag. I guess the FW900 will be the best at any Hz. A CX/GX have around 26ms with 60Hz BFI, a Panasonic VT50/VT60 around 40ms from what I can read online, but what about the QN90D? If it’s significantly less than this would be a very compelling argument, especially for precision retro games.

Hey hammle. Sorry i intended to respond yesterday. The asnwer to your question. Is absolutely not. This is my thread why viewtopic.php?f=4&t=14381 im confused anyone still uses them tofay. Maybe the praise online about plasmas applies to some studio grade displays. Not to your average tv. Im only ever in confusion what the praise about colors is about.
The qn90d might not even cross 50watts of consumption. Maybe even 15watts while strobed with brightness at 40nits. While any plasma will draw 500 to 600watts. You mention € cost so i presume this will be very relevant info to you.
You are going to be better off with an oled if the convo with jim doesn't pan out. Not sure.what you meant by 4mrpt oled that you mentioned in later posts; since it doesn't seem like you meant a 4k 240hz monitor.

Just want to make you guys aware. The qn90f does seem to reach 500fps (maybe 480fps/8x effective. 600hz covered by double image) clarity in this picture by rtings. It is much darker than their qn90d picture. So everything jim posted seems correct. Maybe they could do more pictures with different brightnesses someday

I think the RTINGS test is made at 2000pixel/sec, therefore it is really hard for a display to get it perfect,
it would need to be ~0.5ms MPRT.
My estimation is that the brighter QN90D test is a bit over 2ms MPRT (480hz sample & hold OLED test look slightly clearer), but that darker QN90F test is noticeably under 2ms MPRT. I would consider that test picture to be "near perfect", I'd have a hard time eye-tracking beyond that level.

I don't know if the QN90D was tested at full brightness and the QN90F was tested when calibrate for dark room SDR. Not to mention, on the QN90D outside Game Mode, BFI is capped at a much lower brightness, which leads me to favor interpolation + lower brightness/pulse width trick instead. Many things that we now know about Samsung LCDs can explain the brightness/clarity discrepancies between their RTINGS BFI picture tests.

In any case, the QN90D is badass because at Game Mode BFI max brightness, the motion clarity is already better than GX/CX or Plasmas, with enough brightness left for >HDR400.
If you want to go even beyond, the closest to CRT currently possible on a TV, you have to be OK with being limited to dark room SDR brightness. But it's already nearly 3 times clearer than the CX/GX Motion Pro High at the same brightness...
Of course it's ok to "deduct points" due to LCD artifacts that affect motion: some have more ghosting than others, KSF phosphor trails bother me on my PG27AQN,...
So if they gave us a rolling-scan OLED that does ~3ms MPRT at 60hz, then I guess some people would prefer that over a ~1.5ms LCD...
I really truly want both.

Sadly though, we got robbed of that and I believe that manufacturers will start competing on low-lag interpolation instead.
Curious to see that as of right now Samsung is the only player in town, both for low-lag interpolation and LCD strobing.
Can't wait for LG to get with the program so we have some competition.

Since we're bringing back BFI picture test, I think it's a good thing to put into perspective a few relevant shots in order from blurriest to clearest (QN90D probably matches the QN90F when brightness is lowered):
-LG G1 OLED (60hz Motion Pro High - 158hz equivalent)
-LG GX OLED (60hz Motion Pro High - 240hz equivalent)
-QN90D (60hz LED Motion w/ high brightness)
-PG27AQN OLED (480hz sample and hold)
-XL2586X LCD (540hz sample and hold)
-QN90F (60hz LED Motion w/ low brightness)

Edit: it's hard to tell that the QN90D is noticeably better than the GX, but when you compare the QN90D using the picture from the old test protocol using web archive, you can easily tell, and you can find these in the early posts on this tread.

Edit: I have dropped a comment on the RTINGS review page for the 8K QN900D and QN900F, and the top-tier 4K QN95D asking if the 120hz brightness trick works.
Hopefully some of the users have their TVs connected to a PC and are able to a bit of testing on TestUFO so we can get a definitive answer.

Edit 2: A RTINGS rep replied to my inquiry on the 2025 8K model QN990F and said that, yes, the 120hz pulse-width control BFI trick works on other Samsung LCDs.

Which means that depending on your priorities, the QN95D might be more desirable:
It is very close to the QN90D, the QN95D basically has more dimming zones and slightly better color, while the QN90D has a bit more brightness and therefore more potential for BFI. Although the QN90D has lower Game HDR brightness, it can apparently be offset by toggling on Game HDR Advance, which I'm not sure is available on other models. Not sure how it affects picture accuracy but it seems there are solutions to the dimmer HDR in Game Mode.

The 8K QN900D is also interesting, it performs mostly worse than the 4K models accross the board but you gain access to potential integer scaling of 480p and 1440p resolutions on top of the usual 720p and 1080p, which is a plus for a true CRT replacement.
Still turned off by the 2025 models with matte coating, but performance wise they all trade blows between each other.