Input lag disappears for ~30 seconds when plug OR unplug any USB.

[DMNCS]

UPDATE: The temp fix that helped me the most was plugging the air conditioning in the same power strip as my PC and monitor and leaving it on. I noticed approximately 70% improvement and it reaches 100% only for the first 10 seconds when I turn on the AC. I'm not sure why it helps but I guess for the same reason the clothing iron helps?

[bleya99]

UPDATE: The temp fix that helped me the most was plugging the air conditioning in the same power strip as my PC and monitor and leaving it on. I noticed approximately 70% improvement and it reaches 100% only for the first 10 seconds when I turn on the AC. I'm not sure why it helps but I guess for the same reason the clothing iron helps?

Hey DMNCS,

Thanks for your contributions to the community.

Could you please join a workshop map in cs 2, and tell me if you feel any difference from the Deathmatch/Premier Mode?

In case you don't play cs2, I can guide you (very simple) but this is the only testing method that I know of that is instantenous.

My gameplay on deathmatch is nowhere close to a workshop map (0% packet loss (occasional 0.4% but that's from Valve)), 15 ping. (yes im aware there is 0 ping on workshop)

Just the smoothness itself, felt like i was playing on true 144 hz (it almost felt as going big from 60hz->144hz, but I would say it's more like 60hz->120hz), compared to what I have on deathmatch servers.

This "test" can be tried by anyone who has slow camera while dying.

Feel free to test this, and report back, thanks

[DMNCS]

UPDATE: The temp fix that helped me the most was plugging the air conditioning in the same power strip as my PC and monitor and leaving it on. I noticed approximately 70% improvement and it reaches 100% only for the first 10 seconds when I turn on the AC. I'm not sure why it helps but I guess for the same reason the clothing iron helps?

Hey DMNCS,

Thanks for your contributions to the community.

Could you please join a workshop map in cs 2, and tell me if you feel any difference from the Deathmatch/Premier Mode?

In case you don't play cs2, I can guide you (very simple) but this is the only testing method that I know of that is instantenous.

My gameplay on deathmatch is nowhere close to a workshop map (0% packet loss (occasional 0.4% but that's from Valve)), 15 ping. (yes im aware there is 0 ping on workshop)

Just the smoothness itself, felt like i was playing on true 144 hz (it almost felt as going big from 60hz->144hz, but I would say it's more like 60hz->120hz), compared to what I have on deathmatch servers.

This "test" can be tried by anyone who has slow camera while dying.

Feel free to test this, and report back, thanks

Hey brother, I can't tell much difference online and offline. When I warm up with bots they are a bit faster to die offline, on DM everything feels just a bit delayed even with good ping. You can guide me what exactly do you want me to test

[DMNCS]

UPDATE: Hopefully the last one I have finally fixed it. It was actually caused by my routers power supply - it was faulty and it was injecting EMI into my power grid, when I tried with ethernet unplugged I still had issues, after replacing the routers power supply with another one, everything is perfect

[kyube]

UPDATE: Hopefully the last one I have finally fixed it. It was actually caused by my routers power supply - it was faulty and it was injecting EMI into my power grid, when I tried with ethernet unplugged I still had issues, after replacing the routers power supply with another one, everything is perfect

Which specific router do you have and what power supply have you swapped to?

[TN_fun]

UPDATE: Hopefully the last one I have finally fixed it. It was actually caused by my routers power supply - it was faulty and it was injecting EMI into my power grid, when I tried with ethernet unplugged I still had issues, after replacing the routers power supply with another one, everything is perfect

ok. come back in a few days or a week with a message - input lag has returned.

[DMNCS]

UPDATE: Hopefully the last one I have finally fixed it. It was actually caused by my routers power supply - it was faulty and it was injecting EMI into my power grid, when I tried with ethernet unplugged I still had issues, after replacing the routers power supply with another one, everything is perfect

Which specific router do you have and what power supply have you swapped to?

I have Huawei HG8145X6-6Te, I have 2 switching power supplies that came with the ISP, one for router and one for TV box, changing them after a while makes lag disappear but it slowly comes back, I tested for a full day without it and it was perfect the entire time, so I'm 100% sure it's the cause. Switching power supplies are known to leak EMI. I ordered IFI iPower2 and will give final update after 10 days for example that everything is fine.

I couldn't figure this earlier for multiple reasons - when I unplugged ethernet cable the lag was still there, so I immediately discarded possibility that it's router related. When turning off every breaker in the apartment I always left the router one which was in the living room, the cables were routed there so I couldn't put it in the same room as the PC.

Another weird observation that lead to this discovery is that the router's power supply was in the same power strip as the TV, TV Box and some generic standing lamp. When I put the router in a power strip where it's alone the floaty mouse was completely gone, the screen was not smooth still and there was desync, but the floaty mouse isn't coming back when it's alone without other devices. The fact that the floaty mouse isn't coming back and that everything is 100% perfect when that single thing is unplugged makes me sure it's the sole reason for years of problems, I'm not sure if anything in my apartments wiring and stuff like that contributed to it tho.

[ProGrueso]

You can think of it almost like a "safe" deserted island. Everything connected to the isolation transformer is behind a firewall of sorts that the interference can't get to. I can even introduce the interference onto this so-called deserted island by taking a device (let's use a TV as an example, if I plugged that TV directly into one of my wall outlets with dirty power and then ran an HDMI cable from the TV to my PC setup that is on the "safe" deserted island of the isolation transformer, that floaty feeling immediately comes back because I am creating an electrical link back to dirty power via that HDMI connection).

So basically everything in your chain in your PC setup has to be running on the isolation transformer and nothing can lead back to a power outlet or source that isn't protected by the isolation transformer. Hence why I got a isolation transformer with a decent wattage 1800W+ so I could run all my devices through it. My setup is like this: Isolation Transformer -> output to 2 10-outlet PDU power distribution strips (basically plain ole' dumb power bars that do not have surge protection) -> these 20 outlets feed all my devices (two PC towers, triple monitor setup, 50 inch TV, speakers/sub, audio amplifiers and so on). Anything that has any sort of electrical connection to my setup all has to run on the "safe island" if that makes sense.

Can you post some of your gameplay?. Yeah I agree those prices are off the charts. But if this is what it takes... i guess we don't have an option.
What I have tried so far and has make a difference (And i mean no more rubberbanding or floaty mouse but still no good reg and insta dying, ferrari peaked) is fixing all of the power leaks around the house like: Line/Neutral reversed, No grounding in water pumps or outlets or lights, and so on. What I have learned is that dirty electricity means: Electricity jumping from one circuit to another. Either it could be ones own power leak or a neighrbor's. So it gets pretty hard to fix if it comes from outside.
Electricity tries to go back to its sourse and does what ever it takes to accomplish it. It doesn't matter if it gets into ground cable or neutral or concrete or beam or a rod. It will fight for returning no matter what and by doing so it causes a mess. If we could only see electricity as it moves... this will be so easy.

[Slender]

Can you post some of your gameplay?. Yeah I agree those prices are off the charts. But if this is what it takes... i guess we don't have an option.
What I have tried so far and has make a difference (And i mean no more rubberbanding or floaty mouse but still no good reg and insta dying, ferrari peaked) is fixing all of the power leaks around the house like: Line/Neutral reversed, No grounding in water pumps or outlets or lights, and so on. What I have learned is that dirty electricity means: Electricity jumping from one circuit to another. Either it could be ones own power leak or a neighrbor's. So it gets pretty hard to fix if it comes from outside.
Electricity tries to go back to its sourse and does what ever it takes to accomplish it. It doesn't matter if it gets into ground cable or neutral or concrete or beam or a rod. It will fight for returning no matter what and by doing so it causes a mess. If we could only see electricity as it moves... this will be so easy.

you explain my mind

[NIDAKOVIC 23]

Hello friends, I want to explain to you what kind of problem I am currently in, and if perhaps the majority will not understand, who has never had this problem or encountered such a problem.

- The problem itself is very deep and I have not solved it to this day. It all started when I moved into an apartment 10 years ago. The building I live in seems to be in a very bad condition as far as the electricity itself is concerned. In general, I never had power cuts, blackouts or similar, but the problem was reflected in a much bigger and deeper problem regarding the computer itself.

Back in 2017, the game Fortnite came out, I remember then I didn't have a particularly powerful computer, I remember it was the following configuration = AMD Athlon 860k, 8GB 3200mhz, Gigabyte GTX 1050 Ti 4GB. The computer itself was not that bad, it could play 99% of the titles without problems in 60 frames. It all started when I noticed that the game always behaved differently in the intervals, during the day it was so bad that it was impossible to play, and I don't think it was as big a problem as it is today. I turn on the game, go in with my friends to play, and then I notice the first strange symptoms, how the mouse behaves strangely when targeting opponents, it even happened when I was editing that the input didn't register my clicks or anything, as if it got executed when I was spamming edit, I can't describe it any other way. That's when I first started to take an interest in solving that problem, which in the end I didn't even solve.

Regarding the peripherals I used were Keyboard: Scorpion K20, Mouse: Bloody V7M. I thought that the problem was in the Mouse and Keyboard itself because they were not really hardcore for competition at that time. All in all, I'll get straight to the point so I don't read this post until tomorrow. I bought a new computer after that and the configuration was as follows. Ryzen 5 2600x, 2060 Super, 16GB 3200mhz 2x8 KIT. I had excellent FPS and it was a very big jump in terms of gaming performance compared to my old computer which pushed around 100 frames back then even if I was playing on a 60hz monitor. The same thing started to happen, Mass delay during the day, much better in the evening but not as much as it should work. At first I suspected that the problem was in the mouse sensor, so I bought the best mouse I could get at the time, which was the Logitech G PRO Wireless. The mouse arrived, I connected it and it was absolutely the same thing, the more I think it worked on the desktop in games, the movement aiming was bad, I was so tired that I couldn't live at that moment. I paid a lot of money at that time on my side thinking that I would solve that problem, in the end it turns out that the problem is not even the Mouse itself.

After some time I decided to buy a mechanical keyboard which was a Red Dragon, I'm not sure which one but I know it was around 70 euro. It was also my first mechanical keyboard that I had until now, before that I always used a membrane one and I can say that I felt quite a big difference in terms of playing, but again there was a delay on one side that I couldn't solve at all. Every time I looked on the Internet for what could be the cause, so I read about the optimization of Windows and the operating system itself, how the problem could be a bad power supply and all sorts of things. That's when I started to be more interested in everything and to delve deeper into the problem that I still struggle with today on a computer that costs much, much more. I currently have a Ryzen 7 7800x3d, RTX 4070 Ti, 32GB 2x16 DDR5 6800mhz, I set it to 6000mhz because it's safer in the bios. Board is AORUS B850 Elite, Power supply: Be Quiet 1000W Straight Power 12, SSD: Samsung 990 Pro 2TB, Mouse is: Logitech G PRO Superlight 2, Keyboard: Apex Pro Mini. I have an excellent computer, the whole windows is debloatan, I have about 40 processes in the background that relieves the entire CPU that has nothing to do and performs in the background while I play any game. I tried everything, I changed the mouse, the keyboard, I had 2 to 3 computers, monitors from 60hz to 240hz, extension cables, everything and everything that was possible was done on my part, but the problem was always present, and now the situation is even worse with the new computer, where the game works so badly that it is impossible to play. I have 360 fps lock, I don't have any drops, freezes and the like, but the problem with the miss delay and the complete imput is still present.

I have optical internet MTS: 1000/1000. I bought a 1500w AVR because I heard on a post on reddit that some people also have a problem with this kind of thing and say that the problem is in the electricity and that it can't be solved unless I buy a new apartment or house with a new installation that doesn't have that problem. When I took the AVR, I felt that the delay of the mouse disappeared, which 99% confirms that the external factor is more precisely the current and not the hardware itself. I decided to take the computer to a friend who lives a little further from me in a populated area in the house. I connected everything there and the problem was 100% solved, I still couldn't believe what was happening at that moment. I am returning home with the hope that there is still a possibility to solve that problem, but unfortunately it has not been solved to this day.

I did my best to solve the problem, but obviously it's not possible to just move, if anyone has similar experiences, feel free to write in the comments, I'll read everything, I apologize for writing a novel, I couldn't explain everything briefly, Along the way, I talked to some people who deal with IT and hardware and they confirmed that there could be a problem with the installations because it is an old building and nothing has been changed in my apartment regarding electricity since I came here to live. It is impossible to change 3 4 computers and everything and the problem is always present. And that the problem is not only in fortnite, but also in all other fast titles such as CS2, Valorant, Apex and so on, everywhere everything behaves strangely, the delay is abnormal and it is not possible to play at a higher level. thank you for your understanding :/

---------------------------------------- [ Junction box with fuses ] --------------------------------------------