Asus XG27AQDMG Discussion

[RealNC]

Had issues with uploading the JXR file, common upload sites do not work and it is too big to attach on forum post, I can email or DM somewhere if you'd like.

If you use SpecialK, you can take screenshots in AVIF format. Set it to quality 65 (ctrl+click on the slider to be able to enter that number.)

SKAVIF.png (107.95 KiB) Viewed 3326 times

AVIF HDR screenshots are very small (like 1MB or so.)

[dan_alexandre]

Had issues with uploading the JXR file, common upload sites do not work and it is too big to attach on forum post, I can email or DM somewhere if you'd like.

If you use SpecialK, you can take screenshots in AVIF format. Set it to quality 65 (ctrl+click on the slider to be able to enter that number.)


SKAVIF.png


AVIF HDR screenshots are very small (like 1MB or so.)

Thanks, this is good to know, I do use Special K for FFXVI, alas while ingame I see the noise, in the screenshot I do not. Tried different compression and even saving JXR to no avail. The Tekken 8 JXR shows some but less prominent as well than ingame. Don't know why, perhaps just the photos application likely handles it differently than the game.

Edit:
Had some troubles with uploading, lets see if this one works:
https://postimg.cc/CR4dPVtw

It did not convert to jpg unlike another platform i tried, downloading it and viewing on photos app worked good for me.

[WDeranged]

I also see noise when using 6-bit dither. It looks a little bit like film grain in very low luminance areas. OLED does this anyway but it becomes far more apparent with the dither.

[_zebracrossing666]

Can someone post their SDR settings on their OSD please? I have set the User mode to 100-100-100 RGB, and I'm using novideo_srgb for the clamp. The colour temp is way too yellow and shadow detail is lost, even when I set it to 6500K instead(ik it's not exactly 6500K)

Here is a comparison between my User mode and the sRGB cal mode(I disabled sRGB clamp before switching), both 100 brightness.
https://imgsli.com/MzUxMDU2

sRGB cal mode, even though it locks out a lot of settings, looks much better. Colour temp seems better and shadow detail is better

[Shifroval]

Can someone post their SDR settings on their OSD please? I have set the User mode to 100-100-100 RGB, and I'm using novideo_srgb for the clamp. The colour temp is way too yellow and shadow detail is lost, even when I set it to 6500K instead(ik it's not exactly 6500K)

Here is a comparison between my User mode and the sRGB cal mode(I disabled sRGB clamp before switching), both 100 brightness.
https://imgsli.com/MzUxMDU2

sRGB cal mode, even though it locks out a lot of settings, looks much better. Colour temp seems better and shadow detail is better

Srgb mode still has a black crush, unfortunately. It can't pass lagom black test, but novideo solution does pass it. The point is the higher your contrast and brightness settings, the more squares you're going to see even with novideo override applied (but you may personally dislike too much brightness, it's purely personal preference). Mind you, if you can see square 4, it's already a very good result. I can faintly see up to square 3 and a bit of 2 if I stare long enough. Btw, novideo solutuon works for me only if I set it to use icc profile, not edid primaries. You can get a calibrated profile from rtings.
Here's what settings I use.

Brightness 25
Uniform brightness ON
Contrast 80
Vividpixel 50 (default, actually)
Wide gamut (otherwise novideo has no effect)
Saturation 53
Gamma 2.2
Temps:
R 75
G 70
B 77

I like all my displays (phone including) more cold and blueish, so you can use these numbers as a baseline and then tweak them to what suits your eyes or room lighting.

[_zebracrossing666]

Can someone post their SDR settings on their OSD please? I have set the User mode to 100-100-100 RGB, and I'm using novideo_srgb for the clamp. The colour temp is way too yellow and shadow detail is lost, even when I set it to 6500K instead(ik it's not exactly 6500K)

Here is a comparison between my User mode and the sRGB cal mode(I disabled sRGB clamp before switching), both 100 brightness.
https://imgsli.com/MzUxMDU2

sRGB cal mode, even though it locks out a lot of settings, looks much better. Colour temp seems better and shadow detail is better

Srgb mode still has a black crush, unfortunately. It can't pass lagom black test, but novideo solution does pass it. The point is the higher your contrast and brightness settings, the more squares you're going to see even with novideo override applied (but you may personally dislike too much brightness, it's purely personal preference). Mind you, if you can see square 4, it's already a very good result. I can faintly see up to square 3 and a bit of 2 if I stare long enough. Btw, novideo solutuon works for me only if I set it to use icc profile, not edid primaries. You can get a calibrated profile from rtings.
Here's what settings I use.

Brightness 25
Uniform brightness ON
Contrast 80
Vividpixel 50 (default, actually)
Wide gamut (otherwise novideo has no effect)
Saturation 53
Gamma 2.2
Temps:
R 75
G 70
B 77

I like all my displays (phone including) more cold and blueish, so you can use these numbers as a baseline and then tweak them to what suits your eyes or room lighting.

Nevermind, forgot I turned on Shadow Boost to 3 when I was playing a game! And switching to sRGB cal removed shadow boost, silly me.

Why are you colour temps so low in general though? Lowest I have seen was putting G at 96 and B at 95

edit: Also I tried using an ICC profile for the sRGB clamp, but it adds this horrible cloudy filter over everything. For some reason enabling EDID primaries instead clamps the colours to sRGB without the cloudy filter. Idk how it doesn't work for you, when I enable the EDID primaries, I can notice colours are no longer in Wide Gamut and look less saturated

[_zebracrossing666]

Not sure why I didn't try this at first, but it's simply the vertical total that matters. Nothing else. Lower VT by 5 in "manual" settings mode, until it stops flickering in VRR.

That's about it, it seems

Are you still using this method for VRR, RealNC?

I tried it and got the VT line to 1535 before the flickering stopped in that github test. There was noticeable screen tearing at 1440p 240hz in Cyberpunk with no VRR, no vsync enabled. It also felt slightly juddery but not too bad. After doing this method the motion is noticeably smoother and screen tearing is gone, and the refresh rate does fluctuate on the OSD.

Does this do anything for the gamma shift issue with black levels being raised when the monitor is at a low refresh rate? The novideo_srgb dithering certainly has helped the posterisation in dark shades.

edit: Tested couple of games with the RTSS frame limiter toggle to switch between 60fps and 240/unlocked. Unless I'm doing something wrong, I genuinely didn't notice a single difference in how shadows and dark areas looked switching between 60fps and 240fps. It was also switching on my monitor OSD. And I was playing dark games like Ori and the will of the wisps and RDR2 at night.

[RealNC]

Not sure why I didn't try this at first, but it's simply the vertical total that matters. Nothing else. Lower VT by 5 in "manual" settings mode, until it stops flickering in VRR.

That's about it, it seems

Are you still using this method for VRR, RealNC?

No. As mentioned in later posts, it turns out this tweak doesn't fix VRR flicker. It instead prevents VRR from working, which is why the flicker is gone. It also produces duplicate frames (which is the opposite of frame skipping.)

The 180Hz mode of this display does that out of the box.

[_zebracrossing666]

Not sure why I didn't try this at first, but it's simply the vertical total that matters. Nothing else. Lower VT by 5 in "manual" settings mode, until it stops flickering in VRR.

That's about it, it seems

Are you still using this method for VRR, RealNC?

No. As mentioned in later posts, it turns out this tweak doesn't fix VRR flicker. It instead prevents VRR from working, which is why the flicker is gone. It also produces duplicate frames (which is the opposite of frame skipping.)

The 180Hz mode of this display does that out of the box.

How does it prevent VRR from working if it's removing screen tearing from Cyberpunk? There was noticeable tearing on neon lights when moving the camera, but now it is smooth. So it's not subjective. Unless that's due to me also enabling Vsync in Nvidia app along with Gsync, but the latency was good and my fps around 80-90, far below 240hz(if the method is having zero effect, and I thought Vsync only prevented tearing at fps above max refresh rate?)

[Shifroval]

Why are you colour temps so low in general though? Lowest I have seen was putting G at 96 and B at 95

Low? I can't say, last time I touched them was long time ago, I guess I liked these values? Bigger numbers look more 'bright' to my eyes, and I don't like bright displays, apart from hdr mode in games, it's one story when you're gaming (dynamic picture with bright and dark scenes) and another when sitting at desktop and reading text. Just for the sake of it I upped them to 95/90/97. That completely destroyed white balance, so white became more yellow. As I said I like more bluish whites, and these numbers provide the white that I like. Iirc last time I was fiddling with rgb I saw some sort of dependecy, like when one of the colors exceeds a specific value (with other two upped accordingly), the display suddenly changes overall color temperature and becomes more red/green/blue. For example when I set 78 it's 'ok', but when I set 79 it becomes more of that color. But when I lower to 76 it's not that apparent. I'm no color expert and just assume all of this completely from a layman's point of view.

edit: Also I tried using an ICC profile for the sRGB clamp, but it adds this horrible cloudy filter over everything. For some reason enabling EDID primaries instead clamps the colours to sRGB without the cloudy filter. Idk how it doesn't work for you, when I enable the EDID primaries, I can notice colours are no longer in Wide Gamut and look less saturated

Edid primaries change all other colors, but do not fix the black crush. Just checked it again. Opened a colorful picture and switched to primaries. Some colors indeed became more tame and less saturated, but lagom black test still shows only the lowest row.
And btw it's not a filter, nor it's cloudy. Novideo can't produce such things, it only applied the values set in the profile on the driver level.
If you looked at your crushed deep blacks long enough you start taking them at face value, like that's how it looks. But when black levels suddenly become more distinguishable, of course your brain resists that and you see a duller picture. Purely a psychological thing.
The only correct answer to this is to put another correctly calibrated display (without black crush problems) near this one and see the difference. Other colors still look bright and vivid enough for me.